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1G 1st gear 20 psi something poped

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AWDTSI153

Probationary Member
20
0
Feb 12, 2006
Lucas, Ohio
hi everyone the other night i was in 1st gear hit 20 psi and there was a pop almost like an intercooler pipe came off but pipes are fine. The car will not idle with the 2G mas plugged in but idles fine when unplugged. the car still won't drive just puts alot of white smoke out the tailpipe. It looks like oil is leaking but I can't tell where from. Just put on ARP headstuds, cometic head gasket, reman head, new timing assembly, and 2G mas. A little oil leaks out of the valve cover gasket but the shop said it was because of a boost leak. I have no idea what it could be but if not fixed soon the car is gone. Thanx for any help.
 
I would double check your intercooler pipes. You may wanna try a new mas sensor as well . I had the same problem that the car would run with it unplugged then not run when plugged in.
 
sounds similar to what happened to a friend, he did a first gear burnout we heard something pop towards the end and his car ran like crap. it ended up being a blown turbo. that would explain the oil and coolant but not the mas symptoms
 
20psi..and unless your car profile is wrong, you have no fuel mods. I would suggest turning your boost down once you get your problem solved. I'd recommend starting with a compression test.
 
thanx for all the suggestions and i had just put a manual boost controller on so no i didn't know it was set at 20 it was the first test run. Funny how u automatically think i'm a kid because i was running 20 psi, how about just trying to help and u can keep the little degrading comments to yourself. (Defiant) Thanx to everyone else for the help but i'm pretty sure i bent the valves so time to rebuild the head i guess. And yes my profile is outdated i recently added a walbro and 550 cc injectors. I will know more when i pull the head, but what do i know i'm just a dumb kid right?
 
thanx for all the suggestions and i had just put a manual boost controller on so no i didn't know it was set at 20 it was the first test run. Funny how u automatically think i'm a kid because i was running 20 psi, how about just trying to help and u can keep the little degrading comments to yourself. (Defiant) Thanx to everyone else for the help but i'm pretty sure i bent the valves so time to rebuild the head i guess. And yes my profile is outdated i recently added a walbro and 550 cc injectors. I will know more when i pull the head, but what do i know i'm just a dumb kid right?
Way to back talk to the Site Excutioner! For the record Defiant is like 50, so we all are kids to him. And he made a very valid point.

20psi + stock HG + stock head studs = Bye Bye HG.

Thus, the white smoke. Oh, and loose the 550's until you get something to tune them with. You are making your car run like poo.
 
hmmmm yea i'm gona run 20psi on a stock hg and studs. Cometic HG + ARP studs one month old, not stock. Not trying to be disrespectful to Defiant but if someone posts a comment degrading me when i'm just looking for help then yea i will say something. I feel that nobody should be talked down to, regardless of age or website status. I could be 100 and the best Mitsu tech ever and I still would never tell someone how to drive their car, but thats just me. Now to architechnik, thanx for the help. No it wasn't showing lean when it popped if anything a little rich. But yea I do need an AFC but I was running really rich before the 2G mas. When I put it on it seemed to balance it out pretty well. I checked out the turbo and the shaft spins freely and all the blades are still in good shape. All IC pipes are good too. Thanx everyone for the help.
 
Either way I know Defiants intentions were good but if I feel someone is talking down to me I would say the same thing. Thanx for the advice laserspeeddemon but this is not my daily driver so why would i take them off. Just looking for help on what went wrong not looking for your advice on my mods.
 
thanx for all the suggestions and i had just put a manual boost controller on so no i didn't know it was set at 20 it was the first test run. Funny how u automatically think i'm a kid because i was running 20 psi, how about just trying to help and u can keep the little degrading comments to yourself. (Defiant) Thanx to everyone else for the help but i'm pretty sure i bent the valves so time to rebuild the head i guess. And yes my profile is outdated i recently added a walbro and 550 cc injectors. I will know more when i pull the head, but what do i know i'm just a dumb kid right?

I'd figure you're a kid for using "u" instead of "you", but is that really where you'd like to take this? My comment was meant for the youngsters who'd be reading this after you and I are done with this thread. The only degradation I'd seen going on here was a blown-up car.

It's a mean world out there, you may want to toughen-up a bit.

And work on that grammar when you're on this site.
 

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Well I would say like quite a bit of people said... recheck piping, make sure your mas is still good, turn down your boost a little like maybe 18 at max for now, and do a thorough boost leak test. I however somewhat doubt it has anything to do with the mas. I think it sounds more like a pipe just blew. So that boost leak check would really help you find the problem. Good luck with finding your problem!
 
I wasn't recommending you take them off because it's a DD. I recommended this because you car is gonna run like crap, regardless of how often the car is driven. If you had a Cometic HG and ARP Head Studs listed in your profile under Engine Internals, instead of " HKS turbo timer, HKS EVC boost controller, MSD 8.5 mm wires and NGK plugs, FMIC" I wouldn't had made the comment. Now with that said, it would've been smart for me to payed close attention to the orginal post where you commented that you had upgraded these parts.

Regardless of those parts, you still are getting water in the cylinders. Thats why you have white smoke. A new HG that was installed incorrectly, the wrong head gasket, or a head that wasn't installed in proper sequence could still let some coolant by. You should do a compression test followed by a leak down test to determine where the failure is.
 
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