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[RESOLVED] Fried coil for 1 and 4 (extremly low idle issue)

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voodoogsx

20+ Year Contributor
334
23
Jun 2, 2004
Sherman Oaks, California
Let me start with that I had this issue about 2 weeks ago and thought that I had solved it.

The issue:
I was driving home a couple weeks back and was at a stop light. The light changed and I acceled as normal but as I was going I heard what appeared to be a backfire(that was a first). It happened once or twice when I pushed the rpms up to around 4500, so I kept it under that range till I got home. I parked the car and let it ilde, nothing seemed odd. I later went to a friends house and the same thing occured...just once. I figure if it's only like that when I hit high rpms, I can drive it to work no prob, just drive on low rpms. Yeah, slap me a coulpe times for thinking that was a smart move.
Next day I'm heading in and I start going up "the hill", I start noticing the backfiring a bit more and at lower rpms. It starts getting really bad so I pull over and check the idle, seems to be a bit jumpy. I can't make it up the hill, I've lost a lot of power somehow. I'm able turn around and start heading back home, but now It's getting the backfiring more often and rpms are getting jumpy at 1.5-2k while just coasting down the hill. I manage to drive a few blocks more and get off of main streets. At this point the car is sputtering and almost all power is gone, I pull it onto a side street ,coast to a stop and watch the idle, it's hovering over 200rpms sputtering and spiking....wtf?

I get it towed and start working on finding out what the issue is. I first look for any vac leaks, I check all of the lines and don't find any issues. I check all of the piping, everything is secure, no cuts or anything on the connectors. I check all connections on the car, everything appears to be secure. I go to check the codes(I have dsmlink) and see random misfire
I start the car and it starts fine.....after warming up, idle starts going crazy,
I check the spark plugs, they're old so I replace those. I do a bit of reading on here and looks like it's either my coil pack or transistor. I have some cash for just such a time(dsm piggy bank)and buy the coil pack. nothing changes. I call a friend and borrow his transitor, problem seemes to be solved. I buy the power transistor and install it. car runs fine again. I check for any new codes, since I had pulled lot of stuff off, I note one, manifold differential pressure sensor malfunction. I pull the wire, for the mdps and reinsert it, just in case I might have bumped it. I check all other connections, clear the code and start up. everything is great again....I do however notice that there seems to be a subtle but still noticable increase in vibration at idle. I test it for the next couple days and weekend, with longer drives and harder pulls....the car feels great...mostly. The idle still bothers me, but I don't have any error codes and it's within the range that I had logged before.

I check the dtc's once again and note that the mdps error is on again....strange....I might have bumped it when I was putting the strut bar on, I fiddle with it again and clear the code. drive it again, no cels everything is fine.

Flash forward to yesterday. driving home, halfway point, I've been on the road for 20 mins so the car is warmed up. feels fine. Again at a light. I start to accell...and the car stuters, then I coast it to the side of the road. The idle is going crazy, but settles at just above 0.....it doesn't even look like it's getting a reading, just spiking to 100-300 rpm every couple of seconds.....I start smelling something, sort of sulfuric, but not quite sure....I try to see if the car can move, but when I hit the gas it's a slow rev, just doesn't want to go. At this point it's sounding like I've got motorcycle with the way the idle is goin. I've got my computer with me since I logged my drive to work that day...I should have logged it on the way back. Anyway, I look at the dtcs and note Random misfire detected and the MDP error again. I kill the engine and and wait a minute, then start it, it starts but still crazy idle. at least it starts. Another note, is that even with the low rpm, it doesn't die, it just hovers above a complete stall.

I kill the engine again and starting looking under the hood, I check all vac lines, sensors, everything that I can with a mini mag at night with a hot engine. I call a tow service and get the car towed. While waiting, I check the spark plug lines, the transistor and the coilpack, they are all secure and connections are on securly. I bust out the toolbox and make sure that the spark plugs are still in securly, they are. 2 hours later and I'm home. With the car in the driveway and now cool, I start it. Starts up fine, but a few mintues later as it warms up, the rpms start going crazy again....
I guess the first thing is to look at the mdp, but has anyone had this happen when their mdp has gone out, are there other things that I should check? EGR??
I tried to find info on the mdp, but there wasn't much in the way of issues related, just questions on blocking the egr and where the thing is located.

Anyway, things that I've changed so far that have wires connected.

The isc and fiav are less than a year old. I have a bored tb that's been on the car since February. As stated above, I changed out the spark plugs(NGKs got them at rre one day when I was getting other parts and had them gapped), the power transistor and coil packs. DSMlink. New starter.
EGT gauge(I checked that the temp sensor was still secure).

I installed a new stereo in the car about two weeks prior to having the first problem. When I had the rear seat out I fiddled with the fuel pump just to make sure it was secure and that all wires were okay. I didn't unplug anything though. I checked the grounds for the stereo and all were secure to the chasis. The amp that I installed has a fused hotwire directly to the battery. This was the last thing that I had done with the car prior to the issue coming up. I've checked the wiring, made sure that everything was wrapped and nothing exposed. I did this twice.

Any ideas or insight would be appreciated... :confused:
 
So last night I decide to see if I can get any insight into whats going on and also see how the engine is running when cool. I bring up dsmlink and fire up the engine. It starts and runs poorly, around 200rpm or thats what it looks to be registering. No codes are coming up. I let it run for a few minues longer and check the engine bay. I then notice some smoke coming from the area of the coilpack.... WTF I just changed that last weekend along with the power transistor!!!

I kill the engine and check the coil pack.....this is what I saw(pic from this morning)

I checked the resistance on the spark plug wires and they measured from 4.17 at 2k ohm reading to 2.68 with the shortest, the two others were between these. I haven't checked the power transistor yet, but I'll do that when I can pull it off. This is around $370 in parts if both got fried somehow.....What could have caused this.....any ideas????

:confused:
 

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Putting the wrong wires on the wrong terminals. I dont know how similar a 2g coil pack is.
Look on the classifieds, look on ebay, you'll be able to pick one up for $40-80 probably, Unless a 1g coil pack will work PM me.
 
Putting the wrong wires on the wrong terminals. I dont know how similar a 2g coil pack is.
Look on the classifieds, look on ebay, you'll be able to pick one up for $40-80 probably, Unless a 1g coil pack will work PM me.

I wish it was just crossing terminals, but I had the wires marked and verified they were correct. I'm not sure if a 1g coil pack would work, I've read a few things, but I think it depends on the year, time to go look...
 
The coil secondarys (where spark plug wires go) should be 11.3k - 15.3k ohms.

Hiya luv2ralley,
I looked up several of your posts as you have some great instructions for testing components so here are some things I looked at.


coil pack
so taking a look at the readings I got
==primary resistance
1/4 =1.0 ohm
2/3 =1.0 ohm
-- shouldn't this be 0.70 ti 0.80, and shouldn't this be like that for both? half my coil was working, why would it read the same?

==secondary resistance
4/1 = 13.2k ohms
2/3 = 13.3k ohms
-- looks to be within spec.

==Cas voltage from harness
pin 3 with the car key turned on
11 volts. this should be 12+, no?
with the radio on it dropped to 10.92

==Cas continutity check
Cas pin 1

key off
I was getting a reading of 0.7 ohms
with the key on I was getting a reading of 54.1 ohms. now I'm wondering if my multimeter is broken since I tested this with the setting of max 200 ohms. when I used the max 2k ohms the reading was 0.09. I would have thought it would have read 0.06 or 5

I wasn't able to test the pin 2 as I didnt have anyone able to look while the car was cranking.

==Transistor test
I tried this using a lightbulb as recommended in one of your posts.

when testing for 1/4 the light came on
when testing for 2/3 the light came on
One thing that I was curious about was that the light is very bright when connecting to the battery directly. when connecting through the transistor, it was not that bright, I would say basing the full brightness on a direct connection 10/10, I'd say the brightness through the transistor was about 3/10. This was for both. When I made the connection to the on pin(7 or 2)it took a second for the light to come on. again this was for both.

so I then connected the volt meter to check voltage from the light to the transitor pins(7 for 1/4 and 2 for 2/3 again) and noted that it was reading 10.96 volts. when I actually flipped the switch to make contact to either pin 7 or 2(depending on which transitor I was testing) the voltage dropped to 10.91.

included are images of the wiring that I did for the first bank.
 

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Your transistor diagram is correct but your transistor diagram with voltmeter is totally wrong. You don't measure voltage by putting the meter in series with a component (you also don't measure resistance in series with the circuit powered or you can blow your meter). Voltage is always measured from a point to ground (or occasionally across a component). The way you have it produces a meaningless value and makes the circuit not work properly. And for this PT test, voltage measurements are not needed and meaningless. The light on the PT test should be same brightness unless you had too high wattage a bulb or you had that voltmeter in there.

Your coils measure almost good (primaries out of spec) but the spark appears to be jumping to ground right there. This tells me you most likely have a grounding problem and/or bad spark plug cables (maybe also a bad coil but you say you already changed that). Replace your spark plug cables and check the ground cables from the battery negative to both the chassis and the engine to make sure they are not cracked, corroded, etc. and have clean tight connections. Chassis and engine should each have their own separate cable going straight to battery negative (engine usually goes to starter mounting bolt). Your radio sounds like it may have a wire connected to the wrong place also (disconnect ALL it's wires to see effect and while you're diagnosing this problem).
 
Your transistor diagram is correct but your transistor diagram with voltmeter is totally wrong. You don't measure voltage by putting the meter in series with a component (you also don't measure resistance in series with the circuit powered or you can blow your meter). Voltage is always measured from a point to ground (or occasionally across a component). The way you have it produces a meaningless value and makes the circuit not work properly. And for this PT test, voltage measurements are not needed and meaningless. The light on the PT test should be same brightness unless you had too high wattage a bulb or you had that voltmeter in there.
hopefully I didn't fry anything :(
Also. the brightness was very slight in difference. though I guess that could be the difference between spark/no spark. It's also new.... :mad:

Your coils measure almost good (primaries out of spec) but the spark appears to be jumping to ground right there. This tells me you most likely have a grounding problem and/or bad spark plug cables (maybe also a bad coil but you say you already changed that). Replace your spark plug cables and check the ground cables from the battery negative to both the chassis and the engine to make sure they are not cracked, corroded, etc. and have clean tight connections. Chassis and engine should each have their own separate cable going straight to battery negative (engine usually goes to starter mounting bolt). Your radio sounds like it may have a wire connected to the wrong place also (disconnect ALL it's wires to see effect and while you're diagnosing this problem).

I changed the coil and the new one was the one seen in the above pic(melted). It's also what I got the readings from.
Again, I find it odd that I would get very similar readings for the primary readings and yet only one side seems to not be working(even with the side that appears to have overheated). The cables are to me becoming suspect. So my question is would it be advisable to use some autozone wires for testing as I could get them by this weekend. I could always order some better set and have those after I know for certain that they are in part, the issue. I'll be checking all of the grounding this weekend or as much as I can as the car is not in the best location to work on since it was towed back to my place. :cry: (thank goodness for a backup car!)

I'll pull the radio this weekend as well. I didn't want to admit it, but it's my primary suspect right now....I was just certain that I had installed it correctly... :(

Thanks for your input!!
 
Again, I find it odd that I would get very similar readings for the primary readings and yet only one side seems to not be working(even with the side that appears to have overheated).
Primaries reading same is ok. If either of the 2 spark plug wires on the failing coil is bad (bad connection, too high impedance or open circuit), the spark will find another way to ground which will be exactly where yours did - right along the outside of the secondary coil insulator tower.
 
Primaries reading same is ok. If either of the 2 spark plug wires on the failing coil is bad (bad connection, too high impedance or open circuit), the spark will find another way to ground which will be exactly where yours did - right along the outside of the secondary coil insulator tower.

Something (most likely a short)drained the battery over the past week and weekend as I went out this morning and found it dead. I pulled the stero setup and amp, so we'll see if that had anything to do with it. I also tightned the ground wire to the alternator as it appeared to be loose, as well as tightened the bolts to some other ground wires that were...not as tight as they could be. I also inspected the ecu, visual looked okay....circuitry is always another story. there are a couple more ground lines I'll check, but other than that....I guess I should try plugging everything back in, sans the stereo and see if it fires up.

edit:
no go on removing the stero having any effect. I did however make another observation. the two overhead cabin lamps do not light up.
 
I did the cas test and everything checked out.
12 volts on the red, 0 ohms on the black and 4.96 volts on the signal
this went up and down when I had the engine cranking so that seems to be working.
I haven't checked the signal at the ecu though
I need to check the signal going to the coil. thats next

A couple of observations.
When I had the cas plugged in the rpms stayed at 300-400
when I unplugged the cas the rpms appeared to go up to 1100 but still sounded bad.

the internal lights in the cabin do not come on. I don't think they're burned out but I'll have to check them. all other lights appear to work. tail, head, blinkers, reverse

Another thing I noted, the coil for 1/4 was getting hot when the key was in the ignition and turned to acc. the transistor was not plugged in at this time.

I replaced the bad coil; the melted one. also tried another transistor...no luck.
 
Another thing I noted, the coil for 1/4 was getting hot when the key was in the ignition and turned to acc. the transistor was not plugged in at this time.
This is not good. One) power should not be there with key on acc and two) with the PT power transistor unplugged it opens the circuit on the non-power side of the coils. So even with the key to on, the coils should not be energized with the PT disconnected (you will still see +12V on the other side of the coils however).

I also noted on the diagrams that one coil goes to a engine speed detection connector (at center rear of engine compartment) as well as to it's PT. If this was shorted you would have major problems.
 
This is not good. One) power should not be there with key on acc and two) with the PT power transistor unplugged it opens the circuit on the non-power side of the coils. So even with the key to on, the coils should not be energized with the PT disconnected (you will still see +12V on the other side of the coils however).

I also noted on the diagrams that one coil goes to a engine speed detection connector (at center rear of engine compartment) as well as to it's PT. If this was shorted you would have major problems.

edit: I mispoke on this, the light did not go on with acc, it was only on when I turned the key past acc.
end edit

---
ugh....I'm not liking the sound of this.....I've looked at the diagram as well, I'm not sure where the connector would be or what it's attached to. I did a search on the board but couldn't find anything on it.
I could try to trace the wire , but i know that won't be fun.

Alright so here is soemthing, from the hanes manual, there is a test for the wire harness for the coil pack. I believe it's connecting a test light to the 1 pin side and connect the light to a pin on the 2 pin side. when starting I should get a pulse. Should I do this test and report back the findings?

edit2
I actually tried this and one of the terminals(the good one)did cause the test light to blink, the other terminal was just solid on.
The transistor was plugged in on this test.
end edit 2

A couple things that I noted from last night and the other day.
I had the battery pulled and followed some wires to check that connectors were still connected, I noted that my knock sensor had 1 wire broken at the connector. I think this might have been broken when I pulled the starter motor. THis is strange since I noticed knock readings on my datalogs. From what i've read also this is only one wire anyway....so what should it be?


Not sure if this will be of any use but here is some other info from last nights testing.
I was doing the short circuit testing based on this (L2R post).
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?p=1496998#post1496998

a couple of notes. I was using a test light as don't have an ammeter.
I had the ground connected and put the test light across the + post to the post connector
I pulled the ecu and the radio(which I did last week). with doors closed and got a dim light. I also noticed a slight pulsing.
I started pulling large fuses from the engine bay, first. the light stayed on with pulse. I pulled the small fuses with the same result. I pulled the radio fuses(the two attached with the yellow clip (I can include a pic if need be) and the pulsing stopped, but the light remained on. I haven't pulled the fusable links yet.

I then started pulling fuses from the inside cabin. I finally found a couple of fuses(pulled 2 at a time ) that killed the light.
based on the fusebox diagram from this post.
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=83209&highlight=fuse+cover
posting #10

I pulled fuse 9 and 10
I wasnt able to check which one it was yet.
not sure how sugnificant this is...
but thought I'd mention it

this is getting tiring..... :(
 
I actually tried this and one of the terminals(the good one)did cause the test light to blink, the other terminal was just solid on.
The transistor was plugged in on this test.

That means the PT for 1&4 (the other terminal) is not firing the coil. This can be due to a bad PT, bad ECU, or a wire may be broken/shorted somewhere on the 1 & 4 circuitry (ECU to PT to coil).

voodoogsx said:
I was doing the short circuit testing based on this (L2R post).
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?p=1496998#post1496998
a couple of notes. I was using a test light as don't have an ammeter.
I had the ground connected and put the test light across the + post to the post connector
I pulled the ecu and the radio(which I did last week). with doors closed and got a dim light. I also noticed a slight pulsing.
I started pulling large fuses from the engine bay, first. the light stayed on with pulse. I pulled the small fuses with the same result. I pulled the radio fuses(the two attached with the yellow clip (I can include a pic if need be) and the pulsing stopped, but the light remained on. I haven't pulled the fusable links yet.

I then started pulling fuses from the inside cabin. I finally found a couple of fuses(pulled 2 at a time ) that killed the light.
based on the fusebox diagram from this post.
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=83209&highlight=fuse+cover
posting #10

I pulled fuse 9 and 10
I wasnt able to check which one it was yet.
not sure how sugnificant this is...
but thought I'd mention it

this is getting tiring..... :(
Yep you've got a short (or something drawing power all the time). Probably where someone miswired up your radio which ended up on that fuse (you don't have a high power amp drawing power all the time do you?). Too many installers just find a +12V wire and connect to it which is often wrong (and hard to find cause it makes other things or the radio not work right). You should find/fix this short before the coil problem or you may get mislead fixing that (and you have to fix it anyway).

I'm impressed with your short finding technique. I can tell you followed my article closely (and read the entire thing - many don't). :thumb:
 
Looking into the engine speed adjustment connector, isn't this only on the 1g model? I only have cirguit diagrams for the 1g so I"m not certain.
Looking some info up I found this...but only for 1g.
http://members.shaw.ca/dsm.1000q/Engineprimer/1G/timingconn.htm

looking at and comparing both, I didn't see an identical connector for the 2g.
http://members.shaw.ca/dsm.1000q/Engineprimer/

just a thought...or is this a completely different thing
Engine speed adjustment connector is a completely different thing than the 2g's engine speed DETECTION connector. ROFL
 
That means the PT for 1&4 (the other terminal) is not firing the coil. This can be due to a bad PT, bad ECU, or a wire may be broken/shorted somewhere on the 1 & 4 circuitry (ECU to PT to coil).


Yep you've got a short. Probably where someone miswired up your radio which ended up on that fuse. Too many installers just find a +12V wire and connect to it which is often wrong (and hard to find cause it makes other things or the radio not work right). You should find/fix this short before the coil problem or you may get mislead fixing that (and you have to fix it anyway).
If you saw the wiring under the dash I think most people would have just walked away....it was a jumble of wires that had been cut, spliced, connected and rerouted.....it was ugly....I thought I found most of the issues and corrected them, but I may have caused more of an issue... :(


Alrighty, I"m in no way an expert in reading the schematics but let me ask you this,
if I don't have the PT and I still have the light come on, wouldn't that point to something else? Also if I don't have the ecu plugged in and still have the light on, that would again point to something other than those two items....correct? please tell me yes...

Just wondering cause looking at the schem, it looks like the transistor goes to the ground points, ie the ecu and the other wire goes to the asd. If the asd fails, might that cause this failure as well? I'm sure I'm grasping, but what the hell....

If everything points to the ecu, I'm sure it's not easy to really say, but is there a way to test the ecu without having to try and find another car? 95's appear to be hard to find and they have there damn unique differences.... :(

I've read the troubleshooting guide which mentions to check pin 10 and 23 and to check for a voltage reading that goes from .03 to 3 volts....but this is also at 3k rpm...not easy to do with the starter alone!! :(

I'm impressed with your short finding technique. I can tell you followed my article closely (and read the entire thing - many don't). :thumb:

when you are at the frustrated point I'm at....you make sure you do everything to the T!!:D

Thanks for your help so far on this.....your posts are awesome and I have actually looked through quite a few of them....I have a bookmark section with em :)
 
If you saw the wiring under the dash I think most people would have just walked away....it was a jumble of wires that had been cut, spliced, connected and rerouted.....it was ugly....

Can you guess how many times I've heard this?

voodoogsx said:
Alrighty, I"m in no way an expert in reading the schematics but let me ask you this,
if I don't have the PT and I still have the light come on, wouldn't that point to something else? Also if I don't have the ecu plugged in and still have the light on, that would again point to something other than those two items....correct? please tell me yes...

If you're talking about finding a short with the light in series with the battery post, yes. If you're talking about the light on the coil primary, no (light will get power through the coil which has power on the other side).

voodoogsx said:
Just wondering cause looking at the schem, it looks like the transistor goes to the ground points, ie the ecu and the other wire goes to the asd. If the asd fails, might that cause this failure as well? I'm sure I'm grasping, but what the hell....

asd? Only the NT has a asd relay. The coils get their power from the ignition switch. The ECU gets it's from the MPI relay (which also supplies most of the other engine stuff (but not the coils).

voodoogsx said:
If everything points to the ecu, I'm sure it's not easy to really say, but is there a way to test the ecu without having to try and find another car? 95's appear to be hard to find and they have there damn unique differences.... :(

There is no ECU test other than swapping. But you can try any 2g turbo ECU just for engine testing.

voodoogsx said:
I've read the troubleshooting guide which mentions to check pin 10 and 23 and to check for a voltage reading that goes from .03 to 3 volts....but this is also at 3k rpm...not easy to do with the starter alone!! :(

That's just the signal to the PT which you really need a scope to see. It would only go from 3V to 0 for a ms which you'd never see with a voltmeter. You'd probably just see 3V all the time (but you could at least make sure of that at the PT to show the wire's not broke).

voodoogsx said:
Thanks for your help so far on this.....your posts are awesome and I have actually looked through quite a few of them....I have a bookmark section with em :)

Wow thanks for the complement. I have a lot of knowledge and many years experience on cars electrical systems. So I enjoy helping those who don't have this knowledge but need it to solve difficult electrical problems on their dsm. The more difficult the electrical problem, the more I like it and I love the challenge.
 
Can you guess how many times I've heard this?
butchers....all I can say...

If you're talking about finding a short with the light in series with the battery post, yes. If you're talking about the light on the coil primary, no (light will get power through the coil which has power on the other side).
I was more of talking about the wire harness that goes to the coil. For what I've been looking for this turned out to be very important.

asd? Only the NT has a asd relay. The coils get their power from the ignition switch. The ECU gets it's from the MPI relay (which also supplies most of the other engine stuff (but not the coils).

ahh, I guess the hanes manual doesn't distinguish that in all cases....

There is no ECU test other than swapping. But you can try any 2g turbo ECU just for engine testing.
good to know for next time I ever run into an issue like this.

That's just the signal to the PT which you really need a scope to see. It would only go from 3V to 0 for a ms which you'd never see with a voltmeter. You'd probably just see 3V all the time (but you could at least make sure of that at the PT to show the wire's not broke).
that was my understanding which made this sort of test difficult to gauge if I would have done it....I was looking to get a portable scope to test this....

Wow thanks for the complement. I have a lot of knowledge and many years experience on cars electrical systems. So I enjoy helping those who don't have this knowledge but need it to solve difficult electrical problems on their dsm. The more difficult the electrical problem, the more I like it and I love the challenge.

Well your assistance was greatly appreciated and I wouldn't have been able to solve this without reading a lot of your postings....

I want to include that the test for the coil signal thats in the hanes manual was of great help. The one I'm speaking of is so brief that it could be overlooked, but it helped in my case. It was with using the test light to test the signal from the coil harness(what connects to the coil). This is the three pin connector from the car.

I tried what I had mentioned last night, I pulled the ecu out of the equation and tested the harness again. for wire 1 and 2, I got no light. This was as expected. when I tried wire 1 and 3, I got a light. I believe wire 1 is the + line and 2/3 are the ground lines.
I took out the transistor next and tried it.... same results....I pretty much concluded it was a wire connection from that point to the ecu and started looking. I confirmed that it was the red and blue wire and took a quick look to see if anything could be seen from the engine bay side...I pulled the battery...then I noticed something....after I pulled the battery holder...I found this....(see image below)

The battery holder had rubbed up against the big pack of wires and eventually got through...this caused the wire to ground out....

needless to say, I covered the wire, put the battery in , made sure nothing was touching that wire plugged everything in, and started the car......

shortly after I started listening to "we are the champions" by queen....it was one of those moments for me... :thumb:

after I'm done putting everything back together and find the short from the radio, I'll post a followup on that as well. :sneaky:
 

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I want to include that the test for the coil signal thats in the hanes manual was of great help. The one I'm speaking of is so brief that it could be overlooked, but it helped in my case. It was with using the test light to test the signal from the coil harness(what connects to the coil). This is the three pin connector from the car.

Yes that is a good one and very easy to do. No light however, can be many things: open in the coil primary (so no power), or bad PT (shorted or stuck on), or bad ECU (keeping PT on all the time), or PT to coil wire grounded (your case). So further testing is required but it does start you off in the proper direction to one of these.

when I tried wire 1 and 3, I got a light. I believe wire 1 is the + line and 2/3 are the ground lines.
I took out the transistor next and tried it.... same results....I pretty much concluded it was a wire connection from that point to the ecu and started looking. I confirmed that it was the red and blue wire

Wire 3 (black/white) is +12V. The other 2 are negative (not ground) lines as they go to the PT (which switches them to ground to energize the coil). If your blue/red (it's actually a blue with red stripe) wasn't shorted to ground, you would have the light on for all 3 (one to +12V and the other two through the coil primarys to +12V).

The wire you had the short to ground does not go to the ECU. It goes, are you ready for this, to the 1 pin Engine Speed Detection Connector (my post 13)! ROFL (From there it comes back to PT pin 8 as a black/white wire.)
 
Yes that is a good one and very easy to do. No light however, can be many things: open in the coil primary (so no power), or bad PT (shorted or stuck on), or bad ECU (keeping PT on all the time), or PT to coil wire grounded (your case). So further testing is required but it does start you off in the proper direction to one of these.

Yeah, the book mentions a couple of different scenarios...just glad it wasn't the ecu or the PT for that matter... :)

Wire 3 (black/white) is +12V. The other 2 are negative (not ground) lines as they go to the PT (which switches them to ground to energize the coil). If your blue/red (it's actually a blue with red stripe) wasn't shorted to ground, you would have the light on for all 3 (one to +12V and the other two through the coil primarys to +12V).

The wire you had the short to ground does not go to the ECU. It goes, are you ready for this, to the 1 pin Engine Speed Detection Connector (my post 13)! ROFL (From there it comes back to PT pin 8 as a black/white wire.)

Just when I thought I actually understood what I was looking at.... :D
 
my coil pack keeps melting and cracking iv gone through 3 now and i have no idea what is causing this to happen can anyone help me please it would be grately apperisheated
 
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