Need help with headbolt questionc asap please

[tsimom]

Long story will try to shorten. Had to change head gasket due to a bolt that fell into cylinder.Decided to use arp headbolts. Car is a 1996 awd tsi. When I tighten down the headbolts oil comes up through the bolts. Is that normal? What else could do this or am I missig something. Have to get this car together quick as Im have to move very soon.

 

[SonySlave]

This is actually very common and happens to most people. The reason for this is there was oil and/or coolant in the head bolt holes. Common practice is to blow out the headbolt holes with air or other products so that the holes are clean and dry. However, you are still ok...

All you need to do is:
1. Tighten down the head bolts a bit until the oil oozes out
2. Stop, and let the oil ooze, while wiping the oil up to keep the block surface clean
3. Tighten the headbolts down some more
4. If more oil comes out, repeat step 2 and 3, if not, tighten the headbolts as tight as possible with an allen tool and wait about an hour just to be sure there isn't anymore oil trapped inside
5. Loosen headbolts, you don't have to remove them, hand tighten them into the block, put the head on, and torque the nuts all down in the order specified in the tech manual in steps, such as 30-60-90

Just repeat the steps as many times as necessary to make sure you get all of the oil out. If there is oil still trapped it can give you a false torque reading, which for headbolts, can be fatal to a headgasket. I originally torqued my ARPs to 80ft./lbs in steps 20-40-60-80 using the ARP assembly lube on a brand new Mitsubishi OEM headgasket. Then I realized I was pushing coolant and was overflowing my overflow bottle. So I removed my valve cover and torqued the headbolts down to 100ft./lbs and haven't had a problem since! Most have been successful with about 90ft./lbs using the ARP lube. Do what you feel is right.

Hope this helps! It worked for me!