More Boost Leak Fun

[davidgt97]

I am still working through the boost leaks on my car. So far I found a large leak at the throttle plate "O" rings and I have replaced those. I am still leaking at the idle screw. I can't seem to get it out. It threads back even w/ the top of the hole but it won't thread all the way out. Also I have a leak at my smic to Bov hose. It is at the smic. I have removed the hose, cleaned the mating surface, snugged the clamp, and I even tried wrapping the pipe w/ teflon tape, but it still leaks. These leaks are relatively small, but I can't seem to build up more than 12 - 13psi during a boost leak test (bleeds off rather quick) and the car makes no more than 12psi driving down the road (running horribly at WOT). Would these two leaks make the car run this bad at WOT or should I be looking for something else too?

 

[turbosax2]

For the biss screw, if it's threaded out all the way you should be able to stick something sticky like duct tape to it to pull it out. For the hoses, try a new coupler and t bolt clamps if that doesn't work.

 

[HaveSomeJoe]

Hey I had the same boost leaks at the smic to bov hose and i tried everything to get it to stop. The problem was (I don't know if you have any but check for this) I had aluminum corrosion all around the outlet of the smic and there was TINY little holes corroded all the way through. I had to sand it really well with a file and sand paper, then smeared JB Weld all the way around the outside of it, the more i sanded, the more hidden holes became visible. Be careful not to get shavings inside the smic!

I don't know if you've done it before but its pretty quick and easy to remove the smic so maybe take a look and do the JB welding just in case since some holes can be almost invisible! Hope that helps


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Joe

 

[davidgt97]

My smic does have all kinds of corrosion around the bend so this is definitely a good possibilty and I will try to remove the idle screw w/ some tape tommorow. Thanks for the input guys, very helpful. Do you think these two leaks could make my car run this badly? I have my datalogger now. i don't know how to use it very well but maybe it will shed some light on any other issues

 

[oldman]

Use a small needle nose plier, put the tips on the BISS screw head and spread the plier to get a grip of the screw, works for me every time.

 

[HaveSomeJoe]

Do you think these two leaks could make my car run this badly?

Definitely, a couple little boost leaks caused me misfiring and violent bucking and hesitating. Since air is lost after the MAS accounts for it, things start to go wrong. The only thing is, after I fixed mine, I drove it and it was still doing it for about 2 minutes, and then everything was fine, the ecu had to adjust to the new 'boost-leak-less' way of life.



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Joe

 

[davidgt97]

I made some progress this morning. i removed the smic and pressurized it by itself. Sure enough air was blowing from a couple small pinholes in the corroded area. I sanded it down and applied some JB weld. After trying dozens of times to remove the idle screw, this time it backed right out. Now it has a new "o" ring. Next I pressurized the intake right in front of the BOV (the smic is still on the bench drying.) The idle screw leaks no air, but I still can't hold good air pressure. My air regulator is set at 30psi. The most I have built up is about 14 psi and it bleeds off in about 15sec. I have no idea if the engine is turned over to the correct place or if I still have a leak. I have not done a leak down test, but I have done a compression test: 180, 185, 180, 180.

 

[turbosax2]

Spray soapy water everywhere air can leak out so you can help pinpoint little leaks. Even though you may not hear air leaking out, you will be able to see bubbles form because of the soapy water.

 

[davidgt97]

There is still a small amount of air leaking from my BOV back into the recirc hose. Any ideas?

 

[alex99gst]

There is still a small amount of air leaking from my BOV back into the recirc hose. Any ideas?

You should update your profile. I assume you are running the 1g BOV. Mine was leaking around 20psi so I purchased the dejon power house leak stop kit (www.dejonpowerhouse.com). It works just like the dodge garage BOV trick except you don't get the compressor surge of having a super stiff BOV. It will use the boost pressure to hold the valve closed so that it seals very well. It is something to look into for only $50. I love it.

 

[davidgt97]

Ok first let me start by saying "I knew better" but oh well shit happens. I put the smic back on and drove the car down the road easily to let the ecu get reaquainted w/ what I hoped was no boost leaks. After a couple miles I got into the throttle and it drove ten times better but it started feeling a little low powered about 5800rpm. So I went home and pulled maybe the most common dsm "no no" I know. i pulled the wastegate line off and plugged it off. So I took off down the road in first, 20psi and it felt like a corvette. Then I hit second and the car went to missing and sputtering and there was enough smoke behind me to choke out a field of cows. I stopped at the next drive to turn around and the car died. It fired right back up and I very easily drove it 1/4 mile back to the house. I'm hoping I just nuked the stock turbo. Any thoughts? (besides way to go dumbass.)

 

[HaveSomeJoe]

Ehh, hopefully you didn't nuke it, but that happened to me too which is what gave me the idea to do the boost leak test in the first place. I didn't plug off the wastegate or anything but I did hit the throttle after it had been sitting for awhile in the possession of the previous owner. Sure enough several intake tubes had blown right off. Check all your hoses like the ones you took off to remove the smic and make sure they're still clamped on!



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Joe