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Wastegate Actuator or Solenoid?

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Vandal

15+ Year Contributor
68
1
Apr 21, 2005
Monticello & Albany, New York
Just need to see if other members concur with this diagnosis and what to do next on it.

It's a 95 Talon AWD with about 112k on it. Only mod done is a K&N filter. Mechanically, it was a purring kitten up until this problem.

We took it on a day trip to Buffalo (12 hour round trip) and everything was fine. Got home, let it sit, and a couple of hours later I got in again to go to work. I accelerated to get up a hill and the car started to severely stutter and blow out clouds of black smoke. Seems that anytime now you try to get up to speed fast, it happens right around when the car hits about 2500-3000rpm. Let off the gas though and it starts going smooth again. You can get up to highway speed as long as you accelerate reallllly slowly. Idle is fine. In fact, the car is fine as long as you stay under 3000rpm.

Anyway, it was an entire day before I found a place to look at the car and even then, it turned out to be a Mitsu dealer. No one else wanted to bother with a turbo car. The dealer's diagnoses was either the solenoid or actuator. Either or was causing the wastegate to not open fully. The part that made me nervous though was the mechanic said, "it's most likely this, but there may be underlying problems that we can't see until this is fixed". That was enough for me to get the car back on a trailer and come home. Upon visual inspection, everything looks good. All vaccuum hoses are hooked up and in good condition. There's enough clearance between the wastegate and heat shield.

It just perplexes me how everything was fine on the road trip and all went to hell after we got home. Well, I can't say everything was fine. There was that ball-busting state trooper on I-81 that gave me tickets for (get this!) illegal foglights (they are the factory ones!), failure to keep right (it was 11:30 at night!), and 80 in a 65.

Anyway, much help would be appreciated. I don't want my next step, or replacement purchase rather, to be the wrong one.
 
I know your car is mostly stock but 112k miles and a decade of heat cycling could have done in some of your intake couplings. I would start by testing for boost leaks. The symptoms you described sound a lot like a big boost leak.

Seth
 
I wonder why black smoke? I agree with Seth though.

My wastegate solenoid just went out in my 97 gst. Once I put my UICP and greddy type s on I was hitting fuel cut on stock psi. I then threw a code and since my check engine light came on I had to put on a MBC to lower the boost so now I'm not hitting fuel cut. I believe the code was P1103. My brother works at a dealership so he was able to check the code and give me a print out on what went out.
 
The part that is even more odd is that I haven't thrown any CELs. Even when the car starts acting up like that. Like I said once it hits around 3k RPMs, it bogs down bad until you let off the gas and the RPMs drop below that. Now just 15 mins ago I took the car out again after unplugging the battery. I beat on it for a mile, pedal grounded, with NO issues. It ran great. I stopped to turn around and went back, it started all over again. Couldn't do more than 30 uphill without it bogging and black smoke coming out. I wish I had access to some sort of camcorder so everyone could see how it acts on the road. Idle on the car stays at 700. No bouncing or surging. As I said, the only thing recently done to the car was the K&N put on last week and the cop forcing me to unplug my foglights. No apparent issues from that after installation. Doesn't overheat and no dummy lights come on. The car does knock when these symptoms start. You can hear it loud and clear. You can hear the car sucking in air, smell the excessive fuel, and the turbo spooling. The boost gauge is pegged until I let off the gas, then again I know the OEM gauge isn't the epitome of reliability.
 
Don't laugh at this. Since I don't have a leak tester readily available (I called around to a few parts store, closest thing they have is a compressor gauge or home depot with their pressure tank gauges), could I just spray soapy water on the piping and lines while the car is accelerated in park? Or is that pretty much futile?
 
You won't build any boost in park. There *is* a way otherwise with an auto but I'm not even going to get into it. Dumb, dangerous, and may ruin various parts of your transmission.

Make a boost leak tester. No other way around it, and it's one of the most useful tools you can have with a turbo car.
http://www.vfaq.com/mods/ICtester.html
 
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