Power windows and rear defrost

[turbo_talon08]

ok the other day while drivin down the highway in a really bad rain storm my rear defrost button kept lighting up and going off without me touching it. then the next day i noticed neither window would roll down. So now windows and rear defrost dont work. What would these two things have to do with each other? Ive been sick the last couple days so I havent had a chance to see if they are getting power to the switch or not but im guessing its not a window motor or switch since they both quit. The locks do infact still work and no i dont have the window lock on. Just thought that maybe someone has had a similar problem and could point me in the right direction. and yes i did look elsewhere but found nothing that fit my problem.
thanks

 

[Mikelb]

First, check the fuses. That is always the easiest thing to do.

I'm pretty sure you already know this, but the defroster is only going to run for a set amount of time (10-15 min, IIRC). IIRC, this is because the lines can overheat; most cars cut off after a set amount of time.

Now, do your doors leak? Some water could have possibly gotten into the switch. The driver's side switch is the master switch (so I've been told), if it gets broken, neither side will work.

Have any other interior lights/accessories (radio, gauge lights, cigarette lighter) stopped working?

 

[laserspeeddemon]

Man, you are ALL about checking the fuses.

I agree with above. RDEF have limited time. About the windows, check the simple things first, like fuses and go from there. Does the passenger window switch work. Or does niether window move from either switch?

 

[Mikelb]

Hey man, simple things first... They're usually the cheapest and most overlooked (and most common)... You won't believe all the calls I had as a PC tech, and it turned out the computer was unplugged.

That was always our first question.

 

[laserspeeddemon]

Wow, just...... wow....

 

[turbo_talon08]

ive checked fuses and i know that the rear defrost only stays on for a short amount of time but it doesnt come on for any amount of time. i just wondered if they would have something in common that would make them both stop working at the same time. i just find it hard to believe that they just both happen to go out at the same time with different problems. just thought maybe there was a common problem with this or something.

 

[laserspeeddemon]

Does the passenger side switch work or not?

 

[Pauseflash]

Ok, Well I'll start with this. A fuse, is a check safe and a tool for two reasons

Reason one, a tool... It shows you what path, your having problems with, Easy enough

Two, it protects one system from screwing up another system, I cars this is very important, because you are really running everything off one 12v system thats all interconnected. Fuses protect your next line of defense which is Diodes and Caps, but we wont get that in depth.



Point of this is, You can still have major damage to components even though the fuse fried trying to check safe. It saved your car, and possibly blowing up your battery or screwing your ECU.


Since owning my DSM I haven't, as of yet, Really taken a huge look at my books to really go through the schematics of electronics in there. That is my weekend project for this weekend. So I'm just gonna throw some general things out on this one.


Is there any cracks, in your rear defroster?. That could have led to a short. I know for sure, that somewhere by the defrost, is a pretty serious ground, cause mine is going, if I turn on defrost, my radio goes to hell with static. Check your grounds. A lot of people over look how important ground is in a DC circut like cars. Just as important as your Hot wires.

I'm gonna look over some schematics and wiring diagrams for you at work today and see if I can come up with a possible culprit.

 

[Defiant]

How long since some chimp's been messing with the stereo? Yes, it's probably a fuse, but no, they don't often just up and die without a cause. Not that they never do, but it's rare.

 

[turbo_talon08]

ok once again its not a fuse, ive checked them all. Im not getting power to the switch itself though. I tried a different relay so and still nothing so that rules out the relay. but if im getting power to the fuse and not the switch what does that leave? Im gonna try to get a hold of another switch and try that if not idk what to try next.

 

[Mikelb]

Are you getting power at the switch or just at the fuse? When I say at the switch, I mean at the connector for the switch. If you aren't getting power at the connector, check for power at the last relay in the circuit, if you have power there, somewhere in between that relay and the switch there is a break in the wires. Now if you don't have power at the relay, then go a little further back. Whatever it is, it's beginning to look like a fault in the wires.


Edit: A voltmeter/test light will be your best friend here.

 

[Pauseflash]

Sounds like a wire, after the swtich is grounded. You'll read power all day at the switch, and when you go to hit the switch, you'll still pick up power on the otherside of it, making it look like there is power. I'd guess somewhere, either inside your doors, or in the hatch itself, a wire is erroded and grounded. When you hit power, it goes to ground and not to the motors or heater.


This "Should" blow a fuse, but wont always be the case. Then again, it could just be a horrible ground after the fuse/switch/relays as well.....

 

[turbo_talon08]

I tried another switch and it still didnt work so besides a broken wire what does that leave. Im clueless.

 

[Mikelb]

Check the wires at the switch connector. If you have power coming to the switch then it's a wire leaving the switch to one of the motors. If the connector has no power, then the switch won't get power and it'll be a wire before the switch.

This will give you some general idea of where to go, because this is starting to sound like wiring.

 

[turbo_talon08]

does anyone have a wiring diagram of the window and lock switch? and where they go to?

 

[turbo_talon08]

ok well they started to work yesterday but then quit again and has been intermitent since then. so im pretty sure its a short of some kind I just need to trace it down. so if anyone has a wiring diagram it would be greatly appreciated.

 

[turbo_talon08]

ok well i found out that the blue/yellow wire that goes into the back of the relay wasnt getting a ground so it wasnt tripping the relay. so just incase anyone else has a similar problem this might be something to check. it was the top right relay that that junction. its got two red and white wires a black with blue wire and the blue with yellow.

 

[thorlief4g63]

I experienced the exact same symptoms and now my power windows and rear defrost dont work. I check the lock button, relay under the hood and have taken my door apart. The post prior to this offered his solution, but in my relay box there is only a red/white wire coming from the back of my power window relay. Could I get more clarification on how to fix this, what wires should I see coming from the relay? Any help is great.