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2G Cel P0125, Injectors, Upstream O2

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Jor-el

20+ Year Contributor
48
0
Mar 31, 2003
PK, New York
Hey, the other day I noticed that my autometer air/fuel gauge was not working properly, checked everything and it's hooked up correctly so I figured that either the gauge was bad or my front O2 sensor was on it's way out. A day later my CEL came on so I turned around and went back to work to put the DRB on it (I work for chrysler) and I have code P0125 now I read that it's probably my front o2 sensor, which makes sense. but I did a big no no over the winter and did not fill the tank and put stabilizer in it and she has been running like crap for the last week. she's getting better but now she still runs rough. I'm not sure how my injectors are holding up with all that bad gas so does anyone make 450 injectors for our car I don't have my dsm link yet and nothing to control bigger injectors, so I wanted to change the fuel filter and maybe the injectors, I already ordered the o2 sensor but nobody seems to make 450 injectors for our car. will 550 injectors be ok till I get the link?
 
nahh dont run 550's with out being able to bring em back. get some injector cleaner and some of those other additives and see if they dont make a difference. People have used seafoam for their tanks as well.
 
ok new 02 sensor is in and the car runs somewhat better at idle, runs excellent while driving just at start up she sputters and won't idle right. air/fuel gauge workinga lot better like normal except that there is one dash in the middle that stays lit all the time.injectors are firing so maybe the fuel filter needs to be replaced?
 
once she is warm and I can get past the initial stuttering and wanting to stall, then yes she runs fine but it's the first sputtering and whole car shaking thing that's bothering me.

p0125 Excessive Time to Enter Closed Loop Fuel Control.

once she is warm i don't have a problem any more is starts again as soon as i turn her off and back on again
 
what other thread?

no i assumed since the car sat untouched that it was bad gas and that sent my o2 sensor south. the new sensor helped a great deal but still not how she was before she went in the garage for the winter. my air/fuel gauge was not working correctly was get stuck and not moving very far back and forth but now she moves just fine when the car starts running right.
 
I meant other thread but I was wrong, you just posted in it. IS the sensor OEM? and one mire thing..IM diggin the door panels
 
thanks the door panels are all OE took OZ edition black door panels and just swapped the tan to it to trim the car the way mitsu should have from the start.

yes the sensor is OE i work for chrysler and know that most after market stuff is crap and OE needs to be used on certain things.
 
damn, so your sayin when the car is cold and just started idle sucks, but then gets better as gets warmer. But if you turn it off hot, and then turn it right back on...then it will sucks again>? If so how long does it suck, when it is warm?
 
yes I can't turn the car off and back on again.IE go into a store for pack of cigs and come back out and start her up again without the idle problem but if i drive her and get on it she bogs down like something is getting stuck the she clears up and runs fine. could the t-stat staying closed to long then opening do that. I know that coolant has a big part of correct fuel delivery and mixtures. I going to do the t-stat and a coolant flush on sat and when the fuel filter comes in I'll do that she has new plugs and the front 02 is brand new today just can't figure this out

by the way I did not clear the CEL i left it on hoping it would go off by Itself.
 
Hey I was going to suggest something with the T-stat malfunctioning. Deffinately look into that. Also what plugs and what gap are you running? Have you checked them lately ?


EDIT
Po-125 Insufficient Coolant Temperature For Closed Loop Fuel Control

This means that the engine coolant temperature (ECT) sensor indicates that the engine has not reached the required temperature level to enter closed-loop operation within a specified amount of time after starting the engine.
 
I got NGK 6es' in the car and the gap is at .030 just put them in tonight and they are the second set in two weeks she has been running like crap. yeah I believe that it's both things the 02 was definitley bad it was toasted white when it came out, my gas mileage has sucked for awhile. going to do the t-stat and the rad cap on sat see what chrysler dealers have it or which mitsu does close to me one of the greatest benefits of working at a dealer I pay less than everybody else and I get to look up the parts.
 
actually I think I figured out what the problem was I never reset the CEL so the ECU was working off all the old stored values and data of the bad O2 sensor. I turned the light off and she seems better searching for her idle but overall the car drives like a dream now. air/fuel gauge swings back and forth again and she only bogs down for a few seconds then idles correctly so I'm pretty sure that the O2 was the problem It just was taking longer with the light on for it to notice the new readings from the good sensor.
 
UPDATE: replaced 02 sensor car still ran like crap, light did not come back on so as for the p0125 a new o2 sensor fixed the problem, now the car still did not idle correctly not as bad as before but at times it would die, changed the fuel filter same thing car ran better but not 100% so after being completly puzzled my friend reminded me about my autometer air/fuel gauge as i said before one dash stayed lit all the time it would sweep back and for corectly but one little light existed all the time with the car idling it disconected the gauge ( cut the wires) and BAM! cars idle came back and has not had any problems since. called autometer told me sendthe gauge to them and they would replace it, it was defective.
 
I basically have same problem, but often get p0125 (Clsd Loop Fuel Ctrl Insufficient Coolant Temp) and p0325 at same time (Knock Sensor 1 Circuit Malfunction Bank 1 or 1 Sensor)
however i do not have an air/fuel gauge installed.
I clear codes and they alway comes back. how ever some times just the p0125.
asume i drive same milage everyday sometime codes will come back after 1/2 day 1 1/2 3 days very spurraticly.
Should my front 02 sensor ibe a 4 wire sensor?
front sensor has a line tapped for a a/f gauge
and there is a used a/f gauge on the pass floor.
only had car 13 day so far and has been low 30s windy and rainly lately havent had my time to dig into yet.
would you still think a new 02 sensor would fix problem?
 
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