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2G running on 3 cylinders? help please

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Jist_95

Probationary Member
15
0
Mar 21, 2005
Milwaukee, Wisconsin
Alright, well i was driving the other day and my 95 gst started acting up. It sounded as if the car was running on 3 cylinders. I pulled the plugs and the farthest right plug (#3?) was junk and it smelled like gas (the others were fine). So i changed the plugs and wires and it was still giving me the same problem. So I tested for spark and they all had an arc. But once i got all of the plugs and wires all hooked back up, the car wouldnt start. So i entended on going to find out what codes were being given, but the only place that told me they could do it was the dealer. I am lost for what to do next, does anyone have any ideas?
 
as far as the codes go, I know Autozone does engine check light testing for free and if not availabe in your area, you can buy a code reader from Sears for pretty cheap, and since the car is not a 96 or newer OBD II is not used and you would have to buy the correct adaptor however if you can get ahold of a analog multimeter from a autoparts store (mine was like 19 bucks, you can plug that into your 6th and 12 pin I believe on the ECU adaptor and it will give your code in pulses. that would be the cheapest way to do it, but when you reinstalled the new plugs and wires did you make sure to reroute them the say way that is the #1 plug back to the #1 adaptor on the distributor and so on an so fourth.
 
as far as the codes go, I know Autozone does engine check light testing for free and if not availabe in your area, you can buy a code reader from Sears for pretty cheap, and since the car is not a 96 or newer OBD II is not used and you would have to buy the correct adaptor however if you can get ahold of a analog multimeter from a autoparts store (mine was like 19 bucks, you can plug that into your 6th and 12 pin I believe on the ECU adaptor and it will give your code in pulses. that would be the cheapest way to do it, but when you reinstalled the new plugs and wires did you make sure to reroute them the say way that is the #1 plug back to the #1 adaptor on the distributor and so on an so fourth.

In anticipation of the OBDII requirement beginning in 1996 most cars built in late 1995 had the OBDII system. Far a '95 look at the diagnostic port to see if it has the 16 pin connector, if it does the car is equipped with OBDII.
 
Im not aware of any 95 DSM's that arent OBDII. Mine is a very early 95 manufactured in 94 and it is OBDII. So Id venure to say they all are. Autozone can read codes just do not tell them its a 95, say its a 96 or they will tell you they cant read it.
 
hey well that works even better. I am sorry I didnt realize that the 95 DMS had the OBD II, but if they do like these guys are saying, that makes it even easier. good luck
 
let us know what codes are.... a lot of times this stuff is stupid... so it's easiest to start with the basics....

cars need

timing: i wouldn't waste a lot of time here.. if ## timing is off or the belt snapped, you'd know it. (once I had a car that I thought the distributor had died and the hard way I found out what had happened was I had snapped the t-belt. luckily it wasn't interference)

Gas: turn the car over for a few seconds, then pull the plugs. they should smell like gas and be wet. if they're not, start looking at the appropriate injector. (once had a jetta that ran on 3 cylinders, so I replaced the plugs and checked them a week later to see what was going on, and 1 of the spark plugs looked brand new. so i replaced the injector and it ran fine)

spark: pull the plug, put it on the wire, then put it on the head or some other solid ground. turn car over. check spark. if one of them doesn't fire, that's where ## problem is. also, make sure the spark is solid and blue...

Misc.

1. did you gap the new plugs correctly? that could be a simple fix that would cause the car not to start....

1.5. did you make sure you didn't mix up the wires?

2. if the crank position sensor isn't working, the car won't turn over. but that'll throw a code anyway.

3. check all plugs and harnesses you may have moved, and double check everything again.
 
Alright, i seem to still be stuck.
-the spark plugs are gapped accordingly spec (.028-.031) mine = 0.029ish
-the wires are in the correct order
-everything has been double checked

I cannot seem to find a straight answer here. I called around the local parts stores (Napa, Auto zone, Advanced) and the all give me the same answer "we only do 1996 and up".. I proceed to try and explain to them my situation (95 = goofy year, some OBD I some OBD II) and they have no clue. I have been searching all morning for how to test for codes. The manual says all models covered are OBD II, and it says your suppose to be able to get a general code response by turning the ignition on and off 5 times, i was unsucessful every time. I keep finding articles that simply state plug a DMM into the 6th and 12th port of the diagnostic unit and look for voltage spikes (readings). I cant find the port at all, they say right next to the fust box, there isnt anything next to the fuse box. There are clips going into the fuse box but nothing that looks like a diagnostic port (dimensions are too small (1in x 1in). Hopefully one of you guys can help me out.
 
The OBDII diagnostic port will be located under the right side of the dash in the driver's area. If you're sitting in the drivers seat it will be above your right thigh. Here is a link to help you identify whether or not it is OBDII. If you have the 16 pin connector or underhood sticker like it shows make sure to emphasize that to the guys at Autozone.

http://www.obdii.com/connector.html

In your initial post you said that the sparkplug from the cylinder on the far right (it's actually #1, not #3) was fouled and smelled like gas while the others were fine, correct.
This might indicate a leaking fuel injector in that location.

Good luck.
 
I believe I found the 16pin connector. I splugged the DMM into the 6th and 12th ports (according to the diagram on that link) and im not reading anything. Im assuming the readings are in AC volts, and im assuming the key must be turned on to get the read out. I also tried the first and last ports, and one in one combination it would read a really small voltage increase (a tenth) for 2 quick durations, then it would pause and repeat the 2 quick pulses. Im not sure if those readings meant anything, but using that set of pulses the general code would be intermittent or complete loss of crankshaft and or camshaft position sensor signals, or the timing belt skipped one or more teeth. By random stroke of luck on that reading, a cam or crank sensor would cause a dissruption in timing, would it not? Or would those sensors give me a different set of symptoms?
 
i am pretty sure that the 6th and 12th pins are locted on opposite corners of the plug. top right and lower left are the two pins.
 
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