Spyder Top Questions

[4g63-pwr]

I have found it VERY hard to find alot of information relating to the power top on 97-99 Eclipse Spyders. This site has been my only saving grace. I have a few questions hopefully other Spyder owners can help me answer.
(Mods feel free to move this if needed, I beleve I got the location right. I mean a Convertable top is a "Body Part" of a Spyder)


To start, my car when purchased had the orginal control arm link bent and then cut off.

1st: My "Floting bar" was not attached to the top fabric but still attached to the headliner. I can see a glue reminant on the top, so it must belong attached. I beleve I can glue this back on. Have you heard of anyone trying this? Some mentioned needing a new top, but if it was OE glued why cant it be redone? What do you think?

2nd: Now I run into the link-bar missing issue. Will that bar missing prevent to motors from pulling the top? My top will not power retract. I was told it could be motor failure (clutch packs), even though you can hear them running. I read the "Motor Fix" article and i cant wait to try it (hope if fixes it sooo bad), but I need to know about the bars before I do. Can I use the power top without these bars?? Or do I need to fix them first? I think its a must, but would like to hear opinons.

3rd: Ive been mainly looking into the Ebay Kit to replace these due to the OEM cost of the bars THEN adding the strap kit. These bars will replace both for a fraction of the cost. Feekback ive heard on this kit is quite well. I know all about "Ebay Crap," and this kit seems to check out. I dont see how someone can screw-up something that simple as a bar and wire (but then again, if anyone can do it its on EBAY). Anymore personal experiance with these kits?


Again I appreciate you answering my questions and value your opinon.

 

[Piranha451]

If you are referring to the "MITSUBISHI ECLIPSE CONVERTIBLE TOP REPAIR KIT 1996-99" from uneedparts, yes it is well worth it! I installed one of his kits on my car and now the top works great without having to spend over twice the amount on the inferior OEM parts that will probably bend again anyway. The parts are not hard to install at all and the instructions are clear and easy to understand to boot! It shouldn't take much more than an hour to do both sides

 

[4g63-pwr]

If you are referring to the "MITSUBISHI ECLIPSE CONVERTIBLE TOP REPAIR KIT 1996-99" from uneedparts, yes it is well worth it! I installed one of his kits on my car and now the top works great without having to spend over twice the amount on the inferior OEM parts that will probably bend again anyway. The parts are not hard to install at all and the instructions are clear and easy to understand to boot! It shouldn't take much more than an hour to do both sides

Thanks, thats what I like to hear. BTW, Your from Oviedo. WOW, I used to live their. Their and Lake Mary is where I grew up. Love that place, stuck in NC for school. (this place sucks in compairison). But anyways... , back on topic

 

[spyderturbo007]

If you are referring to the "MITSUBISHI ECLIPSE CONVERTIBLE TOP REPAIR KIT 1996-99" from uneedparts, yes it is well worth it!

Does this take care of that damn bar that wants to bend on me everytime I put the top down.

Also, there is a writeup by wret that is a pretty good fix for the bending bar. He's pretty much the convertible top "guru" around here.

Here is his writeup:

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=197570

 

[wret]

1. The floating bar or "bow" should not be attached to either the top fabric or the headliner. The only fabric attached to it is wide strip of webbing stapled to the top.

2. You should definately fix the bow and links before operating the top electrically. You can cause more damage and even destroy the top fabric if it doesn't retract properly.

3. The ebay kit looks good. I have bent links many times but they haven't broken. If they did, you can bet I'd be ordering that kit. I don't know if it's exactly the same as what I have done, but if so, the cables in the kit eliminate the bent link problem permanently.

 

[spyderturbo007]

2. You should definately fix the bow and links before operating the top electrically. You can cause more damage and even destroy the top fabric if it doesn't retract properly.

My arm bent one day when putting the top down, but it didn't break. I just bent it back into position and now when I put the top down I just have to push on it the right way so the arm doesn't bend again.

So it would be fine to use your fix with the bar that I bent back in place? Or would you recommend replacing the arm?

 

[wret]

I would suggest the mod you linked to. My links were bent/straightened several times over the years due to failure of the elastic device. Never a problem after attaching chain/cable to the link.

 

[4g63-pwr]

1. The floating bar or "bow" should not be attached to either the top fabric or the headliner. The only fabric attached to it is wide strip of webbing stapled to the top.

Odd WTF, I know the headliner should be attached to it (plastic clip that clips on it). The top, well their is a glue residue their. Maybe were thinking of 2 diff bars.

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Thats the bar. You can see the residue of glue on the top.


and for the bent link. Now im just waitng for the EBAY guy to post up a new auction.

 

[wret]

Yes, you are right. The headliner clips to the bow.

The glue on the top is a mystery. Maybe it's something they started after '97. I don't see the need for it though.

 

[4g63-pwr]

Yes, you are right. The headliner clips to the bow.

The glue on the top is a mystery. Maybe it's something they started after '97. I don't see the need for it though.

I wont contest, hell thats less for me to do . I mean you have the same mechanisum, and works fine without. So, I wont worry about it.



Well thanks for everyones input and help. Ill update on how the link/motor fixes go. I cant wait to have a powertop .

1st thing I want to do with it is at a stop light, drop the top to reveal me flicking off the person behind me. Then raise it back up! HAHAHA, that would be great. Ill prob do it when a friend is behind be. So I dont get a road raged nut behind be.

 

[4g63-pwr]

Just remember, you can only raise the top while you are stopped. If the car moves at all, the top will stop moving. It takes about 12 seconds to raise but this can seem like an eternity when the light turns green.

...and the road-raged thugs will have time to catch you.

 

[4g63-pwr]

BIG ISSUE my #30 Torx screw that goes into the #2 top bow, and the plastic leveling piece that goes with it are missing. Does anyone know where to get them?? Really ill only NEED that plastic leveling piece. But yea, im stuck now


DSM------> <------Me

 

[4g63-pwr]

Alright, well here is the update. Bars are in and working GREAT.

The pins fixed the motors. BUT and its a big but, DONT USE HANGER WIRE! I did this and it worked for awhile. But when the top gets to an extreme point in the up or down position it snaps the hanger like nothing. Hanger wire is made from crap metal and is WEAK.

So instead I used some Tension Pins frome Home Depot.

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I had to drill out the hole to 1/8 size to fit them, but that was easy and well worth the extra strength.