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car idles high

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talontedtsi1995

15+ Year Contributor
140
0
Sep 14, 2005
reading, Pennsylvania
I have a 1995 Talon Tsi with BS removed, and injen intake.. after a period of driving, the car will sometimes idle high as in between 1,200 to 2,000 RPMS, any suggestions of to why it would be doing this? thanks
 
Get an ohm meter and check out your isc coils. Also check out your biss (idle set screw) and make sure that it is'nt vibrating out.
 
Bringing this thread back from the dead... hopefully someone replies.
So, I have the same problem after a period of driving it will idle high and when i turn the car off and start it again when the engine is hot it will idle even higher around 2-3k rpm. I saw that one of you said to check for a boost leak how would that effect the idle only when the engine is warm. And as for the BISS can anyone let me know what it does like if I tighten it will the idle go up or down kind of thing.
 
I've read the BISS article but I have a 2g and they said its some what similar but if someone with a 2g could post a picture and circle it that would be great. Also, any idea why this only affects the idle when the engine is hot/warmed up/ driven for a while. And why it idles even higher when I turn the car on again when the engine is still warm. Please let me know what you think. Also, so you guys recommend tightening it a bit?
 
If it was the BISS screw it would do it all the time, regardless of engine temps. It would also probably surge like each one of mine have done.

Boost leaks are a definite check. Your TPS could be malfunctioning, or ISC. Have you done anything recently to the car?
 
High idle after the motor has warmed up is usually from the throttle cable being too tight. Loosen the cable just a bit using the bracket located on the firewall side of the intake manifold. Loosen 2 10mm bolts, slide bracket towards TB just a little, re-tighten bolts. Trial and error to get it close to where you want it then fine tune using BISS.
 
Grab your throttle cable and pull it towards the throttle plate, If the plate closes at all or move in the closing direction your cables are too tight..
 
I did notice when it idles high and I move the cable towards closing the plate the idle goes back down to normal idle. So I am guessing it is too tight as you guys said and also I am quite new to cars as this is my first one so I am not familiar with what the firewall is or where it is located and what it looks like sorry. Is there any threads with a walk through on how I can loosen it or if you guys could explain it in a little more detail that would be great! Thanks everyone.:thumb:
I am off to bed now I will check back tomorrow on the posts hopefully I can get this done on sunday when I have a the half day off!

P.S. I do not know how to do boost leak checks is it easy or should I take it to a mechanic?
 
This post explains things pretty well:

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/tuning-engine-management/241449-tps-reading-idle.html#post151021480

If you can't find any pics of the throttle cable bracket doing a search let me know and I'll snap a pic for you.



Edit: Boost leak tests are not hard at all but it does require an air compressor and a tester which you can either buy or make yourself. Periodic boost leak tests are one of the best ways to keep your motor running well. Here are some options:

IC Pipe Tester

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/art...-boost-leak-test-how-boostpro-net-tester.html

This is the one I made:

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/art...1554-boost-leak-check-device-alternative.html
 
I did notice when it idles high and I move the cable towards closing the plate the idle goes back down to normal idle. So I am guessing it is too tight as you guys said and also I am quite new to cars as this is my first one so I am not familiar with what the firewall is or where it is located and what it looks like sorry. Is there any threads with a walk through on how I can loosen it or if you guys could explain it in a little more detail that would be great! Thanks everyone.:thumb:
I am off to bed now I will check back tomorrow on the posts hopefully I can get this done on sunday when I have a the half day off!

P.S. I do not know how to do boost leak checks is it easy or should I take it to a mechanic?

a boost leak test is fairly easy.. you could buy a built one or you can make your own..(15-20dollars) alot of shops have no clue of what a blt is... they will probably go like :confused: :hmm: ...

also the throttle cable has 2 10mm screws unloosen them but dont remove them, after that turn you car on and let it idle... now adjust the cable back or forward and listen to you idle if you pull and the idle raises then its too tight after you got the right spot tighten the bolts back up and you done.... make sure its not too tight cause youll have the same problem again...


P>S>= i thought mine had the same problem but it turned out to be the spring in the throttle body going...!!!
 
+1 for same problem. But its weird. I can still adjust it but once I rev it up it sticks again. Im gonna mess with it a bit tonight and ill add to the collection of results.

oh and the adjustment area is just to the right of the circle (sorry using a pic from a question I had) its a rectangle bracket with 2 10mm bolts. If you are unsure follow the black cable from the box on the pass side (near the battery) and it will lead you to it.

95 GST :: 100_1054-Copy.jpg picture by Twitchfmx8811 - Photobucket
 
Hey romeen do you think u can snap a picture and circle which bolts are for the bracket. I am not too sure where they are. Thanks!

See the gold colored bracket on the back of the intake manifold? It has two bolts. There are 2 large red wires attached at the bolt on the right side (the red wires are aftermarket ground wires and more than likely you wont have them) and there is a small black wire attached to the bolt on the left side of the bracket. Those are the two bolts that you need to loosen then you can slide that bracket either to the left towards the throttle body to loosen the throttle cable (ie-give it more slack) or slide it towards the right to tighten the cable. Make small adjustments at a time. Before you make an adjustment make a couple small marks on the bracket and IM to show it's current position. This will give you a reference point.

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This pic is looking at it from the driver's side of the car.

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I'm having basically the same problem. When I turn my car on and it's cold to medium temps it idles low and normal but when it gets warm it idles really high at like 2-3K rpms. If I put it into first though and start driving the rpms go back to normal. So it only happens when the car is in neutral and at a hot temperature. This just started today and the weather has been really hot here today so is my problem basically the same or different? And would I just follow these same steps?
 
Ok just got back from messing with mine. I set it where it had all kinds of slack in the line. I could move the cable all around without the tb moving. I drove a while and thought I had fixed it but at the last moment (and all of a sudden) it started idling at 1500 and when I got back it was 1800. So I physically grab the tb and turn it back and it starts idling at 800 like it should but now also there is no slack in the line what so ever. Its almost like a guitar string.
 
I had this same problem and it ended up to be the throttle body/cruise control cable that was stretched and seemed to stretch more when the car was hot after driving for a while.since then i put in a non cruise control cable and it fixed my problem
 
Thanks everyone. I will try to look for something like that next time I take a look but my intake manifold looks a bit different then yours romeen it does not say eci multi on it either, but I will do my best and check it and let you guys know how it goes. Thanks!
 
Thanks everyone. I will try to look for something like that next time I take a look but my intake manifold looks a bit different then yours romeen it does not say eci multi on it either, but I will do my best and check it and let you guys know how it goes. Thanks!

Yeah, I have a 1G IM. Don't be distracted by the lettering or lack of MDP sensor on mine. The throttle cable bracket and it's location is the same on all of our manifolds.
 
Could someone tell me where the BISS screw is at? I have the same problem but my throttle cable is actually quite loose. So I'm not sure how I could fix my idle problem.
 
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