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Wheels spin by themselves and oil line question

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justin0469

20+ Year Contributor
1,004
10
Apr 4, 2003
san diego, California
Two seperate issues.

I noticed that when I have my front wheels off the ground, they will spin on their own at idle with the car out of gear. Is this normal? I wouldn't think so, I searched but couldn't find anything, maybe wasn't using the right words?

I am pretty sure that oil is leaking from line on the bottom of the turbo to the oil pan (return line Im assuming?). Is this a turbo specific line? All I know that it is a 50 trim but no brand markings and no one here has been able to ID it to a company. What info do I need to have to replace this line?
 
I really have no experience dealing with turbo lines yet, but would it be possible to use a short piece of SS and 2 compression fittings to replace the broken section of line?

I hope that helps.
 
Well I can't imagine that this small of an oil line would cost that much, I would rather just replace it.
 
There are a couple ways to fix the oil return line leak. First off is it leaking because the line is cracked or because the gasket is bad where the line meets the pan or where the line meets the turbo. Do you know what the line consist of (all metal, rubber hose, AN fittings and rubber hose, etc...) Or it could be something as simple as the gasket has gone bad and it needs to be replaced.
 
Its all rubber and is held on to the metal connectors coming off the pan and turbo. I don't know if the gaskets or what. I am just pretty sure that the leak is coming from this line as there is nothing else in the area that would cause this leak. I have been looking into gaskets but in those threads they give a part number for the gasket forthe line to the pan but it shows up as three choices. Left gasket return tube, right gasket return tube, and GASKET,T/C OIL RE. And since no one has been able to ID my turbo other then 50trim, i am unsure what kind of gasket i need for the other side.
 
The spinning wheels are perfectly normal. The air inside the bell housing, between the flywheel and the clutch, is a naturally viscous fluid. Because of this property, minute amounts of power are transmitted to the wheels, much like some sort of an inefficient viscous coupling.
 
I highly recommend actually buying a gasket to re-do the ones that are probably leaking but if you cannot find out what gasket it is, my only other recommendation would be some RTV gasket maker and remake them that way. YOu would need to take the line off, throughly clean both surfaces (line itself, turbo, and pan) of any gasket material and make your gaskets with the RTV.

From what you are saying though, it seems that whoever installed the turbo took the stock oil return line, cut about 2 inches down off each side, and replaced the cut out section with some rubber hose. In that case either go to the dealer and get a set or slowboy/extreme psi sells the gaskets.

http://www.slowboyracing.com/shop.p...63&PHPSESSID=d2cc46f9f7ff9e03be53f682e714e818

http://www.extremepsi.com/store/customer/home.php?cat=863
 
The oil return line itself from the dealership was $13 when I replaced mine 8 months ago. Price shouldn't have changed too much since then.
 
travislaw said:
The oil return line itself from the dealership was $13 when I replaced mine 8 months ago. Price shouldn't have changed too much since then.

Just clarifying, the guy at the top post said he has a garrett turbo, the garrett oil drain flange is much wider than a stock mitsubishi oil drain flange. Mashing up a stock one onto a garrett non ball bearing center section is a tough squeeze in and then it usually leaks because you had to file it out so much to fit. This is why we machine our own CNC fittings for the specific turbo that accept -10AN fittings.

Also, in case any one is wondering, we have lots of our SBR LSD's on the shelf.
 
It does seem like someone installed the Garrett turbo and decided to mash/modify the stock oil return line and attempt to make it seal with the turbo. The correct way, like you stated, is to get the return line with the AN fittings.

I guess we wont know what has been really used till he pulls off the old line.
 
Ya, it kinda looks like a ghetto job. But I would like to go with a SS line and AN fittings. I just dont know what kind of adapter I need for the turbo size. They all look similar enough that I don't even think taking it off and comparing it to pictures will help. How many different options do I have?
 
SlowboyCSE said:
Just clarifying, the guy at the top post said he has a garrett turbo, the garrett oil drain flange is much wider than a stock mitsubishi oil drain flange. Mashing up a stock one onto a garrett non ball bearing center section is a tough squeeze in and then it usually leaks because you had to file it out so much to fit. This is why we machine our own CNC fittings for the specific turbo that accept -10AN fittings.

Also, in case any one is wondering, we have lots of our SBR LSD's on the shelf.
Your right, my bad. Didn't catch that.
 
Just to take off the turbo side adapter of the line, do I have to drain the oil? Before I start the car, do i need to manually put in oil into the feed side of the turbo?
 
no,you dont have to drain the oil, it would be helpful to let the car sit overnight so all the oil runs into the pan, otherwise you might have to deal with a mess

in any case, get a tray ,put some kitty litter into it and put that under the area your going to work on..it sure beats cleaning oil stains off the garage floor.

no need to prime your turbo afterwards
 
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