Reverted back to recirculation, engine stalls

[jccjr1982]

Hi,

I bought a metal intake pipe, and installed it today. I also reverted back to my 2g BOV to recirculate since my venting BOV vacuum leaks even during idle (feel suction from around the vent holes).

Anyways here's my problem. After installing the intake pipe and reverting back to 2g BOV, I took it for a drive. I got to 4th, boosted no problem (saw a lil boost creep to 15 PSI but no biggie). Anyways, I pressed in the clutch and held it in a lil' long because I missed the shift to 5th . My engine then stalled. I started it back up, and drove off.

I notice now that everytime I have my clutch pedal pressed in during shifting, my RPM's will steady drop to 0. So basically I can't hold the clutch in too long or my engine will stall.

My car will idle in neutral fine while parking though.

I searched and found a post where a guy is having a similiar problem, but the repliers blame his clutch or venting (which he isn't even doing).


I checked all the connections I messed with, including the MAF harness, vacuum lines, couplings etc.. everything is nice and snug.

Funny since people say venting causes problems, but my car didn't do this stalling bs while I was venting... WTF

 

[TSIMonsteR]

sounds like a vac keak. You need to get rid of that stinking 2g BOV

 

[blackGSX2g]

Any clicking noises with the motor when the clutch is depressed?

On a properly working motor, engaging/disengaging the clutch should not put a noticable additional load on it. Read up on some of the symptoms of crankwalk.

 

[jccjr1982]

Hrm no clicking that I have noticed.. but I'll keep my ear open...

I just read the symptoms of crankwalk... My clutch has been actin' kinda funny the past few days. Its definitely been inconsistant with the engagement height, and sometimes it feels like there's barely any pressure on my clutch. Also sometimes when I press the clutch, it feels like the pedal was already half way pushed down because with a half push its already on the deck...

I just thought it had something to do with my BOV/intake pipe because it just started doing this stalling crap not even 5 minutes on the road after installing those.

But I do have an update, it doesn't do it every time I shift now, it does it when I disengage from around 4000+ RPMs...

 

[jccjr1982]

Well if anyone would like to know, I narrowed it down to the 2g BOV.

I went back to the venting BOV, and problem instantly went away. Weird thing is that I never had this problem when I first had the 2g BOV originally. Kinda sucks because I don't want to vent anymore...but oh well whatever works.

 

[JLangevin]

Are you properly venting? I mean, this isnt related to your problem but I dont see a MAFT or GM MAF in your list of mods... Im curious because usually the problem is the other way around, the guys who vent will stumble/stall etc, without the proper setup.

The engine still has to know when the BOV has opened and the throttle has been cut, hense the recirculation, correcting an over-rich mixture... those who vent without mods usually will run rich since the computer continues to dump fuel at idle.

How does the car run?

 

[hopeformylife]

I would trying reseting your ECU after going back to non-venting.

 

[Defiant]

my venting BOV vacuum leaks even during idle (feel suction from around the vent holes).

Uh.... yeah. BOVs are opened by vacuum. That's part of what makes venting bad.

Not that we've ever spoken much about it or anything.

Your ECU may take a week to heal from compensating for your poor intake setup.

 

[jccjr1982]

Uh.... yeah. BOVs are opened by vacuum. That's part of what makes venting bad.

Not that we've ever spoken much about it or anything.

I meant that if I wrapped my hands around the venting holes, it would suck my skin into them. I would think that even though its a venting BOV, it should not suck at all when the cylinder inside the BOV inside is seated properly, and blocking the venting holes. Yet mine does.

Are you properly venting? I mean, this isnt related to your problem but I dont see a MAFT or GM MAF in your list of mods... Im curious because usually the problem is the other way around, the guys who vent will stumble/stall etc, without the proper setup.

I wasn't venting "properly". I know newbie mistake, I bought that BOV when I first got the car. I wanted to sound cool, but then I came here and read all the horror that comes with venting... so thats why I tried going back to recirc.

I would trying reseting your ECU after going back to non-venting.

Yes my friend recommended this too, but I just went back to the old BOV instead.



My car runs fine venting, and my gas mileage is the same. Only difference is that after a heavy vent, my car kinda jolts back. Otherwise my car runs smooth.

I will go back to recirc once I get a FMIC with new piping (with a 1g flange), so I could also buy a GReddy Type-S BOV.

 

[Defiant]

I meant that if I wrapped my hands around the venting holes, it would suck my skin into them. I would think that even though its a venting BOV, it should not suck at all when the cylinder inside the BOV inside is seated properly, and blocking the venting holes. Yet mine does.

You have high vacuum at idle. That opens the BOV. It stays open until the throttle is opened enough for the spring in the BOV to overcome the remaining vacuum in the intake.