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Tuners! We have a fuel problem!

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exile

15+ Year Contributor
281
4
Aug 8, 2004
Westminster, Maryland
Thanks in advance for your help.

Preface: I just finished installing my 16g and I've been driving it out of boost for the last week because I am without an MBC. Car has been running on new 16g flawless for about 500 miles, no leaks at all.

Problem: I was driving down the road and car seemed to bog, I pulled over.. checked it out and nothing was obviously wrong with it. I then continued driving and about 2 miles later the car dies (0 rpm caught my eye) and I pull over. Car will crank real fast and not start at all.

Steps I've Taken:

- I tried jump starting it
- I checked fuses
- I attempted to read my DTC with DSMLink (I can't reach link, maybe an isolated problem.)
- (Because of previous) I tried another ECU
- I checked my timing belt (the belt is still secure, no broken teeth but I don't know what to look for in regards to skipped timing)
- I focused on my fuel pump for a while. I removed the connector, cranked.. released gas pressure, cranked, plugged it back in, cranked. Nothing. I removed the connector, checked my voltage. ~8 volts with key on ACC. ~6 volts when cranking (digital meter, not analog.. it's jumping but I can't see it). I installed jumpers and ran it to a 12v 7aH battery and the fuel pump started whining. It was NOT whining with the ACC on. I let it run whine for about 5 minutes. Still car doesn't start.

At this point in time I am confindent that the MPI relay is working because I do see a (low) voltage at the connector with key on. I also believe that the fuel pump is working because it's whining when I connect it to a battery. I'm thinking it's possibly a clogged filter or something wrong with the injectors.

Read This: I am aware of the tutorials about troubleshooting no-starts. I have researched several other posts and they have all died w/o a indefinate solution. I am posting this because I need to know more about what I don't know about the fuel system and injectors FAST because my car is sitting in a parking lot, not my driveway. Please help me ASAP!! Thanks guys I really appreciate it.
 
Update: Me and my dad were talking about this since it's raining and it sucks working on your car in the rain. I'm thinking, I read the MPI relay controls the fuel pump and ECU voltages. It's probably a DPDT relay, so.. if the voltage to my fuel pump is 8v and isn't enough to turn the fuel pump on, maybe it's not enough to turn the ECU on and that's why the other ECU I tried didn't work either, and would also explain why I can't connect with DSMLink.

I'm looking at my haynes schematics now to see if the voltages would be the same. Let me know what you think about that!
 
the only time i have had a car crank really fast like you described was when I had a loss of compression in 2 cylinders, it made the motor turn over much easier
 
I can't find the MFI relay in this FREAKING CAR. I tore the entire interior apart and I can't find it so I can't test to see if it's damaged.

I am getting 10v to the ECU, and 8v to the fuel pump. I don't think it's the relay. Guys please help me this is getting rediculous.


Update: I did some research and found out that the MPI relay for the 95 (I had an EPROM ecu) is in 1 large 8 pin connector in a gold box just like the 1g (who also have eprom ecu's and need the constant RAM power) which leads me to believe I already found it. I just need to find a pinout for this thing to make sure it's working correctly before I replace it.

It's just messed up that with no load, my voltages are 10v and 8v instead of 12v across the board here.
 
exile said:
I am getting 10v to the ECU, and 8v to the fuel pump. I don't think it's the relay. Guys please help me this is getting rediculous.

It's just messed up that with no load, my voltages are 10v and 8v instead of 12v across the board here.

What is your battery voltage?

I lost a alternator the other day and when the car finally started running badly my voltage was reading 7.5v.

Please check that the cams are turning when you turn the crank.
Make sure that the check engine light comes on when you first turn the ignition on.
The factory boost gauge should move to read 0 too.

Steve
 
start out doing a compression test.. stop this relay mess.. if the car turns over like it has very little resistance then chance's are you may have skipped your t-belt.. have you ever replaced it or have you had it done? what you need to do is pull your crank pullie off remove the 4 bolts and slide it off.. then pull the upper cam gear cover off and have an assistant crank the engine over.. if they dont all move and your timeing marks dont line up.. you t-belt is bad.. have fun..
 
I figured out the problem..... I feel like an idiot.. the fuse I used to replace the engine fuse was previously broken. As soon as I replaced the replacement it worked fine.

Thanks guys for your help.
 
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