5200 RPM lag on e316g?? Help!

[spoold]

Ok so i recently finished installing my evo3 16g, and it does not build full boost (16 psi) untill 5000 rpm??? what gives? it will build a few lbs at 3600-4600 but wont build all 16 until 5000 rpm?

I have a turboxs MBC hooked up tee-d into my bov line ( I KNOW, OLD MAN! ill change it to the LICP tomorow), but even when i disconnect the line from BOV to MBC it still wont build full boost until that high (it just goes past 16 psi after 5000 rpm?)

What could be a problem? I do not have any majorboost leaks as i just tested and securely fixed all the leaks?

Could my Greddy Type s not being "tightened" enough have to do with anything?

Ive previously boost leaked tested and fixed leaks at all Throttle body/biss screw/UICP areas. So i can count that out im assuming

If theres any other info that would be helpful please ask, im so lost right now!

Also: I just put in a new manifold gasket, a 2g mani (so no cracks im assuming), and new injectors DID go in but even if the injectors are leaking boost, would it really affect my spool up this badly??

My mods, in case it helps?

ported evo 3 16g
ported 2g mani
ported evo3 o2 housing
3" RNR o2 housing back straight
injen intake
turboxs mbc
28x10x3 FMIC
Short route piping
Greddy type s
Evo 8 560's
SAFC 2
Datalogger
.. and more but those are most of the important ones that have to do with the turbo system?

I searched and found similar problems by members, but theyre solutions were all irrelevant to my problem, albeit a similar problem

And heres a sample log for you guys so that you can see how late boost hits (the timing dip)

rpm o2 `timing
2480 .89 32
2428 .03 27
2528 .85 25
3636 .89 24
2760 .89 23
2884 .89 23
3020 .89 23
3176 .89 21
3320 .89 20
3476 .93 20
3636 .91 18
3784 .93 18
3952 .93 15
4128 .95 14
4316 .95 12
4516 .95 11
4732 .97 10
4928 .95 10
5200 .93 11
5452 .93 12
5712 .93 13
5952 .93 13
6220 .91 13
6400 .91 13
6608 .91 13
6832 .91 14
7004 .91 38

 

[delta448]

Sounds like an exhaust leak or slight boost leak to me. Possibly an issue with the WG or actuator.

Where'd you tap in for the boost gauge?

 

[spoold]

boost gauge is tapped into off the D.S. vacuum line on the intake manifold.

But i havent touched anything more than a new turbo and new injectors, and before, on my t28 i spooled 2400-2500 great

 

[oldman]

1. what were the results of the boost leak test?

2. What do you mean when you said you test ran with the line from BOV to mbc disconnected.

3. Is this the TurboXS standard mbc? If so, bypass the mbc and test run.

4. Don't guess, use the cloth on tailpipe method that DMV uses and listen for exhaust leaks.

5. Remove the flapper arm and make sure the flapper is sealing properly.

6. Was this a brand new turbo?

 

[spoold]

1. what were the results of the boost leak test?
I had a leaking BISS screw, throttle body elbow gasket, BOV gasket, BOV vacuum line, and LICP. All were fixed andi have a totally differnet LICP setup now.

2. What do you mean when you said you test ran with the line from BOV to mbc disconnected.
I am tee-d into the bov vacuum line for my MBC source right now (temporary, ive read a lot about what you suggest for sources and i will be switching to the J pipe for source tomorow. I believe you answered my question about this in #3


3. Is this the TurboXS standard mbc? If so, bypass the mbc and test run.
Yes its standard. So by that you are suggesting, remove the line from the wastegate to the MBC itself, and try it again? If so, ill try that tomorow before ripping into stuff.
4. Don't guess, use the cloth on tailpipe method that DMV uses and listen for exhaust leaks.
Im unfamiliar with the cloth on tailpipe method, could you debrief me? Is the name suggesting that you just wrap the muffler with cloth to silence it, and better hear exhaust leaks?
5. Remove the flapper arm and make sure the flapper is sealing properly.

This is my main priority, and what im assuming to be the problem. How can i see if my flapper is properly sealing? remove the cotter pin holding the arm to the flapper, and then do what?

6. Was this a brand new turbo

No, but i bought it off a good friend who only ran it for about a month before tranny problems occured last year.

thanks oldman

 

[oldman]

I had a leaking BISS screw, throttle body elbow gasket, BOV gasket, BOV vacuum line, and LICP. All were fixed andi have a totally differnet LICP setup now.

How much pressure and how long did it hold?

I am tee-d into the bov vacuum line for my MBC source right now (temporary, ive read a lot about what you suggest for sources and i will be switching to the J pipe for source tomorow. I believe you answered my question about this in #3

I know that part, I'm asking exactly how did you disconnect it.

Yes its standard. So by that you are suggesting, remove the line from the wastegate to the MBC itself, and try it again? If so, ill try that tomorow before ripping into stuff.

No, I'm asking you to connect the pressure source, in this case the line from the Tee on the BOV line , directly to the wastegate without going through the mbc.

This is my main priority, and what im assuming to be the problem. How can i see if my flapper is properly sealing? remove the cotter pin holding the arm to the flapper, and then do what?

You are checking the length of the arm against the flapper at closed position. The arm should be slightly shorter so it will pull and hold the flapper shut. If the arm is too long, it will hold the flapper slightly open.

No, but i bought it off a good friend who only ran it for about a month before tranny problems occured last year.

Therefore you can't rule out the possibility of a troubled turbo.

Keep in mind to not assume that there is only one problem, it can be combination of all that has been mentioned.

thanks oldman

You're welcome.

 

[spoold]

It would hold at 12 psi then dwindle down in about 10 seconds. After fixing my leaks it held 18 then dwindled down in about 15 seconds, with no bubbles coming from the soap water anymore

I simply eliminated the tee in the bov line, and disconnect the source line from the MBC

I cannot rule out the possibility of a bad turbo, but the turbo did spin freely and was in great condition.

Im going to run another leak test tomorrow, as well as check the flapper arm. Ill hope for the best i guess!

 

[oldman]

I simply eliminated the tee in the bov line, and disconnect the source line from the MBC

Didn't this resulted in infinite boost? The reason I'm stressing this mbc vs. bov line is because mbc will bleed pressure off the BOV line when under boost causing the BOV to open slightly which can contribute to your problem. Since TurboXS standard is a bleeder type mbc, you're also creating a vacuum leak when off boost.

Im unfamiliar with the cloth on tailpipe method, could you debrief me? Is the name suggesting that you just wrap the muffler with cloth to silence it, and better hear exhaust leaks?

Forgot to answer this one. Have one person block the tailpipe with a thick piece of cloth or a piece of cardboard for a couple of seconds while the engine is on, have another person listen and feel for leaks. Common sense should be enough to determine how long to block the tailpipe.

 

[spoold]

Alrighty, update time.

I pulled the arm and the flapper went over towards the passenger side more than it did when the arm was holding it.

Heres some pictures to show you where to arm holds the flapper VS the entirely closed flapper.

It looks to be a matter of a washer, and i was wondering if i could just put a washer between the wasetgate--> compressor bolts, to slide the whole thing over? would that hurt anything?

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[daren_p]

It looks like something is up with you wg actuator. Yes you can add washers between the wg actuator and comp cover but not sure if you'll be able to shim it enough. Normally the actuator puts a good amount of pressure on the flapper to keep it closed. You might just need to get a new actuator. The bolts holding the wg actuator onto the comp cover aren't all that long, so you can only put about 3 washers between them. Might be able to get some longer bolts so you can add more washers if need be.

 

[ShapeGSX]

Forget the washers. Just bend the wastegate actuator bracket. In order for it to be that far off, it must be bent in the other direction, anyway.

 

[spoold]

Problem solved! she boosts full boost at damn near 3100 rpms!

Anyone else have problems with the extrempsi.com MHI evo3's wastegate???

I was tempted to return it, but the time that went into this install, crush washers were worth the fix.

 

[spoold]

Oldman, everythings working great now. I drilled/tapped/ vacuum nippled my compressor housing so that is my new MBC source, runs like a champ and no more tee in the bov line

 

[Newlogics]

Problem solved! she boosts full boost at damn near 3100 rpms!

Anyone else have problems with the extrempsi.com MHI evo3's wastegate???

I was tempted to return it, but the time that went into this install, crush washers were worth the fix.

Chances are wastegate arm got bent during installation/removal/shipping/drinking.... in other words, EVOIII16Gs don't normally have wastegate actuator problems when new.