jumped timing from sitting ????

[1TUFFDSM]

it sat for 2 days i went to take it to work today and when i go to start it loud tapping noise, i knew it was not the lifters casue they never did that.

so i went to line everything up and found its off 3-4 teeth, i hope nuttin is damaged, i turned it on for a total of maybe 10 sec.

why whoud this happen, it has a new tentioner and t-belt, i dont understand, the ran great b4 this, no signs of it failing

guess i gotta bring out the irocz now , ### you guyz think ?

 

[dsmdizzle]

The only thing I can think of is that you didnt fully get the tensioner on the lever when you put it on. And when it started it jumped the timing. Other than that maybe you didnt get them fully lined up. Also do a compression test and see if you bent any valves.

 

[Irrational]

if you herd shit hitting your valves are bent. who did the timing belt ? how long ago ? did they make sure the hydrolic tenchoner rod was extended to spec?

 

[toybreaker]

You won't know the why or how bad until you do a visual inspection with the covers off.

Begin by NOT turning the engine over AT ALL.

Dissassemble everything back to the t-belt installation phase.

Look at the crank position. determine where tdc is, and turn the crank away from tdc temporarily so you can reset the cams to their orientation at tdc #1. (both dowel pins straight up) You don't want to turn the cams with the crank at tdc, because the valves will hit the pistons...

Now, you can bring the crank back up to tdc #1 and install the belt normally and check compression and/or leakdown.


I would strongly recommend a new mitsu. belt. If it skipped, it probably damaged a couple of teeth on the belt, even though it may be hard to see.

I would also replace the tensioner if you haven't already done so.

There's a great vfac on t-belt installation. I would follow the recommendations found there.
Please understand that you can rotate the tensioner pulley either way to tension the belt. The correct way is spelled out in the vfac. It's possible to get the correct tension, and not have the belt wrapping/engaging the maximum number of intake cam gear teeth.

Don't just automatically assume it bent the valves, you may have gotten lucky.....

If nothing got hurt, buy a lottery ticket.

 

[PieEyedPiper]

You won't know the why or how bad until you do a visual inspection with the covers off.

Begin by NOT turning the engine over AT ALL.

Dissassemble everything back to the t-belt installation phase.

Look at the crank position. determine where tdc is, and turn the crank away from tdc temporarily so you can reset the cams to their orientation at tdc #1. (both dowel pins straight up) You don't want to turn the cams with the crank at tdc, because the valves will hit the pistons...

Now, you can bring the crank back up to tdc #1 and install the belt normally and check compression and/or leakdown.


I would strongly recommend a new mitsu. belt. If it skipped, it probably damaged a couple of teeth on the belt, even though it may be hard to see.

I would also replace the tensioner if you haven't already done so.

There's a great vfac on t-belt installation. I would follow the recommendations found there.
Please understand that you can rotate the tensioner pulley either way to tension the belt. The correct way is spelled out in the vfac. It's possible to get the correct tension, and not have the belt wrapping/engaging the maximum number of intake cam gear teeth.

Don't just automatically assume it bent the valves, you may have gotten lucky.....

If nothing got hurt, buy a lottery ticket.

excellent advice. I just wanted to add, if you had a shop do it make them come pick up your car and fix their mess.

 

[1TUFFDSM]

You won't know the why or how bad until you do a visual inspection with the covers off.

Begin by NOT turning the engine over AT ALL.

Dissassemble everything back to the t-belt installation phase.

Look at the crank position. determine where tdc is, and turn the crank away from tdc temporarily so you can reset the cams to their orientation at tdc #1. (both dowel pins straight up) You don't want to turn the cams with the crank at tdc, because the valves will hit the pistons...

Now, you can bring the crank back up to tdc #1 and install the belt normally and check compression and/or leakdown.


I would strongly recommend a new mitsu. belt. If it skipped, it probably damaged a couple of teeth on the belt, even though it may be hard to see.

I would also replace the tensioner if you haven't already done so.

There's a great vfac on t-belt installation. I would follow the recommendations found there.
Please understand that you can rotate the tensioner pulley either way to tension the belt. The correct way is spelled out in the vfac. It's possible to get the correct tension, and not have the belt wrapping/engaging the maximum number of intake cam gear teeth.

Don't just automatically assume it bent the valves, you may have gotten lucky.....

If nothing got hurt, buy a lottery ticket.

thanks for the info

like i said it was on for a total of 10 sec, the job was done 5 months ago, replaced the tentioner and the t-belt with a good year belt, we did have some problems wit that pulley tho, the hydo tentioner was relased without the pulley being tentioned,then the guy went back in with the belt on and just adjused the pulley,

then i was tight again idk if that messed it up or wut.