no power after 4500

[timloomis]

just seems like the engine falls on its face after that,not like the top end power that turbos have.i just put the accel wires on and the engine has about 700 miles on it.and my bov doesnt go "woosh" all the time.i though it wasnt opening fully,so i backed the spring out a bit.also,it has insane power in the moring when i start the car,then it just seems like it dies off.my logger isnt giving any knock and the low and high fuel trims are lean(117 high,138 low),mid is right at 100.my 02 is around .85 to .87 at wot.i did a boost leak test with a bike pump,obviously didnt get much psi in there,but i did find a bad vaccuum line and what i think are the lower injector seals leaking.my boost gauge shows 11.5-12 psi solid.does this just sound like a boost leak somewhere,just enough to keep the psi strong,but not the volume?mods in profile.

 

[rabenne]

I am have the exact same problem, but i cant find the leak, test to 20psi.... i only run 12, and the gauge sticks strong... but like he said, it feels like the volume is gone.. if i keep it around 5 psi using the throttle to keep it low, it will pull to 7000 hard and quick... but as soon as i open the throttle past around 60% it feels like its chained to a tree, or draggin an anchor (like that stupid sludge commercial... please give suggestions...please

 

[N1balla16]

Try checking your timing marks

 

[timloomis]

timing is right on 5* and the cams still line up.the thing hauls ass untill the engine starts to warm up,but it still runs 12 psi when it hauls.itll go from roasting 3rd to studdering and shaking when i take off from a stop.

 

[v2ner]

BOV not sounding off? So you're not building much boost? Check the WG actuator arm and see if the pin is still in place.

 

[timloomis]

the pin is there and my boost gauge still reads a solid 12 psi.its just when it starts to get warm.i thought the egr was opening under boost,so i removed it,but the problem is still there.but the bov doenst go "woosh" once it warms up either.like the volume isnt there to open it up.and i can hear it open and make squirrley sounds when its under vaccuum when i shift,before the turbo even spools.

 

[timloomis]

could this be a fuel pump/fpr/ecu issue?

 

[timloomis]

turns out to be my lower injector seals.20psi down to 0 in about 10 seconds with my leak tester.thanx guys.

 

[v2ner]

Sorry for not being able to help much and thanks for posting the outcome.

 

[timloomis]

oh well,you gave some ideas so thats all that matters.im glad its something small though.

 

[wvturbo2]

arent u supposed to wait till the car is at operating temp. to start boosting?

 

[rabenne]

what type of leak tester, I need me one of them!! That sounds like a useful tool. thanks

 

[Talesin]

VFAQ is your friend.

http://www.vfaq.com/mods/ICtester.html

And yes, you're supposed to let the car warm up so the piston rings have time to seat, and more importantly so the lifters and turbo have time to lubricate themselves. Unless you're running a ball bearing turbo (and very few are), then the 'axle' between the turbine and compressor just rides on a thin film of hot oil, which is maintained through oil pressure. If you just start and take off, you'll cause undue wear to your thrust bearing, get shaft play, and kill your turbo. It's not that great for the rest of your engine to be subjected to boost while still just 'waking up' as it were.
Drives me nuts to see people who turn the key and take off at full throttle less than ten seconds later.

 

[rabenne]

that link is all good and well, and I have the exact same parts on mine... but the question I suppose is how did you test the injector lower seals with an intake compression tester? Pretty sure you dont... what type of pressure tester tests the injector seals?

 

[timloomis]

i used the vfaq tire valve,pvc cap,and 2.5" coupler.just pump it up to 20 psi and find where the hiss comes from.i could wiggle the injectors a bit and the hissing would change,so i know thats what it is.
i wait a few minutes before boosting also.i was talking like 2 minutes or so down the road.

 

[Talesin]

Well, you CAN check your lower injector seals with it. Just have to make sure that there's no valve overlap happening, and open your throttle plate. Allows the intake manifold and two cylinders to be pressurized. Again, only go to about 20psi. Personally I'd just replace the lower seals (and upper at the same time) if they were in doubt. It's only like $12 for a full set from RRE.

 

[rabenne]

that makes sense completely, you must just get the correct crank angle before hand then switch for the other companion pair. thanks for that interesting and useful tip.