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Restart problems - ECU? - Short?

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Eagle91

Probationary Member
4
0
Apr 29, 2006
Roanoke, Virginia
:talon: History: Car ran fine until water pump blew out, (yes that's coolant all over the left side or the engine compartment). I had a mechanic replace waterpump as well as timing belt and all tensioners and pulleys while everything was apart.
I'm pretty sure he installed the balancer shaft belt with shafts 180 degrees out. He swears he went by the books he had and that mine were installed by the dealer wrong when timing belt was replaced several years ago.
I now have major vibration that was not there before.
Main problem:
Shortly after getting the car back it wouldn't start again after I shut it off until the motor completely cooled down. It always cranks and started fine when cold but would not restart until it cooled off again.
Ran OK . . . a bit rough but OK like it needed new plugs, then completely died one evening. I had error codes for the CAS, ISC and TPS all at the same time.
Replaced ECU and inspected the old unit. Capacitors had been leaking as well as major components totally fried. Car still won't start after it warms up and I had no error codes after installing the new ECU. After motor got up to temp I shut it down and it wouldn't restart . . . still cranks like hell with the Optima battery but will not start. I haven't tried restarting again in hopes that I may save the new ECU.
What should I be looking for and is it likely that I've fried a new ECU?
HELP!:cry:
 
I checked the ECU codes again after replacing it with the rebuilt unit. NowI have 2error codes . . . a #14 which is the TPS and a #22which is the CPS.
I've pulled them both as well as the throttle body for cleaning and testing.
The car was running really rough with alot of idle surge when I restarted it today.
Yesterday it was running pretty good until I finally shut it off and then no restart again.
I didn't see any codes at that time either, just short flashes without interruption.
I couldn't find much that was out of place. A wire was left offthe AC compressor sensor and it looks like the O-ring on my ISC motor was pinched/crushed so I'll replace that after testin the ISC while it's out. I'll let you know what I find. I just can't figure how all this stuff got fried. Could the ECU have shorted out from leaking capacitors and trashed these sensors or something else. Any info would be appreciated.
 
Just in case anyone is checking back on this . . .
Looks like the CAS, (CPS) is bad as well as the TPS.
I'll replace both and address a couple other issues such as the mashed O-ring on the SAC.
I just hope the newly rebuilt ECU didn't get re-fried.
Question:
Could the ECU have caused the CAS and TPS to get cooked or does this generally happen the other way around? I need to know if I should be looking for another ghost here such as a short in the wiring some place.:confused:
 
Just in case anyone is interested . . .
The Crank position sensor/cam angle sensor turned out ot be the problem, along with the capacitors in the ECU leaking and shorting out some components.
The error codes continued after replacing the ECU and the sensors it indicated as being bad, (TPS, CPS and ISC) tested fine with the exception of the CPS which was bad.
There also seem to be a number of small things wrong, mostly vacume related that contributed to various maladies such as idle surge, poor gas mileage and inconsistent performance. This thing is running better than ever. I can't wait to give it a full test run and will as soon as my mechanic has addressed the vibration issue.
CONCLUSION: If you want it done right . . . do it yourself!:thumb:
 
Eagle91 said:
...my mechanic has addressed the vibration issue.:
The oil pump sprocket can be 360 degrees off (yes it CAN be 360 off due to the rear counter balance shaft runs at half speed off of it). Read step 24 of the following carefully (and the Note after it): http://www.vfaq.com/mods/timingbelt-1G.html
Eagle91 said:
CONCLUSION: If you want it done right . . . do it yourself!:thumb:
ALWAYS ROFL
 
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