throttle position 11% with no gas???

[loopdogg007]

hey guys just posting up thinking someone could help me out. i've been having some idling problems and was gonna start troubleshooting my car. however, before i even start i noticed that on my datalogger my trottle position shows 11% without even engaging the gas pedal. i hate to sound like a newb (i am) but could this be causing my idle problems? my car likes to stall occasionally when im coming up to or at a stop, which is of course symptoms of idle surge. ill apologize first if this question is redundant but i just wanted some input before i start troubleshooting my whole car!

 

[JLangevin]

Sounds like the TPS (Throttle Position Sensor) is out of adjustment... the correct way to calibrate the TPS is to measure it with an Ohm Meter... I forget what the factory voltage is supposed to be... but for starters, you can at least losen the tps sensor and rotate it a little until your logger shows around 2%. The logger is getting its info directly from the TPS itself.

In case you didnt know, the TPS is mounted directly to the Throttle Body, facing the front of the car. I hope this helped.

 

[loopdogg007]

thanks. me and a bud will doing this tonite and i will post up a follow-thru as to what happens. i've been reading about the tps so it shouldN'T be hard to do it. ill probably go get me a cheapo ohmeter in a little bit. your response is appreciated!

 

[Nautica985]

from digitaltuning.com

Throttle Position:

Range: 0 to 100%

The position of the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) on the throttle body. The % should directly corrolate to the gas pedal position. If the signal jumps around (usually happens at a single throttle position, but can happen at any time) then you could have a bad TPS sensor. This would cause bucking or hesitation while driving. The TPS signal should be about 9 - 10% at closed throttle. If it doesn't, a throttle cable or butterfly adjustment is necessary.

The Apex-i S-AFC uses the minimum and maximum TPS voltage it sees as 0% and 100% so the number displayed on the AFC will not match the TPS value on the PocketLOGGER. Since the TPS on a DSM never gets below ~10%, the AFC thinks that that value should be 0%. The ECU is smarter and knows that the TPS can go lower, but due to the mechanical design of the throttle body, the actual TPS value never drops below 10%.

 

[steve]

On a 1G 11% is only a tad off.

The specification for the TPS is 0.48v to 0.52v at ide which works out to about 10%.

You should be looking at your ISC, BISS, and IPS for your idle problems. The TPS reading 11% isn't going to cause the car to die or surge.

Steve

 

[loopdogg007]

On a 1G 11% is only a tad off.

The specification for the TPS is 0.48v to 0.52v at ide which works out to about 10%.

You should be looking at your ISC, BISS, and IPS for your idle problems. The TPS reading 11% isn't going to cause the car to die or surge.

Steve

welll all the work done was last night so i was just able to read this. and well it has come apparent that my idle problem wasnt at the tps position. last night we positioned the tps to read 8% on my datalogger, this also allowed the WOT to stay at %100 (any lower than 8% and my WOT would stay under %100). i will readjust to %10 as well as check with an ohmeter once i get a chance. i will also check the other items that would affect my idleing. it seems my idle problem happens at sporratic times, its not consistent, sometimes it will want to shutoff at decelerations or at a stop, sometimes it won't........im not too worried about it at the moment.

i would like to add that last night my buddy and i removed the 2g maf and installed the gm maf/maft setup (first for both of us!) my new bugger is tuning the lo throttle settings!!!! hey guys thanks a lot and for sure i will check the ISC, BISS, and IPS this week. i know those are the things to look at i just wasnt sure if that %11 was causing it.

 

[TerminalTalon]

I also have a problem with the tps I think. I recently rebuilt my 78mm throttle body because there was a whistling from the shaft. I changed out the o-rings and reinstalled. The whistling was back and was even worse and now it idles at 1500-1600 rpm and just keeps on going up. My safc reads 8-9% at the turn of the key with out the car started. I dont know if I messed up the tps when I reinstalled it, but I rebuilt the TB again and the same. I have already decided on getting a BBK throttle body because I rebuilt it twice without getting anywhere. Now do I need to spend $240 on a tps. Please help me out

 

[xveganxcowboyx]

Steve has the good info. My TPS is set at .49-.50 and reads 9.7% on the logger. Don't go by percent, use the voltage.

The TPS range is 0-5 volts so .5 volts = 10%

Also, I believe 95% and above is WOT so don't worry if you dip a tad below 100%.

 

[2fast4]

I also have a problem with the tps I think. I recently rebuilt my 78mm throttle body because there was a whistling from the shaft. I changed out the o-rings and reinstalled. The whistling was back and was even worse and now it idles at 1500-1600 rpm and just keeps on going up. My safc reads 8-9% at the turn of the key with out the car started. I dont know if I messed up the tps when I reinstalled it, but I rebuilt the TB again and the same. I have already decided on getting a BBK throttle body because I rebuilt it twice without getting anywhere. Now do I need to spend $240 on a tps. Please help me out

Sounds somewhat similar. I had injector o-rings shrink over time and was whistling coming off boost. But the idle was solid though. But you got different throttle all together.

You "should" do pressure or vacuum test after changing seals.