Narrowed it down...

[2GSOCAL]

Ok, ive been having problems with my 90 awd since i rebuilt it. It was getting no fuel pressure, even after i installed a 255hp pump. so i bought the aeromotive afpr and i got the fuel pressure up with that to where it needs to be (around 37 psi). I took out all four spark plugs and hooked them up to the wire and cranked, and all four sparked off the body, i even took the fuel rail out with the injectors in it and put paper cups underneath them and they all squirted out even amounts of fuel. so i got fuel, spark, air(new K&N, now it has to be the timing, when i looked at the timing yesterday, it appeared off 2 teeth. would that be enough to prevent it from cranking? also a while ago i hooked jumper cables up wrong polarity and someone told me it might have switched the polarity in the some hardware in the ECU possibly? i dunno, also the fuel pump doesnt prime when i put the key to "ON" but when i turn the key to start it, the pressure jumps up to 37-40 psi, and stays, THEN when i let go of the key and it goes back to on (after not starting) the fuel pump then makes the noise and primes, (AFTER i let go of the key when it doesnt start) i got the relay hooked up exactly how its supposed to be @ vfaq.com (both walkthrus). Its getting power back there at relay post 30 at all time, even when engine is off, ### its hooked up to the battery post direct and fused. 87 gets power after i turn the key to "start" not on. so the pump doesnt prime at on, why might the pump not be recieving its power when i put it to on and why does it recieve the power to prime after i go to on from start? Sorry this is so long i just want to provide details to get the best help, thanks all always guys! Martin Gray

 

[GTM]

Ok, ive been having problems
...
i hooked jumper cables up wrong polarity and someone told me it might have switched the polarity in the some hardware in the ECU possibly?
...
i dunno, also the fuel pump doesnt prime when i put the key to "ON" but when i turn the key to start it, the pressure jumps up to 37-40 psi, and stays, THEN when i let go of the key and it goes back to on (after not starting) the fuel pump then makes the noise and primes, (AFTER i let go of the key when it doesnt start) i got the relay hooked up exactly how its supposed to be @ vfaq.com (both walkthrus). Its getting power back there at relay post 30 at all time, even when engine is off, ### its hooked up to the battery post direct and fused. 87 gets power after i turn the key to "start" not on. so the pump doesnt prime at on, why might the pump not be recieving its power when i put it to on and why does it recieve the power to prime after i go to on from start? Sorry this is so long i just want to provide details to get the best help, thanks all always guys! Martin Gray

Hooking jumper cables up wrong can't be good if you left it that way for more than a second or so especially if you turned or had the key to on.
.....................

I would like to confine this to solving 1 problem at a time. You may have a can of worms that embrace several problems and run the possibilities into some radical logarithmic scale for findiing solutions.

I have no idea what you may have done with the fuel pump wires. You may or may not have a problem with the new rewire. By Federal law the pump _may not_ operate in the _on_ position UNLESS the engine is running. This is controlled by an oil pressure switch which allows the pump relay to operate when there is oil pressure. Only in the crank (start) mode will this be bypassed and activate the relay.

You mention that you hear the pump running after a no start, this occurs when you build oil pressure (usually a cold engine) sufficient for the oil pressure switch to complete the relay circuit. After a few seconds the oil pressure will bleed off and the circuit will open and the pump relay will not be energized. Turning the key to off the pump will not be operational, if these thing do not happen you have wired something wrong.

Check this thoroughly for I don't want any short cuts taken only to find out some 20 posts later that something was overlooked.

Let me explain that a relay doesn't care which polarity is used to activate the coil. However, on a few rare occasions I have seen them take a slight magnatism such that the coil is not strong enough to pull the contacts into position when they have been subjected to a reverse polarity. The involved relays will have to be identified as performing correctly, the battery condition must meet minimum specifications for once that starter kicks in you will have voltage drop.

Did the car ever run after the rebuild?

Cheers,
GTM

 

[2GSOCAL]

Yea the car has ran a few time, i drove it and it kept stalling when i would take my foot off the gas, after boosting, but it was a dirty tank with dirty fuel, which i think is what messed up the pump, but i fixed that, after that the car ran twice and sat for about 20-30 mins before stalling and not starting again. As far as the fuel pump not making the noise on the on position and you mention oil pressure. Isnt the pump supposed to make the noise when you put the key to on to prime it? Well thats what it does after the failure to start. Thanks for the help

 

[femmeDSM]

I'm going to go with GTM here on the idea that we should take this one step at a time. But just a few quick answers to a couple of your questions.......

Isnt the pump supposed to make the noise when you put the key to on to prime it?

No. (GTM elaborated on this, read his post again ).
The fuel pump does not run with KOEO - only START or RUN.

Also...Re Jumper cables on backwards.....
You will blow your Alt fuse 99% of the time here. It's the black 80A fuse in the main fuse box under the hood. Check that out.

when i looked at the timing yesterday, it appeared off 2 teeth. would that be enough to prevent it from cranking?

No, I can't see why that would prevent it from cranking.
It WOULD make it run like poo (as you described earlier...Stalling, hesitating, missing, etc).

 

[GTM]

I'm going to go with GTM here on the idea that we should take this one step at a time.

Also...Re Jumper cables on backwards.....
You will blow your Alt fuse 99% of the time here. It's the black 80A fuse in the main fuse box under the hood. Check that out.


No, I can't see why that would prevent it from cranking.
It WOULD make it run like poo (as you described earlier...Stalling, hesitating, missing, etc).

Hmmm, I'll have to draw the diode pack out and regulator to see why the Alt fuse might blow.

If his intake cam is too far advanced the timing will be advanced. If it fires way to early it will try to force the piston back down against the starter rotation. This will give the impression of not cranking at an acceptable rpm. The giveaway is a lot of noise from the intake as the valve overlap favors the intake side. Since the intake opening is always chasing the exhaust closing there is a special danger of fouling valves when too far advanced.

If you have this condition don't panic, rotate the crank approx 90 degrees AFTER TDC and pop all the cam followers out so the intakes cannot open. This way you won't bump pistons or exhaust valves and you can now set the intak cam to the correct position. When you are ready again set the crank to 90 degrees ATDC and put the cam followers back in making sure they are properly seated on the valve pads and the adjusters. Pull it thorugh by hand to check your work.

Just use common sense and think things through, if your brain is getting cluttered walk away from the job until you fully understand what is needed for this is not the time to be in a rush. I have been successful doing this without having to pull the cover on several occasions for various engines by keeping tension on the belt and then working it slowly on and off the gears one at a time when the cam followers were out. You can stick it in top gear so the crank won't rotate any significant amount while slipping the belt forward on both gears and keeping tension on the belt.

Let us know what you find.

Cheers,
GTM

 

[2GSOCAL]

Well, i got her going, what i did was put starting fluid in the intake, and it eventually started, it was running like crap until i let it run itself smooth...

 

[elementalwindx]

No, I can't see why that would prevent it from cranking.
It WOULD make it run like poo (as you described earlier...Stalling, hesitating, missing, etc).

Isnt the limit 1 tooth before you start bending valves depending on how much of the head/block is shaved off and the thickness of the head gasket? Just a question! and if that question is true, can't bent valves cause the car not to start