The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

Opps.. I didn't know!

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

LilRedRocket

15+ Year Contributor
33
0
Mar 3, 2006
London,
Well as you guys see from my past posts, I've had some problems with my Oil light. Well I was looking up on what oil I should even be using in my car since I switched it to Full synthetic oil. Keep in mind I had no Idea what kind was in the car when I bought it and I had the oil changed and I used just regular 10w 30. then I switched it to a semi synthetic oil the next round. I had no clue about cars a year ago when I bought my laser so I didn't see the harm I was causing. Winter was coming and it was time to change the oil so I put in 5w 30 regular oil and come spring I changed it to full synthetic 5w30. I read last night on a web site that it is harmful to switch without using a flushing oil first like 0w 20. then pour the full synthetic oil in. It said that the synthetic oil will loosen the deposits that the mineral oil builds up over the years on the seals.

My question is could that be the cause of my oil light coming on and off flashing at curb idle, then going off when I give it gas? Do you guys think I have anything much to worry about? I just don't want to start replacing oil pumps and waterpumps if the seals might be going! My car is a 1990, And it has been doing good the past cpuple days, Oil has been full and the lights been off since I've pushed the little wires in, just pray for the best I guess!!!

Mike :laser:
 
Im gonna say no. But what does you oil pressure gauge go to. When i put in full synthetic i get real low oil pressure at idle but not low enough to turn the oil light on.
 
no, the type of oil would not set off your sensor. But i would continue running 10w30 until it hits winter or colder weather....then you can run 5w30. But why are you running sythetic?? If anything run partial synthetic, not full sythetic? How many miles are on your car???
 
My 1g has that problem too. Ive narrowed my problem down to my alternator. Some cars when they dont get enough voltage all the time their oil lights go on. I think its Mazda that does it also. I havent looked to much into it. My car runs fine but i know one of my diodes in my alternator is not working. I dont know if its the same problem for you. If you want go to advance and have them load test it. It will be interesting to see what it says.
 
LunarEclips said:
no, the type of oil would not set off your sensor. But i would continue running 10w30 until it hits winter or colder weather....then you can run 5w30. But why are you running sythetic?? If anything run partial synthetic, not full sythetic? How many miles are on your car???
It's good to run fully synthetic, but since you don't have a turbo car, you can get away with a synthetic blend like LunarEclips stated without any issues. :thumb:
 
Well my car has 230,000kms. I read that full synthetic was recomended. I use 5w30 in the winter and now my oil change is due in 2000kms I'll put 10w 30 in the spring. I don't think it's the alternator since I replaced it last summer. My oil pressure gauge sits around a 1/8 to 1/4 when idle. It's been good the past week knock on wood! I'm more worried about reading how switching straight from mineral to synthetic can weaken the seals! I don't know what was used in the car before and I used mineral oil when I first got the car..
Thanks for the help though guys!!
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Latest posts

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top