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JDM Cyclone engine

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baldbull

Probationary Member
12
2
Jul 5, 2004
Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania
Just a quick question for the experts. I am buying a 90 Gs-t with a cyclone engine. I have been out of the game for awhile, so I don't know what is different about the engine over a stock 2 ltr 4G63t. I haven't heard anything bad about the JDM's, so I am not being deterred from buying the car because of the swap, I just like to be informed. Any input on what the differences are ( internals, compatability, etc.) would be appreciated.
 
Auladan said:
Cyclone motors are only different from regular 4g63-T motors in that they have a Cyclone Intake Manifold.

The Cyclone Intake Manifold has dual (two) runners for each cylinder (four). Their is a butterfly system in place, much like the plate in the Throttle Body, that keeps half of the runners (the short ones) closed until a certain RPM/Boost is reached. Then they open.

It will only function properly with a JDM ECU, or a custom vacuum setup to direct the butterflies on boost pressure alone. Though, with the butterflies open, the Cyclone flows slightly less than the regular Intake Manifold. The only advantage to a Cyclone Intake is that you'll (supposedly) see higher torque and lower RPM, and slightly better gas mileage.

Other than that, the regular and 'Cyclone' motors are identical.

Taken from: http://www.dsmtuner.com/forums/showthread.php?t=125984&highlight=JDM+cyclone

Plenty more in that thread. Simple search will help. ;)

-Kevin-
 
kronus said:
Taken from: http://www.dsmtuner.com/forums/showthread.php?t=125984&highlight=JDM+cyclone

Plenty more in that thread. Simple search will help. ;)

-Kevin-

Sorry to bother you. I did a search, and what I was looking for didn't come up by entering 'jdm cyclone motor'. I appreciate the guidance to that link, but didn't need the sarcasm. Remember, there are some of us that know a lot about cars who just don't know everything about DSMs. I have owned 5 turbo DSMs and have never had to replace a motor or even consider an engine swap. I've heard plenty about cyclone engines, but I knew nothing about the differences between it and a stock turbo motor -- which is why I asked.
 
Its not a JDM cyclone motor, is a 4g63 with a cyclone intake. Only difference buddy. Japan has their computers setup different to run the cyclone intake, it has a dual runner system for better performance. BUT the us spec computers dont do that, so its virtually useless over here IMO.
 
importboost said:
Its not a JDM cyclone motor, is a 4g63 with a cyclone intake. Only difference buddy. Japan has their computers setup different to run the cyclone intake, it has a dual runner system for better performance. BUT the us spec computers dont do that, so its virtually useless over here IMO.

Not entirely useless... A friend of mine has a properly running Cyclone Manifold on his DSM. The extra low-end torque from the shorter runners is really nice during city driving. If I find the right deal, I plan on running one myself. :rocks:
 
OK, well, I rebuilt my engine about 2yrs. ago, but I have crap load of oil leak. So, IF I find a decent JDM engine, I plan to purchase it. Now for the helping part(this is where you guys come in)....Is it just drop in? I already have a JDM tranny from a VR-4. But do the sensors mix in? What about if I need to purchase parts for it? Where do I get them? How do I know that that a ECU is JDM?
Thanks
 
OK, still have not purchased engine, but not its smoking, so now i am forced and i think in about 1-2 months, I plan to buy it. Now I've seen COMPLETE JDM SWAPS, including, tranny, ECU, and engine. I just drop in the swap connect the ecu, and it should be running the intake runners just fine? Or are there special vacuum lines or something that need to be connected?
Thanks.
 
No, its not a direct drop in. There are several Key points to modify/swap out Not even to Mention trying to use the Cyclone. (Just swap on your usdm manifold) its by FAR easier by 1000000%

Power Transistor
Coil Packs
Coolant sensor
Oil pressure sensor
AC motor
TPS sensor
ext oil cooler (90 model)

The easiest model to swap ajdm into is the 90 model, because thats how the jdm is setup.

if you just pull of your USDM manifold and swap it on, you are taking care of the coil pack issues, the Power Transistor issues, the AC issues, ect ect.
 
Also, the JDM is setup for FMIC, so youll need to have your turbo outlet elbow thing.

and there is a slight chance your cas plugs wont match.
 
this_tsi_8urV8 said:
OK, still have not purchased engine, but not its smoking, so now i am forced and i think in about 1-2 months, I plan to buy it. Now I've seen COMPLETE JDM SWAPS, including, tranny, ECU, and engine. I just drop in the swap connect the ecu, and it should be running the intake runners just fine? Or are there special vacuum lines or something that need to be connected?
Thanks.


Not trying to pile on more sarcasm and Bitchiness for you to wade though this morning, but YES this question is Identical to 3 i have read on this forum this week., And i posted in all of them, aswell as many other members.

The tranny will need you to modify your shifter cables.
some have just swapped the bracket that holds the cables tranny side with some success.

When i did mine, It was a Full JDM swap aswell as a 5 speed swap in a 91 awd.
I used shifter and cables out of a 1993 1.8 liter talon. custom adjusted the cable end on 1 cable. and ended up with a super short shifter. No one could believe it wasnt some high dollor aftermarket setup.

Look in the Tech articles of this forum.there are 2 postings of cyclone installation, one using the ecu, and one using another method. you cant just drop it in and hook it up, search for JDM SWAP, or other variants of the same idea.

the jdm has no emissions, the TB only has 1 port. No EGR

WTF how hard did you search?'
 
Quote from
90GSX-03EVO09-21-2004, 03:09 PM (From Machv boards)

I've had numerous gearhead friends that have moved to and from Japan through the military. They've all told me the same thing. Do not buy JDM motors. There are many reasons for this.

It isn't that they can only put aprox 30,000 miles on each motor because of emissions or anything, but more like this: Gas is expensive as hell in Japan. People don't drive their cars everywhere like we do in the US. a 10 year old car in Japan might only have the equivalent of 20,000 miles on the odometer. They use mass transit and scooters/bikes/feet to get to most places. The Japanese variant of the DMV inspects vehicles and looks for a lot of things. Rust is one of the most popular. Japanese cars do not have the same thick paint that most US cars have. Because of this, surface rust is very common after a couple of years. Japan is surrounded by salt water, after all. Surface rust on a car's exterior in Japan is enough to fail an inspection. You can either repair the car or sell it to be s c r a p p e d (Because the 2nd,3rd,4th,and 5th letters in "s C R A P ped" get the ****** if I don't space it out like that.) and parted out.

Japanese engines run on a different fuel, per se. They have different emissions standards and the ECU is mapped a bit differently. Will this affect how the engine runs in the US? Maybe. Ever ran a car with conventional oil for 30,000 miles and then switched over to synthetic? It might be good, it might be bad.

I don't think it's the fact that the motor has had the living piss beat out of it. I think it is because it grew up in Japan, then sat in a field for who-knows-how-long until it was put on a boat and freighted half way around the globe to be installed in a different car, then fed a different type of food, and taught a new language. I'd have trouble adjusting to changes like that, too.
 
I have a JDM tranny. I did have to replace the shifter levers on the tranny housing to work w/my 1990 style shifter, so that is not a problem. As far as the everything else not dropping in? Well I was told it was a complete swap. Meaning: complete longblock, with ALL accesories and sensors, tranny, ecu, and harness. But in order to make the cyclone intake to work, I know, that I will be needing the ECU. Besides the ECU what else do I need? Make vacuum connections that maybe the USDM does not have?
My brother bought a JDM engine and his came out perfect. Granted it is an N/A for a Honda. I want the cyclone intake b/c of the better low end torque and better boost. Why would I buy a JDM if not for that? Thanks, it did enlighten me a bit though.
 
this_tsi_8urV8 said:
I want the cyclone intake b/c of the better low end torque and better boost. Why would I buy a JDM if not for that? Thanks, it did enlighten me a bit though.

What do you mean better boost?

The only time i noticed more low end power was stuff like climbin up my driveway and stuff.

the only other thing you would need is the Cyclone actuator off the firewall mount on the galant jdm vr4's

It looks like an EGR solenoid.
 
for a complete JDM vacuum diagram it looks like this.

but as far as my previous post, its not a 100% swap, what they mean they are giving you everything, engine, ecu, bla bla bla.

its still up to you to make it work.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.


This is a pic taken from my tech article in the tech section. did you read these articles?


This was Taken directly from the underhood Sticker on my JDM front clip swap i got years ago, it was cleared and translated. Wanna see the origional?
 

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The jdm galants have the Solenoids Mounted on the Air Can.

do you need to MAKE SURE they send them to you, some dealers will just pull them off and lay them on the motor and wire them down,

others have a "whatever isnt bolted on gets cut off" attitude.
 

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baldbull said:
Sorry to bother you. I did a search, and what I was looking for didn't come up by entering 'jdm cyclone motor'. I appreciate the guidance to that link, but didn't need the sarcasm. Remember, there are some of us that know a lot about cars who just don't know everything about DSMs. I have owned 5 turbo DSMs and have never had to replace a motor or even consider an engine swap. I've heard plenty about cyclone engines, but I knew nothing about the differences between it and a stock turbo motor -- which is why I asked.
The sarcasm you pointed out was pretty innocent. The guy simply did a search on his own and pointed you to his results. This discussion is quite popular and as others have said, this very question has probably been asked 3 times this week alone. If someone finds the answer for you by doing a search, I'd cut them a little slack, as they're only trying to help. If they weren't trying to help, they wouldn't have taken the time to do the search on their own. They're just letting you know that they found the answer by doing a search - which is what we ask people to do.

Lordpaxin has gone into great detail to help you out. I'd thank him if I were you.

To everyone: if you don't find your answer using one search term combination, try a few different search term combinations before you give up and ask. The answers are usually there. I typically try 3-5 different search combinations. You have to be creative sometimes.
 
OOPs, sorry, should have been more precise. I meant that it gives you better spool up, hence the better boost.
If i do not get the solenoids on the air can, will it not work?
LORDPAXIN: Where did you buy your clip? I do not want to buy a clip, but if they sold you Everything needed, then I would like to speak with them.
Thanks.
 
YOU NEED the Cyclone Solenoid located on the air can on the JDM galants to use the manifold in 100% factory setting.

Without it you need to run an alternate setup like is posted in the tech articles.

the guy i got mine from is now n jail for ebay fraud with jdm engines and clips. LOL.

rjctrading or jdmliquidators


Note: The egr and cyclone solenoids are identical is appearance.
its been theorized they can be substituded. I cant verify this, mabye you can check into it.


JUST SWAP ## USDM MANIFOLD
 
Or you can use your FPR Solenoid and an EPROM chip...

http://www.dsmchips.com/cyclone.html

"I now have complete control of all 4 of the DSM solenoid outputs! So, for only $25 more, I can program any one of them to control a spare FPR solenoid to act as a Cyclone Intake Controller. The default settings are for the solenoid to be activated at <4100 rpm, on the Purge Solenoid wiring harness.
So, how does it work? Well, just connect a good vacuum source to the one side of the Cyclone one-way vacuum canister, the side that you CAN'T blow into. Then, route the vacuum signal to the Normally Open port on the end of the FPR solenoid. This is the horizontal port on the end by itself.
Next, route another vacuum line from the COMMON port, sticking up vertically from the FPR solenoid, to the Cyclone diaphragm.
That's it! Normally, below 4100 rpm, the solenoid will allow the vacuum signal to pass through to the Cyclone diaphragm, keeping the secondaries closed. However, by 4100 rpm, the solenoid is energized, capping off the vacuum in the canister, and backventing the vacuum in the Cyclone diaphragm to atmosphere, through the vent cap on the end of the FPR solenoid.
This makes for a very clean and accurate way to activate the Cyclone secondaries, in the same manor that the factory JDM ECU's did it."


That is what I'm ordering next week to run my cyclone (along with a few other goodies). :thumb:
 
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