best value for spark wires performance for $

[corwininadsm]

Hey my car coughs (cuts power for one second under boost (19psi) for a 1/4 of a sec ) and i wanted to get some new plug wires and make sure that isnt the problem. does anyone have any idea for the best plug wires. i am curious what people think are the best and also curious what people think is the best value.

Im curious about the

NGK wires
msd wires

they both look good

any help would be good

 

[foreverinvayne]

There's a few things you need to consider with your wires.

1. Resistance. the less, the better. It's what keeps the current from getting to the spark plug. It's the number one thing to think about when thinking performance for your wires.

2. Ability to hold up when removing them and reinstalling them. I've used some pretty crappy wires where all I've wnated to do is just take it off the plug to take the plugs out after just a few thousand miles and have them all just fall apart and need to get new wires right away.

3. Interference. This is really no longer an issue ### pretty much all wires are insulated enough not to interfere with pretty much anything.

Now for my 2 cents... my best luck was with accel's for the money. I got a set of the #7920's off of ebay for like $24 bucks brand new and I even ohm'd them out and they got about 200 ohms of resistance per foot... if that. I can't remember the exact numbers. But that's really good for such a price. I know the MSD's are even better, but for a set of those I would have ended up paying about 3-4 times as much. at school (universal technical institute) on all of the small blocks we build in class we use MSD wires and they seem to work great. Most of the time you're just going to get what you're paying for, but if u pay attention and get lucky you might find soemthing that works great for ya that you didn't have to pay an arm and a leg for. That's why I'm glad I went the accels.

Now as for the NGK wires... got no clue . And there is a section of the forums where they tested a bunch of different wires and got the resistance for them and displayed their results for everyone to see.

 

[gthompson97]

I'm sorry, but I have never got bitten by the "less resistance is better" bug. People are measuring resistance with a good ol' multimeter. That's fine and dandy, but why not measure the voltage drop between a set of wires with 2000 ohms/foot and a set with 200 ohms/foot WHILE sending 35,000-40,000 volts through it and under real world conditions. Is the voltage drop going to make that much of a difference?

depending how much drop, it can start to have an effect. i don't think that msd and ngk just make regular wires and sell them for more and just tell people they are a better wire, there's actually some performance rating behind everything.

 

[corwininadsm]

hey thanks guys ill try and find some accel's
thanks for letting me know their was a previous post i found the info on the wires if you guys want
MSD Ignition 8.5mm Super Conductor (40-50 ohms/ft)
Accel Thundersport (150 ohms/ft)
Taylor 8mm Spiro Pro (350 ohm/ft)
Aurora ignition wire set (400 ohms/ft)
Vitek Performance Cables (their web site does not mention resistance, but John Monnin measured them at about 800 ohms/ft; the label under Vitek's braiding says "Magstar Gold 8mm High Performance S-4 Stainless Steel Mag Wire" - thanks John!; Magstar wires are manufactured by Wiretec)
Wiretec Magstar Gold (800 ohms/ft as measured by John Monnin)
NGK Resistor Spark Plug Wire Set (2600 ohms/ft)
Mitsubishi factory wire sets (3000++ ohms/ft)
Car Quest brand wire sets (3000++ ohms/ft - Thanks to Bret for measuring these wires.)
Magnecor KV85 (6000++ ohms/ft)

 

[knighteclipse1]

I'm currently using 8.5 mm Magnacore and am unimpressed with them as well, I feel the extra money they cost would have been better spent someplace else. I personally believe that the NGK plug wires would be fine. But thats just my opinion. I will probably go with COP set up when I go to make more power.

 

[corwininadsm]

yah i really want a coil on plug setup. and ill probably need it when i upgrade to a fp green. but hopefully those accel plugs will work well enough with my 16g and 20psi. i just bought some for 30 shipped off ebay. i think they are yellow but i dont really care that much i guess my engine bay will just be a hodgepodge of colors. with my fmic (blue couplers but i dont like blue) (yellow wires, dont really like yellow on a black car) and whatever color vacuume lines i go with. (prob black or silver)

 

[ECLIPSE4x4]

I have been using the accel's myself and I have had no problems with them.

I had one problem recently under boost at high RPM's the car would break up. I started out with the plugs. Got new ones and gapped them to .025 and the car runs like a dream now.

 

[corwininadsm]

yah i should replace my plugs to make sure. but i just replaced them like 1000 miles ago with ngk bpr7eix (iridium) and those shouldnt be fouled. but i have a extra set of normal ngk copper bpr7's ill drop em en when i get time.

 

[ECLIPSE4x4]

Yes, get rid of the iridium plugs as fast as you can. The percentage of people who have had good expierences with them to the bad expierences is pretty low.

 

[corwininadsm]

yah ill switch em out tomorow. im also gonna pressure test my intake too. thanks for the advice.

 

[corwininadsm]

heard anything bad about bpr7es-11's as long as you gap them. im gapping to .26

 

[keymaster]

Unless you're running wicked high boost, gap them at .028". Also, to whomever said they wanted to go with a COP setup. Totally unnecessary. The stock ignition system has gotten people, I believe, into the 8's. You won't NEED it going with a FP Green, it's only a 50-trim. The stock ignition is more than capable.

 

[corwininadsm]

well i put in new plugs (non iridium) gapped to .25 and totally leaktested my system and i found a coupleleaks
isc screw, and pcv valve. so i got a new mitsu pcv valve and got a new washer for my isc screw. and its still acting like its misfiring or hitting fuel cut. (not sure of the exact difference).
it feels faster which is great but its still happening.
tested it again and have a very slow leak from my gasket between the 16g and the j pipe and a rediculously small leak from the threads of my adjustable fuel regulator, and my new mitsu pcv valve leaks too . so i think imjust gonna weld that shut eventually but i plugged it with a socket extender and had no leaks from it and took a test drive and noticed no change.
so basically now i need another gasket for my j pipe and need to put some teflon tape onthe threads of my afpr but i still dont think those small leaks will make me not hit fuel cut (if thats whats happening)

so i think im gonna take out the bottom honeycomb of my 2g maf and maybe up the fuel pressure to like 43-44 (at 42 now plus 510cc's) i heard that those 3'intakes on evo's make them run hella rich so mine might be aiding with the fuel cut but shouldnt but the culprit.

all i can say is i need dsmlink. or atleast some kind of fuel tuning.

plug wires should get here whenever they get here. ill try those as soon as i can

 

[ECLIPSE4x4]

Why did you gap them to .025?????

Gap them to .028

 

[corwininadsm]

ok i have like 8 more lyin around i havent gapped yet. but does it really make a difference. i just figured i would gap them smaller since i needed to make sure i got a spark.

 

[ECLIPSE4x4]

Evidentally or else they would't have it broken down then would they?????

 

[snyper1982]

http://store.summitracing.com/partd...638+4294924744+400122+4294905981&autoview=sku


65 bucks for some msd wires.

 

[ECLIPSE4x4]

Thats a good price for MSD wires.

 

[snyper1982]

Heck yeah it is. I searched all over the net for some good wires. Finally stoped in at summit, and figured they would be higher than the rest, and they had the best price I could find. I think they are even cheaper now than when I bought mine.

 

[corwininadsm]

yah i would spring for the msd wires if i had the extra cash but i already spent like 350 on stuff for my car this month so the accels will have to do. but the msd's were my first choice

 

[corwininadsm]

allright update to whats been goin on for me.
i decided to do the pentiometer mod since i have a 1g cas in a 2g and it is also known as the dime store fuel cut defender.
so far no more fuel cut (havent noticed any random misfires either but ive only driven it for like 20 mins
so yayyy

but....

now my coolant temp gauge doesnt work (reads cold all the time and heater feels hot)

I figured my coolant level was low because i swapped throttle bodies to the one i had put new bushings in.
so before i went out to check for any more misfires i added some water just cause i meant to do it earlier.
it overflowed acouple times but it wasnt anything massive (like 2 teaspoons) while i was test driving my car and upping the "pot" (forget how to spell it) i noticed my temperature gauge was sitting at 2/3 then back to 1/2 the back to 2/3 then on my way back home it died and just read nothing
when i got back i looked at my temp sender (think its the right one, the one closest to my turbo coolant line) one of the wires going into it was bare at a part,WTF and the end of the plastic connecter was half cracked and exposed some rubber accordian thing from the inside.
do you think this is slavageable by using some plastic cement stuff and taking it apart and reconnecting the wires (im assuming) or should i just get a new one. (i have a1gina2g does that matter?)

does anyone know what that plug is called exactly. so i can order a new one

id really like to get this fixed before i install my front mount (should get some time late next week) so i can know if my temp is high

sorry i have so much drama going on lately. normally i dont have anywhere close to this.
i usually hate drama
thanks for helping me out you guys i promise to make it up by replying to other peoples problems i know how to fix.
and sorry if this isnt the right place to post this if so pm me and i will place it somewhere else.
Thanks again

 

[corwininadsm]

i guess it decided to work again. (must have dried out) now all ive got to do is get my interior gauge and dash lights to work. but thats another story
thanks guys