Intake Question

[ryno]

I have a 97 Gst and im wondering about air intakes. First are they neccesary, are they going to make a diference from the stock acordian one. And second if I should buy one, is there a difference in performance between the Dejon tool intake and the famous Injen intake?
Basically is this mod worth the money or should i save my money, and is there a better intake of the two?

thanks for the help
ryan

 

[EclipseTrbo420A]

I have a 97 Gst and im wondering about air intakes. First are they neccesary, are they going to make a diference from the stock acordian one. And second if I should buy one, is there a difference in performance between the Dejon tool intake and the famous Injen intake?
Basically is this mod worth the money or should i save my money, and is there a better intake of the two?

thanks for the help
ryan

Obviously anything solid and smooth will be better and less restrictive than the stocker, but the Injen ( I have ) and the DeJon are still just pipes. I would if anything get an ebay knock off for a fraction of the price, but buy accordingly. If your getting a turbo with a 3 inch + inlet then get an Intake for that size. Sticking to t-25 through EvoIII then the injen style should suit you well.

 

[ryno]

OK thanks, but is this something i should get before a boost controller?
my mods are turbo back exhaust, K&N filter, dejon tool UICP and 1g BOV.
I was planning on getting the MBC but would it be worthless for now or better investment then the intake for now?

thanks for your advise,
ryan

 

[EclipseTrbo420A]

I would get a MBC.. Turning up the boost to 15lbs will feel alot better than an Intake. Since you were considering the InJen or DeJon why not get the knock off and a good MBC. best of both worlds.

 

[1993eclipseGS]

If you're going to waste your money on an intake, Get the one off of ebay. It is the same exact thing as an Injen, For half the price. You have a forced induction car, Not a naturally aspirated one!

 

[GloriousDSM]

Freeing up the airflow to the turbo is one of the 1st mods you should do besides a boost gauge, the MBC should be after cause youve already got an exhaust and freeup that side. get a free flowing system to and from the turbo and youll feel a diffrence. expecially after your MBC, you can crank it up to 16 psi safely, but remember that all cars vary a little with mileage, abuse and care.

 

[ryno]

Freeing up the airflow to the turbo is one of the 1st mods you should do besides a boost gauge, the MBC should be after cause youve already got an exhaust and freeup that side. get a free flowing system to and from the turbo and youll feel a diffrence. expecially after your MBC, you can crank it up to 16 psi safely, but remember that all cars vary a little with mileage, abuse and care.

I forgot to add i do have an after market gauge. I was going to buy the Hallman Pro, cause ive heard good things. Im also buying a 14b tonight.
So are you leaning for intake or MBC, causes it sounds like im getting both.
thanks for all your guys support.

 

[AJGoldie]

Well with the 14b, you'll need the install kit, so consider that as well. Personally, I would rather turn the boost up rather than gaining a few HP with just an intake. Crank it up to 15 or 16, and you'll notice a difference. Good luck.

 

[ryno]

OK thanks guys, i just ordered the hallman MBC for now, is there any recomendations of things to do before i raise my boost? Oh and the guy wont sell the 14b now, so scratch that.

 

[EclipseTrbo420A]

I forgot to add i do have an after market gauge. I was going to buy the Hallman Pro, cause ive heard good things. Im also buying a 14b tonight.
So are you leaning for intake or MBC, causes it sounds like im getting both.
thanks for all your guys support.

Have you heard about the install kit you will need for the 14B also a j pipe if it doesnt come with your turbo?
**EDIT**
Just saw your post, I would just make sure all is well with your car. If it feels ok now keep taking care of it. Only go to 15lbs. Also a boost leak test would be good in any case.

 

[ryno]

OK thanks, are the controlletrs hard to install?
Now i just have to to tell them what color of MBC to get, red or black, that is a hard decision! The car is red but I think i want a start out with a sleeper engine bay. Thanks for the input.

 

[EclipseTrbo420A]

OK thanks, are the controlletrs hard to install?
Now i just have to to tell them what color of MBC to get, red or black, that is a hard decision! The car is red but I think i want a start out with a sleeper engine bay. Thanks for the input.

Get the red. Its a small item you could always hide it if need be. here a diagram. Its really simiple.
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=105573

 

[ryno]

i went with the black to make it sleeperish under the hood.
thanks for the diagram, last question, how do i know how high im turning the boost up when i turn the knob?

thanks you been helpful

 

[EclipseTrbo420A]

i went with the black to make it sleeperish under the hood.
thanks for the diagram, last question, how do i know how high im turning the boost up when i turn the knob?

thanks you been helpful

Its trial and error here. Put it on, boost. If its too high back it out some, if its too low tighten it up. Good luck

 

[oldman]

Don't take the pressure source from the BOV line, take it from the compressor/j-pipe.

 

[EclipseTrbo420A]

Don't take the pressure source from the BOV line, take it from the compressor/j-pipe.

I was meaning to ask you about this. I have the DeJon tool J pipe with no nipple there. I switched the vac line because of what you said the other day, but I just Y'd the line right off the intake manifold. Will that suffice?

 

[oldman]

I was meaning to ask you about this. I have the DeJon tool J pipe with no nipple there. I switched the vac line because of what you said the other day, but I just Y'd the line right off the intake manifold. Will that suffice?

Y'd from where on the manifold? The fitting for the BOV line? If so, it wouldn't make a difference. You seem pretty handy from some of the posts I read, it really isn't that hard to tap the J-pipe with a 1/8 npt to 1/3" fitting.

 

[EclipseTrbo420A]

Y'd from where on the manifold? The fitting for the BOV line? If so, it wouldn't make a difference. You seem pretty handy from some of the posts I read, it really isn't that hard to tap the J-pipe with a 1/8 npt to 1/3" fitting.

You know, I actually never thought of tapping the J pipe. Thanks for the suggestion. Im wondering if any specific location will yield better results over another? I'll figure out out tomarrow and see what I can come up with, but for now im off to bed class then work in the afternoon. Thanks

 

[oldman]

You know, I actually never thought of tapping the J pipe. Thanks for the suggestion. Im wondering if any specific location will yield better results over another? I'll figure out out tomarrow and see what I can come up with, but for now im off to bed class then work in the afternoon. Thanks

11/32" drill and 1/8 npt tap is what you will need besides the fitting. Tap it near the flange so you can dremel off the butt of the fitting. Remember you're threading a pipe so don't overtighten the fitting as it will strip easily, a little taflon and it being npt thread, should seal nicely. You can also find a suitable place on the compressor cover, obviously after the compressor wheel.

 

[EclipseTrbo420A]

Thanks, will do.

 

[Talesin]

I still prefer to take the MBC pressure source from the manifold. Makes sure you get a stable boost level, despite the temperature or relative density. Was coming from the compressor outlet before, and the boost level would jump on a daily basis, or whenever I'd go through the mountains.

I'll probably set it back when I raise above 16psi (on a B16G) and come anywhere near to being in danger of overspinning from any boost leakage.

 

[oldman]

I have always tapped the compressor/j-pipe and had never had any boost flatuations like you described. Someone has yet to explain to me in technical terms as to why temperature and Baro readings will affect the boost level. It's pressure that activates the actuator/wastegate, not temperature or density. Besides, protecting the turbo in case of boost leaks is only one of many advantages of tapping the compressor/j-pipe instead of the BOV line/manifold.

 

[Talesin]

Biggest reason is because tapping the compressor outlet gives you a pressure reading before the intercooler. Most especially noticeable on a cold night, when the IC is particularly effective at cooling the charge; your boost level will drop, as the wastegate is being controlled by the pressure prior to re-cooling (colder gas = lower pressure with the same absolute volume.. imagine why hotdogs explode in the microwave, but backward). Same thing with atmospheric density, though less of an impact... lower atmo density means worse IC effect as well.

When you live in an area with dramatic temperature changes, or run the car around in balmy 80F weather normally at near sea-level during the day, then at night (midnight or so, when everything's cooled down) decide to enjoy a mountain road, which happens to be seven or eight thousand feet above sea level... and only about 40-50F. Unless you tap from the manifold, you can jump 5psi or more, depending on your setup.


You're still pushing the same amount of actual air... tapping from the compressor outlet will keep you at a steady flow rate. Tapping from the manifold will give you a steady pressure, regardless of how dense it is.

 

[AJGoldie]

i went with the black to make it sleeperish under the hood.
thanks for the diagram, last question, how do i know how high im turning the boost up when i turn the knob?

thanks you been helpful

Just remember, when turning the knob on the controller, tightening it raises the boost and loosening it lowers it .

 

[oldman]

Biggest reason is because tapping the compressor outlet gives you a pressure reading before the intercooler. Most especially noticeable on a cold night, when the IC is particularly effective at cooling the charge; your boost level will drop, as the wastegate is being controlled by the pressure prior to re-cooling (colder gas = lower pressure with the same absolute volume.. imagine why hotdogs explode in the microwave, but backward). Same thing with atmospheric density, though less of an impact... lower atmo density means worse IC effect as well.

When you live in an area with dramatic temperature changes, or run the car around in balmy 80F weather normally at near sea-level during the day, then at night (midnight or so, when everything's cooled down) decide to enjoy a mountain road, which happens to be seven or eight thousand feet above sea level... and only about 40-50F. Unless you tap from the manifold, you can jump 5psi or more, depending on your setup.


You're still pushing the same amount of actual air... tapping from the compressor outlet will keep you at a steady flow rate. Tapping from the manifold will give you a steady pressure, regardless of how dense it is.

You're correct but pressure drop has alot more to do with the flow characteristics and cooling efficiency of the IC, intake temperature plays a role but a small role as cold air heats up after going through the compressor wheel anyway, alot easier and safer to deal with than poosible issues caused by tapping the BOV line.