The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

IM Gasket Replacement help!

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Terrh

15+ Year Contributor
59
1
Jan 26, 2005
Windsor,
ok, so I'm trying to replace my intake manifold > block gasket because it's leaking horribly and causingmy car to idle at 4000rpm (failed pressure test). I'd put the job off for a few days because I couldn't drive anyways but now I really want to get this done.

I got the fuel rail out of the way, coils and transistor off, tb, etc, etc..

I'm having a hard time getting the drivers side bolt off on the A- shaped support for the intake manifold... I also can't get to the lower 3? bolts on the intake manifold from on top. Is it possible to?

I decided to pull the exhaust since I have a nice 3" I've been meaning to install and it looks like it would be a WHOLE lot easier to get to the bottom bolts with the downpipe off.. the downpipe - o2 housing bolts are rusted so bady that they're unrecognizable as nuts. The o2-turbo bolts all look fine though. I started to take one off and it broke, flush with the turbo. I screamed in frustration and gave up for the night since it was allready 8pm and getting pretty damn cold. I sprayed the rest with releaseall, lets hope it does me some good.

Anyone have any tips here to make this job easier? I really need to get my car back on the road! Not driving sucks!
 
Terrh said:
ok, so I'm trying to replace my intake manifold > block gasket because it's leaking horribly and causingmy car to idle at 4000rpm (failed pressure test). I'd put the job off for a few days because I couldn't drive anyways but now I really want to get this done.

I got the fuel rail out of the way, coils and transistor off, tb, etc, etc..

I'm having a hard time getting the drivers side bolt off on the A- shaped support for the intake manifold... I also can't get to the lower 3? bolts on the intake manifold from on top. Is it possible to?

I decided to pull the exhaust since I have a nice 3" I've been meaning to install and it looks like it would be a WHOLE lot easier to get to the bottom bolts with the downpipe off.. the downpipe - o2 housing bolts are rusted so bady that they're unrecognizable as nuts. The o2-turbo bolts all look fine though. I started to take one off and it broke, flush with the turbo. I screamed in frustration and gave up for the night since it was allready 8pm and getting pretty damn cold. I sprayed the rest with releaseall, lets hope it does me some good.

Anyone have any tips here to make this job easier? I really need to get my car back on the road! Not driving sucks!
Those bottom bolts are a pain, but can be removed from the top of the car. If you go at it from the passenger side, you can slip your arm under the t.b. and reach them from there. You can also get them from the bottom as you will have the downpipe off. I just hate laying under the car so I go from the top.
Mike
And I find it easier to remove the single bolt from the bracket that holds it to the block.
 
I had the same problem, I had dis-connected the motor mounts raised the engine and disconnected the axle support then I was able to get to the bolts from under the car using a long extension.
 
well, I got it done, what a pain in the ass :D

the 4 bolts on the bottom of the intake manifold were SUCH a pain in the ass, ogm. But I got them. From on top.

I noticed while I was underneath the car earlier that my drivers side CV shaft isn't bolted to the motor, but I'm pretty sure it should be. Does anyone know what size/length the two bolts are, exactly? I searched but can't find a thing.
 
Terrh said:
I noticed while I was underneath the car earlier that my drivers side CV shaft isn't bolted to the motor, but I'm pretty sure it should be. Does anyone know what size/length the two bolts are, exactly? I searched but can't find a thing.
That would be your intermediate shaft bracket. If you have AC then you won't have to worry about the spacer to go with those bolts. Sorry I can't help you bolt lengths. 14mm bolts if memory serves me.
 
I found a bolt that fit. The other hole appears to have a broken bolt in it. And there is no way in hell to get a drill in there, ever. So it looks like one bolt will have to do for now. I'll keep an eye on it, don't worry. I used a big grade 10 bolt, and locktite, so it isn't going anywhere.


The car idles 1000X better now! No more 4000RPM!

but it still isn't perfect, looks like I have another pressure test ahead of me. It bounces at about 1200rpm. Whatever. Close enough to perfect for tonight! At least its drivable.
Now I've got some exhaust leaks too, courtesy of broken o2 housing bolts, yay.

Thanks for the help everyone on both threads.
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Latest Classifieds

  • For sale 420A 420a block & EGR/ FUEL RAIL INJECTORS
    90PSI compression test. Possible damaged piston rings, unsure. Possibly good for a...
    • Stizzydrew
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale 420A OEM 420a throttle body
    $40 + shipping + fees (PayPal) Pick up CA 91605
    • Stizzydrew
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale 420A 420a intake manifold
    $80 OBO + shipping + fees. (PayPal) Pick up CA 91605
    • Stizzydrew
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale 420A 420a thermostat housing
    Oem thermostat housing 420a $20 + shipping + fees.
    • Stizzydrew
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale 420A NVG T350
    New venture gear T350 M/T 420a
    • Stizzydrew
    • Updated:
    • Expires
Back
Top