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wastegate actuator

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athens14

15+ Year Contributor
38
0
Jul 12, 2005
Schaumburg, Illinois
im pretty sure its stuck. done some research but cant find anyone thats selling just the wastgate. would i need to buy a whole new turbo or what? also my turbo inlet is cracked? not all the way through but its got a good inch crack in it. would that cause a boost leak? also where can i find one of the four bolts that connects ex manifold to the turbo? could i find it at a napa or a sears hardware? any suggestions would be appreciated.
 
Exactly which part of the turbo inlet is cracked? Are you talking about the plastic hose, or are you talking about part of the compressor housing?
 
its cracked at the part of the iron casting on the opposite side of the turbo where the intake is. so the side opposite the intake. its right under the manifold it looks like someone tried to do some porting but it turned out crappy. :notgood: i hvae the head off right now changing the head gasket because i was getting white smoke. my car has alot of electrical problems and doesnt want to build full boost. it also sounds like a misfire in the top end. rpms build very very slow. i need some help.
 
A crack in the compressor housing will cause leaks, how do you know for sure that the actuator is stuck?

BTW Please don't bump your thread again so your thread won't get closed,
 
oldman said:
BTW Please don't bump your thread again so your thread won't get closed,

Well...It worked LOL j'k hehe

Since the turbo is off the car, take the actuator off and hook up a hose to an air compressor to shoot air into the diaphram of the wastegate to see if that will push it down, if so, see how much PSI it takes to do so, that way you will know if you're good to go or not.
 
ok sorry for the bump. LOL also im pretty sure its stuck. before we pulled the head it wouldnt build boost past 10 psi and rpms rose very slowly. it would also start to stutter on the top end (past 5k). the electrical is all sorts of hacked evry where and i think maybe the fuel pump is wacked. its supposedly a 255 wb but im not sure the guy who sold me the car scammed me pretty bad so i gotta fix this mess. i cant boost leak test because the head is still of but i will do it first thing when the head is back on. im just wondering what some people think about this. i will try and get a pic of the compressor housing to show the crack. i have doen some research and figured you are a genious OLDMAN so if you could give me some suggestions maybe what to check while the head is off anything would be great.


Also when i took off the valve cover alot of the bolts like above the cams i cant think of what they are, were not even finger tight some of them were loose. i know that cant be good.
 
Just an FYI on those cam bolts, it is critical you tighten them back down in the correct order and at the correct amount of torque, otherwise you will cause major problems.
 
If your housing is cracked you might be able to get it welded, but if it is severely cracked or you don't feel confident with a welded turbo you can get another turbine housing. When he was telling you to test your wastegate he did not mean to do a boost leak test, he meant to use a hose to apply pressure to the wastegate actuator and see if it moved, and how much pressure it takes to make it move.
 
I_eat_DSM's said:
If your housing is cracked you might be able to get it welded, but if it is severely cracked or you don't feel confident with a welded turbo you can get another turbine housing. When he was telling you to test your wastegate he did not mean to do a boost leak test, he meant to use a hose to apply pressure to the wastegate actuator and see if it moved, and how much pressure it takes to make it move.

i know this. it was weird me and my dad took off the valve cover and like three of the bolts were finger tight. it was quite scary that i didnt mess anything up.
 
1. This is important, get yourself a service manual and a torque wrench, those cam bolts needs to torqued down in proper order. The directions must be followed exactly as it's written.

2. Mitsu turbine housing cracking is very common, it's ok as long as the crack isn't all the way through but you must make 100% certain that it isn't because exhaust leaks will cause the problem as you described.

3. When you say you know for sure that the actuator is stuck, how do you know this? Do you mean stuck open or stuck closed?

4. Boost leak test is an absolute neccessity once the head is back on.

Good luck.
 
im not for sure but ill check. it sounds like it wouild be from ive researched. also where can i find another wastegate actuator if it is bad? and i will be doing a boost leak test probly monday or tuesday when my dad gets home and we get the head back on. oh yeah one more thing, there a various snesors that are not even plugged into anyything and i hjave no idea what they are. i will try and get some pics.
 
athens14 said:
im not for sure but ill check. it sounds like it wouild be from ive researched. also where can i find another wastegate actuator if it is bad? and i will be doing a boost leak test probly monday or tuesday when my dad gets home and we get the head back on. oh yeah one more thing, there a various snesors that are not even plugged into anyything and i hjave no idea what they are. i will try and get some pics.

To quote a turbo rebuild shop here in Colorado, wastegate actuators rarely go bad. What turbo do you have. I have an extra actuator for a T-25 you can have for only the price of sending it to you. Just let me know.
 
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