Compression test results, is car ready for upgrades?

[manwithaGSX]

I read my Haynes manual and did my cylinder compression test about an hour ago. The results are:

1 - 151
2 - 150
3 - 149
4 - 150

159k miles on a 91 GSX

Are these decent results? It is well above the service limit stated in the repair manual but I was wanting a DSM tuner point of view opinion. Also my vacuum at idle is 20 in/mg. Tax time is approaching and I want to make sure the engine is ready.

Before bolt ons I will get,
new timing belt, TB tensioner, BSE, Manley valve springs, new valve guides and seals, and whatever else the head night need replaced, along with appropriate gaskets. Replace all vacuum lines with new hoses

After I plan on getting...

VRS 2.5 turbo back (with high flow cat)
walbro 190 (rewiring already done)
New 2g EXHAUST MANIFOLD ported
EGT
MAF-T
Dejon upper and lower inter-cooler pipes with GM MAF of course
lightened flywheel and clutch
keeping the 14b!!!! but maybe I'll port it out
keeping the stock side-mount

any comments? suggestions? criticisms? I'm keeping the mods down for now to keep the car reliable, also I was toying with the idea of going to a NASA time trial event and was wanting to keep my points below 29

 

[98eclipseRS]

I'd say for a 160k engine those are some pretty damn good numbers. As far as modding goes it looks like you have a good recipe to turn good times. I'd say maybe add some meth or water injection so you can turn teh boost up on the 14b and not have to worry about upping the injector size at all.

 

[2fast4]

Your comp looks good. As for the 2g exh mani, why not go with EVOIII mani?
Some guys are getting pretty good whp - 347whp, on 16g(small?) and STOCK SMIC with STOCK INJ. Albeit, upgraded IC pipes & other BPUs done, 347whp is EXCELLENT!!!

Force be with you!

 

[manwithaGSX]

I'd say for a 160k engine those are some pretty damn good numbers. As far as modding goes it looks like you have a good recipe to turn good times. I'd say maybe add some meth or water injection so you can turn teh boost up on the 14b and not have to worry about upping the injector size at all.

Thanks for your reply. The thought about water injection crossed my mind, but I believe that falls under the category of "Non-OEM forced induction" under NASA rules which adds another ten points putting me in class C, and I don't want to go there yet
Class C:
Audi ’04 S4; Acura NSX; BMW M3 (E46)*,98+ M5, M Coupe (315hp), M Roadster
(315hp); Chevrolet Corvette C5*, Corvette GS, SLP Camaro, ZR-1; DeTomaso Pantera;
Factory Five Cobra 5.0; Ford Mustang Cobra/SVT/Mach1, Saleen Mustang; Jaguar
XKRSC, S-Type R; Lotus Esprit 4 Cylinder Turbo; Mazda RX-7 TT; Mercedes Benz
C32 AMG, SLK AMG*, CLK AMG*, E55; Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution; Pontiac SLP
Firehawk; Porsche 911 Turbo, 968 Turbo S, Boxster S, 993, 996*; Subaru STi; Toyota
Supra TT

The other planned mods I haven't listed are struts, ??springs??, sway bars, better tires, carbon fiber hood, bushings(non metallic).

I learned a little bit during my day with the SCCA back in October and that is, I need to learn how to drive, my car hits the bump stops on hard right turns, ABS rocks, AWD rocks, and street tires suck, and did I mention I need to learn how to drive? OH, and if any of you guys wonder why your oil gauge dropped to zero while racing don't freak out. If you ran over a cone then you might have disconnected the oil pressure sending unit.

 

[manwithaGSX]

Your comp looks good. As for the 2g exh mani, why not go with EVOIII mani?
Some guys are getting pretty good whp - 347whp, on 16g(small?) and STOCK SMIC with STOCK INJ. Albeit, upgraded IC pipes & other BPUs done, 347whp is EXCELLENT!!!

Force be with you!

I thought about the EVO manifold, but with my expected horsepower goals I figured it would be cheaper/easier and more practical to go with the 2g, but MAINLY because I'm cheap. Is the HP gains worth the extra $50 I might pay for a EVO manifold?

 

[2fast4]

It would be marginal increase in power - my point is to upgrade for future. Might-as-well factor. You might go bigger down the road. EVO mani has more nickel content, too.

 

[manwithaGSX]

It would be marginal increase in power - my point is to upgrade for future. Might-as-well factor. You might go bigger down the road. EVO mani has more nickel content, too.

That's a good idea, I'll try to keep my eyes open for a good deal on an EVO manifold. I actually was set on a tubular at first, but I had to cut costs. My old lady is gona kill me if she sees how much all this is going to cost.

 

[2fast4]

That's a good idea, I'll try to keep my eyes open for a good deal on an EVO manifold. I actually was set on a tubular at first, but I had to cut costs. My old lady is gona kill me if she sees how much all this is going to cost.

Also, I don't know 'bout others, but the "heat shield" is something to consider...tubular won't have h/s unless you wrap it w/ bandages.

 

[manwithaGSX]

Also, I don't know 'bout others, but the "heat shield" is something to consider...tubular won't have h/s unless you wrap it w/ bandages.

Good point, I hadn't thought about that. With what I plan to do a tubular exhaust probably is too much. I going to do Solo 2 runs with the SCCA this year and I want to stay in their SP class.

 

[kidwiththelaser]

Those are some pretty impressive #'s for 160k miles.

I'd say your motor is running pretty strong, have you checked the 14b though??

i'd make sure the turbo is in good condition, before you do all those mods, also clean the I/C.

Not sure if you knew that already, or if you were planning on doing that, but I figured it wouldnt harm to double check.

Also, if your 1g manifold is not cracked, I would not bother upgrading to a 2g, it really wont make that big of a difference. Just port the 1g, and if it cracks later than, you ca decide if you want the Evo3 mani or the 2g.

 

[manwithaGSX]

Those are some pretty impressive #'s for 160k miles.

I'd say your motor is running pretty strong, have you checked the 14b though??

i'd make sure the turbo is in good condition, before you do all those mods, also clean the I/C.

Not sure if you knew that already, or if you were planning on doing that, but I figured it wouldnt harm to double check.

Also, if your 1g manifold is not cracked, I would not bother upgrading to a 2g, it really wont make that big of a difference. Just port the 1g, and if it cracks later than, you ca decide if you want the Evo3 mani or the 2g.

My 14b has no shaft play at all, and I've cleaned the intercooler. I've done all the Stage 0 mods listed in the tech section of this website.

I started my first round of upgrades, but I'm doing mostly a lot of maintenance. I'm waiting on the crank pulley and timing belt tensioner to come in from DSMotorsport. I going to go ahead and replacing all of the timing components tomorrow. Valve seals and revised lifters are sitting in a box in the other room. The balance shaft is going to be removed as well. I tore apart the throttle body to get at the shaft seals. I bought Dejon tool's complete 3" exhaust and it is sitting on the back patio right now. Unfortunately I live in an emissions controlled area so I bought a 3" CAT and I'm waiting on some 3" flanges to show up so I can get it all together. My radiator started leaking from the plastic part on top so I had to replace that as well, with an all metal one.

I finally got a chance to examine my exhaust manifold and it is fine, so I am going to keep it on there. The only thing I'm worried about is getting those valve springs off. Wish me luck, tomorrow is going to be a long day.

 

[StealthXtreme4]

Let us know how it goes, those numbers are extremely good and unbelievable for 160k miles. I'd be proud, looks like the engine was truly taken care of.

 

[manwithaGSX]

This tear down has taken longer than I thought. Three days into it and I still have to remove the balance shaft. Heads, exhaust, and all the timing components are removed. I discovered my timing was all off. When the crank pulley was at TDC the oil pump was off(yes I rotated the engine over and over the try and get it straight) and both cams were off. The exhaust was behind and the intake was ahead. To those of you out there buying a new (used) eclipse CHECK your TIMING. At least the balance shaft was where it was supposed to be. I started all this because I thought my valve seals were leaking. When I looked at all the valves through the ports it turned out none of the valves were leaking. The intake manifold had a coat of soot in it so I checked my home made EGR block off plate but it was in place and holding strong. I noticed a burnt oil trail coming going down intake ports and all I can gather is that it was coming through my PVC valve(I changed that when I bought the car). Also number four and one piston has a thick layer of residue on them and two and three just looks black. The combustion side of the valves has an orange color to them and my exhaust manifold has a streak of white residue in them. It looks like majority of my oil loss was coming from a leaking oil return line at the turbo.

I almost wish now that I hadn't taken the heads off, but then again that wouldn't be any fun would it? At least I can make an attempt at cleaning those valves. I hope I can get anyone of those poor man method valve spring compressor ideas to work. Tomorrow I will remove the balance and start cleaning all the parts I have removed. With any luck I should be back and running this time next week. I may just take some more vacation time so I can get it done sooner.

With that in mind anyone got any advice? I'm most worried about the head gasket sealing back up. I'm not taking the head to a shop, I'm cashed out, really. I'm just going to clean them the best I can and put a new head gasket on, take a wire brush to the pistons and valves, maybe polish the exhaust side, but not port. Thanks in advance.