Mysterious Ignition Timing Problem, HELP!

[DallasN2O]

OK.. Long story short:

My timing belt was recently replaced and balance shaft removal was done. Cam marks are lined up, dowels at 12 oclock, etc. I'm 99.9% sure that the belt is timed right. I'm trying to set the ignition timing. I put the light on the #1 plug wire and ground the timing plug. I adjust the CAS to move the mark and it will not go to 5 BTDC. I am all the way at the end of the adjustment for the CAS, I thought it was supposed to be in the middle? I can adjust the mark all the way to about 4 BTDC and if I touch the CAS again it will jump to past 10 BTDC (??!!). Then I have to move it all the way back and try again. I cannot get the mark to show between 4 and 9 BTDC, it just skips on past it. I took out the CAS and checked the notch and it is lined up, with #1 cyl at TDC and the notches on the CAS facing toward the front of the car. I don't know what else to do. Someone give me some ideas?

 

[oldman]

I put the light on the #1 plug wire and ground the timing plug. I adjust the CAS to move the mark and it will not go to 5 BTDC.

1. Did you also ground the pin on the diagnostic plug under the dash as well?

2. Are your plugs in the right order?

 

[DallasN2O]

Yes I did that too to try and set the Idle speed because I thought maybe that was the problem, I was getting some idle surge. 500 - 2500rpm. The plugs wires are in right.

 

[oldman]

This what I suggest:

1. First you must eliminated all vacuum leaks, this is important.

2. Although you're sure the valve timing is on, perform a compression test anyway.

3. After all vacuum leaks are eliminated, re-adjust the BISS to 750.

4. Reset your timing. Keep in mind that after you set it at 5*BTDC, when you unground the two plugs, timing will jump a little and float around at about 8*.

 

[DallasN2O]

I'm pretty sure I have all the vacuum leaks covered. I will double check again though. One other thing to note is that when I tried to set my idle speed with the diagnostic port pin grounded and the timing plug grounded, I can screw the adjustment screw all the way in and its still idling over 1k rpm. When I put the timing light on sometimes I cant even see the timing mark near the gauge. I have to move CAS almost all the way down in the front just to get the mark to the T on the gauge. If I put it in the middle like youre supposed to, the timing mark is WAY above the T on the gauge.

 

[oldman]

If the lowest idle is 1k+ with BISS all the way in, something is already wrong. What's the vacuum reading at idle? Was any of the TB sensors, specifically the IPS and TPS touched during your project? If timing belt is the only thing touched, I would go back and re-check valve timing again and perform that compression test. Make sure you not only look at the dowels but also use a straight edge to make sure the center marks are lined up with the center of both cam sprockets.

 

[DallasN2O]

I was reading 12-15 Hg at idle. No none of the TB sensors were touched. I also replaced the CAS to make sure it wasn't faulty and it did the same thing. How much vacuum should I be getting at idle?

 

[oldman]

With stock 1g cams, 18-20 at idle.

 

[DallasN2O]

Holy crap, then its pretty obvious I have a big vacuum leak then? Would the timing being screwed up affect the intake vacuum that much?

 

[oldman]

Yes, degree depends on how and how much it's off.

 

[DallasN2O]

I think the plate behind my crank sprocket was installed backwards because the notch was like an inch off from the arrow on the block. I put a rod in spark plug hole #1 and found TDC before installing the belt though. If my timing is off, it cant be by more than 1 tooth. But like I said, im confident about it. Sometimes I get wierd flashes from the timing light, like its not a steady flash rate on cyl 1. I've been having some problems I think with the power transistor plug, sometimes I have to plug it in and out to make it fire right. What I dont understand is why when I adjust the CAS, the mark on the crank pulley jumps from 4 to like past 10?? There is no in-between. That just baffles me. The only thing I could think of it could be is the CAS spinner thing is 180 off but i lined the notches up facing the headlights... I'm so confused. If I do a boost leak test, will i find the vacuum leaks? Also, can you point me to the correct way to do the compression test. I've searched around and haven't turned up the proper method. Thanks.

 

[oldman]

Sometimes I get wierd flashes from the timing light, like its not a steady flash rate on cyl 1. I've been having some problems I think with the power transistor plug, sometimes I have to plug it in and out to make it fire right.

This is something worth looking deeper into, perhaps start swapping parts with another dsm friend.

The only thing I could think of it could be is the CAS spinner thing is 180 off but i lined the notches up facing the headlights... I'm so confused.

If that was so, you will not be able to start the car.

If I do a boost leak test, will i find the vacuum leaks?

Definitely yes, make sure you use soapy water.

Also, can you point me to the correct way to do the compression test. I've searched around and haven't turned up the proper method.

http://www.geocities.com/dsmgrrrl/FAQs/compression.htm

Thanks.

You're welcome, I hope you find your problem.