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Lack of power

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tselling

15+ Year Contributor
50
0
Aug 2, 2005
Williamsburg, Virginia
i know you have seen this type of thread before but i have checked all the obvoius and still have no clue why my car feels like its lacking power. it has it someitmes and sometimes not. i am boostin 14 psi all the time with mo major leaks ( one minor one at the uicp where it meets the intercooler ) i cant seem to find that part at any parts store either. all my mods are listed. just shoot me some ideas and ill check it. that main thing is cold it runl like a champ but once it warms up ehhh it runs so so.
 
Its running too rich. Try and lean it out, and see how it responds. The only other thing that could cause that is a bad coolat temp sensor so the PCM thinks the engine is cold all the time and adds fuel to the engine thinking its cold when its really not. Look into the coolant temp sensor and let me know what happens.
 
OK ill check all that and how do i make it run lean? i am getting my data logger cable and my AFR gauge in soon so ill check all the sensors when that comes in. do you know where i can get some good datalogging software? One other thing that i failed to post the first time is that also when it is cool out, like night time the car runs fu***** awesome, i get thrown into the back seat and during the day again like crap, very sluggish.
 
Like I said before check the coolant temp sensor, also look into the inlet air temp sensor which is part of the MAF. I sounds to me that one of the two is bad and making the ECM think that either the air temp is colder than it is ore the engine is colder than it is, and making it run excessivly rich.
 
ok i got my datalogger and i have my log sheet, where can i post it so you, or any one, can read it?
 
Well if you want save it and email it to me. I don't have a clue when it comes to things like editing pics. I just barely have the internet down (me and computers don't exactly get along).
 
Ok sorry so long to get back to you, I found that the knock sensor was reading an unusual ammount of knock ( 31 - 45 counts, at the highest point, I have the datalog if needed to view) then i find that the CAS was not bolted down all the was so i tightened it and know i still get 15 - 18 counts of knock. any ideas? also MMCD is reading that i have 3 error codes. mafs baro and air temp i cant erase them and if i try the just reapear. i have the MAS hooked up and it reads fine when i am logging, in the program, but still have the error codes.
 
Is any one going to reply??? i am still having this problem with my car i would really appreciate it if i could get some help here. WTF :mad:
 
Three things first :

that main thing is cold it runl like a champ but once it warms up ehhh it runs so so
Don't force your car to run like a champ until it's fully warmed up. :nono:

i am boostin 14 psi all the time with mo major leaks ( one minor one at the uicp where it meets the intercooler )
How much pressure and for how long did the system hold during your last boost leak test?

then i find that the CAS was not bolted down all the was so i tightened it and know i still get 15 - 18 counts of knock.
Did you set the base timing to 5* BTDC? Why was it not bolted down? What other work have you done to the car lately?
 
well i did a boost leak test and it held 15 psi for 15-20 seconds with the little leak that is present. the cas was not bolted down cause the person who repaired my car, that cost me -3 points due to the way he explained things to me :notgood: , forgot to bolt alot of things down. the timing is set to 5*i dont know what btdc means but when the car is off that is what the datalogger reads and when it is on an ideling it fluxes between 7 and 10 and rolling it goes up. i am off for the night and ill be back on tomorrow arround noon to give more details and thank you for helping me. :thumb: i really appreciate it
 
Ok so i think that i have an idea as to why its doing this. my intercooler has never been taken off that i know of. i think that it is oil soaked on the inside and i am loosing all of its efficiency, or at least a good amount. my car has 182,xxx miles on it and i think all of the turbo plumbing is just about shot. basically when the engine is cool the turbo is pushing cool air through the intercooler and does not need to be cooled since it is already, then when it warms up the intercooler is not doing its job and that is where i am loosing my power. what is your oppinion?
 
also i think that the knock is coming from a "rich knock" how do i ge the car to run not so rich and get it to stoich??? oh the knock only happens in 3rd gear and above WTF
 
1. Did you warm up the car before your leak test?

2. Put the honeycomb back in the maf and see if helps with the knock.

3. Are you venting?
 
um usualy the car is warm because i have to go and fill up my tank with air. i dont have the honeycomb any more, when i took it out it got destroyed. i am deffinately not venting that is for sure i know the problems that can cause. I got the car running a little better today. i adjusted the cas alittle more and i can feel power through all the gears. but what is your take on the intercooler??
 
tselling said:
um usualy the car is warm because i have to go and fill up my tank with air. i dont have the honeycomb any more, when i took it out it got destroyed.
Which honeycomb did you remove? IMO, a dangerous free mod without a logger.

i adjusted the cas alittle more and i can feel power through all the gears
Did you use a timing light and ground the plug by the firewall, make sure you didn't just turn the cas without folowing the proper procedure.

but what is your take on the intercooler??
Common sense says the cleaner the IC the better though I do not think it's the cause of your problem. With that said, cleaning it would not hurt, just make sure you repeat the leak test when it's done.
 
i removed the lower honeycomb only. and i do have a datalogger on my laptop, i am running a palm emulator with mmcd on it. if you know of any really good software for laptop a that would be great.
with the cas all i did was put it back to the "natural position" there are alignment marks on it where it was before the rebuild. i dont have a timing light to check it. when i put it back the car feels like it wants to go, not like i am forcing it to go. do you know what i mean?
I am going to take off the intercooler this wed to clean it. what shouldi use to clean it out?
 
tselling said:
i removed the lower honeycomb only. and i do have a datalogger on my laptop, i am running a palm emulator with mmcd on it. if you know of any really good software for laptop a that would be great.
mmcd is fine, I forgot you have been logging. I susgest trying a unhacked mas, it can very well be the source of your knock.

with the cas all i did was put it back to the "natural position" there are alignment marks on it where it was before the rebuild. i dont have a timing light to check it. when i put it back the car feels like it wants to go, not like i am forcing it to go. do you know what i mean?
Just because it feels better doesn't mean you got it on the right spot. Do it right.

I am going to take off the intercooler this wed to clean it. what shouldi use to clean it out?
Intercooler cleaning.
 
ok thank you i am going to take it to a shop since i dont have a light to do the timing. i do have "a new" mas on the way, new to my car. but other than that i will post back once i get all that done to let you know what happens.
 
i am going to go and do an oil change what is the best oil to use for high mileage? in your opionion gtx or mobil 1?
 
tselling said:
ok thank you i am going to take it to a shop since i dont have a light to do the timing.
A timing light costs $30-$40 and is a very important/useful tool, why pay a shop?

i am going to go and do an oil change what is the best oil to use for high mileage? in your opionion gtx or mobil 1?
I use Mobil 1 but I don't think it makes much of a difference.
 
thank you ill go to advanced to get a light since it is 45 bux to have it checked. ill post back on Thursday when i get payed to let you know what the status is
 
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