Timing belt, 1st time

[Grimis]

I have read every topic/post on here about it, sounds easy as pie. Well not for grim..

Ok, got started on putting the engine back together, front case was leaking like a pig, and putting new water pump and all the pullys and such. I had help, and got the belt on and such, no specails tools , dont own many to begin with. Any ways, got it on, read the vfaq and let it sit for 15 and such turned the crank 4 instead of 6 (found out today ) and the cams where not lining up, the tensonor was way out.

So today, i wanted to reset the tensonor. so i took it off, and had my step father take it to work tomorow to push it back in and put that pin back.

Now here is the problem. before i took the tensonor off, i did a booboo i think. I untighten the tbelt pully, and when we found out it was 2 turns from where it should of been, i put a wrench on the crank and proceeded to turn the crank with the belt on. About 1 1/2 turns threw the 2 turns, the dam belt slips. i dont know how or why. any ways, i got the cams to point at each other, got the crank to the timining mark and took the spark plug out to check if the #1 pistin is at the top and it is. But every time we go to put the belt on (me and my father, the dam exhaust (turbo side) cam is off ether advanced/back 1 tooth, after we move the pully.I realy need someone that realy knows this, the book and the lack of the web where my car is, its sucks, and im limited on tools and knolage. Its almost a cry for help. Just realy sucks right now, after this is done i can start putting my car back together, its been 4months.

Thanks for any input/help.

Grim

 

[rowlex]

make sure the dowel pins on the cams are facing upwards.

a trick some people use is:
put the timing belt on, starting at the crank, then around oil pump, then onto the intake cam then onto the exhaust cam, retard the exhaust cam 1(clock wise) tooth, THEN put some of those large black paper clips on the belt/cams to hold the belt in place. then tighten the proper way. spin it around by the wrench on the crank a couple times to make sure everything lines up well.

good luck

EDIT: this will also help, print it out and take it with you
http://vfaq.com/mods/timingbelt-2G.html

 

[Grimis]

i got two copys of that, one is covered in oil . But the dowls are up, and Im going back down to night to try again, Hopefuly it works this time. I'll post back.

 

[Grimis]

ok, got the timing belt on every thing is lined up, got the pully to play nice but i think its to tight. The auto tensonor is pressed in more then out but its alined up. What should i do? Losen the pully just a hair or what?

 

[GRsDSM]

before you do loosen the tensioner...swing the crack clockwise and then counterclock wise 1/4 turn...that might help...it is still too tight then bring the tension back abit...

I just finished the timing belt replacemtn on my car, and mine is very tight...too tight infact...it makes a loud whining noise...cant be too good...

Good luck with that!

 

[Grimis]

good news, Its done , finaly after almost a week of pissing with it , its finaly alined, and set to speck, 3.9mm cant get any better then that Thanks for the help guys

 

[luv2rallye]

For others reading this thread:
With the engine in the car, measuring the distance between the tensioner arm and auto tensioner body (usually with a drill bit) is sometimes hard to see or do. Example: Can't get in there or see if drill bit is truly parallel to the tensioner top which affects measurement or you can’t get a 2.6 ft-lbs torque wrench on the tensioner pulley special tool #MLR-MD-998767. You can replace all that complicated tensioning torque stuff (which you can rarely get right with the engine in the car anyway - no room) with the following alternative. Just adjust the tensioner pulley so that the auto tensioner holding pin (eg. 1/16” allen wrench) moves freely all the way through the auto tensioner body and pin holes (after you turn the crankshaft and wait for the belt to stretch and auto tensioner to settle). Adjust the tensioner pulley to do this and it will automatically make the distance between the tensioner arm and auto tensioner body (drill bit measurement) be about .157 in. (spec is .150 - .177 in.). I've done over a dozen dsm TB's this way every one done correctly.