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Broken Lug Studs on ABS Talon...HELP [Merged 9-6]

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Zerocygnal

20+ Year Contributor
639
1
Jul 1, 2002
Springfield, Ohio
Well I didn't think this would be a big deal to repair until I realized that the ABS sensor ring makes it impossible to take broken lug studs out without removing it. Problem is...I don't see any way to take the hub assembly apart without using a press. I took the entire hub off the car and there is no access hole or anything to back the studs out.

To make a long story short the guy at the tire shop tightened my lug nuts down with a heavy duty impact. Got a few miles away and the wheels felt wobbly. I was a block away from home so I got lucky....
Took off the centercaps...3 lugnuts lying inside of it with broken studs inside. Kinda need to get to work on Monday..so any help with this would be appreciated. Is a press nessessary for me to repair this?

Thanks in advance
 
-Depend on front or rear, the visable axel bolt up front, and the hidden axel bolt behind the 3 or 4 bolts axel joint, according to the manual, you only need to remove the axel bolt then use a puller to pull the assembly off.
 
I don't know if a slide hammer could remove this thing..it's a heavy duty job. Yeah...but you've got me thinking a puller might do the job. I couldn't think of a puller that I could use in this application because I can't use the center bolt to press against since that nut is required to come off first. A slidehammer might be my only hope. Is this in the shop manual, chiltons, haynes? I trucked through the Haynes manual and it didn't have anything about the stud removal.

Thanks Turboholic I will definately give that puller a try.
 
-It's in the Mitsu manual, notice the puller kit I posted above has a part/plate for you to bolt on to the wheel studs, not all kit has this part.
 
Heh..3 of the studs are broken off...I hope there is enough exposed thread.

Thanks again!
 
-PM me your address if you need a expose drawing of how parts go, there's a big snap ring on the back side of the hup, look like it's there to retain the bearing from falling out, but I'm not sure.
 
Thanks that did the trick! Those pics you sent really did help out and I really appreciate the time you took to do this for me.
All lug studs are replaced and I'm on the road again.
Thanks!
 
-You're welcome.

-Either the dealer's manual or the back-up cd is a must have for those whom plan to work on the car themselve, the other manuals leave out lots of detail.
 
I Was putting on my tires and I was tightening one of the lug nuts, and it broke the bolt off!! What part do I need now, is it expensive? How much damage am i gonna cause driving on it? Please Help!!!OMG:cry:
 
You probably don't want to drive on it much, if at all.

You'll need a new stud; you can get them from Mitsubishi easily enough.

Getting the broken one out can be tough; if you have ABS it's very difficult. If you don't, I understand it's not too hard.

My recommendation would be to start by getting the hub off the axle, then proceed to your workbench and drive the remains of the old stud out, then drive the new one in. Make sure it seats properly.

You can *probably* drive on the other four, especially if you are using the stock wheels (hubcentric), but I would be very careful and avoid doing any more distance than is *absolutely* necessary.

Description of the process for non-ABS cars:

http://www.dsm.org/archives/1996/01/19960117.txt/32.html

Description of the process for ABS cars:

http://www.dsm.org/archives/1996/09/19960903.txt/3.html

Both of these are from the 1000AAQ. Note that you should always tighten your lugnuts with a torque wrench, as over/under tightening can lead to rotor warp.
 
I had 3 out of five broken by a "tire" guy! I only drove on it for like 5 miles to get it fixed. You need a stud and a new lug nut. real cheap parts. You should'nt cause any damage with just one broke, but it's always a good idea to change it anyway! Safety first...LOL
 
Damage:
-Warped rotor
-Bent rim

Option 1 (depending how the wheel studs are accesable)
- goto a parts store and buy the wheel stud.
- Take the wheel off and hammer the old one out.
- Put new one in and pull it through with some big washers and the lug nut.
- put the wheel on and tighten the lug nut down.
- take the wheel off and check to see if you have pulled the stud in all the way
-repeat as needed

Option 2
-goto a shop and have them do it. (needed if the stud isn't accessable without taking the assy apart.
 
You probably have to slide hammer the whole assembly out, right? I know that's how I do it on most cars with unaccessible stud locations. it's generally a gigantic pain in the ass. Takin the spindle nut off, seperating the whole uub assembly, ack. Some wheel studs are easy, but when they're not, they just aren't. From what i see the abs cars are a pain, the non abs cars are not. Hopefully you dont have abs. If you do, have fun. Slide hammers suck, and you're probably gonna hurt your arms alot, and it sucks sucks sucks.
 
thanx for all the help guys, only one is broke. I'll get it fixed the day after tomorrow, hopefully I don't f it up anymore.
 
i was taking my rear wheels off and on the passenger side one of the lug nuts must have got rusted onto the wheel stud cause when i tried to take the lug nut off the stud came with it and now i cant even get my wheel off becuase i cant get the stud to come out...so basically the stud is stuck somewhere back behind the brakes and stuff...and ive got a lug nut on the end of the stud that wont come off and my wheel is trapped in between still all attached to the car...when i use my air gun it the lug nut/wheel stud just spin pretty freely and i can move it around by hand, but it wont come out...

anyone had a similar problem or have an idea how to get the stud out with the wheel still attached? ill break it or cut it if i can, i just want the damn thing off
 
Sounds like it was cross-threaded or just worn out and stripped out the the threads. What you'll have to do is take off the remaining four lugs and the attempt to remove the lug nut. You'll need some help doing this because the wheel will need to be twisted in a manor that will apply pressure to the back side of the lug nut. This pressure on the back side hopefully should force the lug nut to move enough to grab the next thread or two and finish backing off. Be advised though it is possible to score up your wheels if pressure is applied in the wrong manor, possibly even ANY pressure. But it's the only way I know how to do it. I doubt you'll have enough room to fit a screw driver in there to pry on the back side.

Once you get the lug nut and wheel off, you'll have to remove the old stud. This will involve removal of the rear caliper and rotor. Then rotate the hub to a position where the stud can be removed and reinstalled. The correct way to remove the stud is with a special tool that basically presses the lug nut stud out of the hub. However, most people will just beat the stud out with a hammer. This method may cause damage to the hub (per service manual), but I've driven over 60,000 miles with new studs that I've beaten out and replaced. To install a new stud, insert it from the back side and put a bunch of flat washers on before a lug nut. Install the lugnut and tighten it up until the back of the lug nut stud is flush with the back of the hub. Then just reassemble everything.
Doug
 
Originally posted by Doug99RS
Sounds like it was cross-threaded or just worn out and stripped out the the threads. What you'll have to do is take off the remaining four lugs and the attempt to remove the lug nut. You'll need some help doing this because the wheel will need to be twisted in a manor that will apply pressure to the back side of the lug nut. This pressure on the back side hopefully should force the lug nut to move enough to grab the next thread or two and finish backing off. Be advised though it is possible to score up your wheels if pressure is applied in the wrong manor, possibly even ANY pressure. But it's the only way I know how to do it. I doubt you'll have enough room to fit a screw driver in there to pry on the back side.

Once you get the lug nut and wheel off, you'll have to remove the old stud. This will involve removal of the rear caliper and rotor. Then rotate the hub to a position where the stud can be removed and reinstalled. The correct way to remove the stud is with a special tool that basically presses the lug nut stud out of the hub. However, most people will just beat the stud out with a hammer. This method may cause damage to the hub (per service manual), but I've driven over 60,000 miles with new studs that I've beaten out and replaced. To install a new stud, insert it from the back side and put a bunch of flat washers on before a lug nut. Install the lugnut and tighten it up until the back of the lug nut stud is flush with the back of the hub. Then just reassemble everything.
Doug

thanks for the suggestion..ill give it a try tomorrow...lucky ive got the stock wheels on still and once i get it off im putting some rota's on so i dont reallly care about scratching them up...
 
ive been trying all day and i still cant get the damn thing out of there...im lost at what to do..if i have something to cut it with (plasma cutter or torch) i would just melt the lug nut and everything off by now...i dont care about messing up the wheel i just want the thing off!

any other ideas? i think im basically screwed as far as doing this in my garage
 
Have you tried to re-install that lug nut? Maybe try and get it to catch some different threads. Also try hitting the lugnut downward so as to #### it at an angle. I was about to suggest hitting it head on but then you run the risk of knocking the back side out of the hub and then you'll REALLY be screwed.
Doug
 
Originally posted by Doug99RS
Have you tried to re-install that lug nut? Maybe try and get it to catch some different threads. Also try hitting the lugnut downward so as to #### it at an angle. I was about to suggest hitting it head on but then you run the risk of knocking the back side out of the hub and then you'll REALLY be screwed.
Doug

yeah i tried tighening it back in to see if that did anything but it just spins freely just like in reverse...ive tried heating it up, doing it at angles, pressing the wheel against it...still nothing works...i attempted to drill it out but ive got a pretty small air drill and it wasnt working to well, those studs are too strong of metal...i was thinking about trying to somehow cut the lug off into sectons so maybe it would just break apart off but i dont really have anything i could use...the lug and stud move around so freely they it stick out of the wheel about 1/2" if you press the wheel all the way against the rotor..if i could just break the stud i would but like you said im just kinda worried about messing something else up in the process.
 
I didn't mean to cuss just then... I actually meant to use the word c o c k as in... tilt... but oh well. Yeah, I'm not sure where to go from there. That's pretty much everything I would have done myself. The cutting idea would work maybe. Get some carbide bits and an air die grinder and just go at the lug nut. It's just a matter of time really. The other option is to just drive around with the one lug nut and wait until the wheel breaks off??!?!?!?!?? (joking... really)
Doug
 
Originally posted by Doug99RS
I didn't mean to cuss just then... I actually meant to use the word c o c k as in... tilt... but oh well. Yeah, I'm not sure where to go from there. That's pretty much everything I would have done myself. The cutting idea would work maybe. Get some carbide bits and an air die grinder and just go at the lug nut. It's just a matter of time really. The other option is to just drive around with the one lug nut and wait until the wheel breaks off??!?!?!?!?? (joking... really)
Doug

well thanx alot for the help...im gonna try and figure something out tomorrow...might give the die grinder idea out..hell, ide try anything about now! i just want the sucker off...ill post back when (or if) i get it off...thanx
 
Im not sure if this will help but I had my locking lugnut completely striped about 2 weeks ago so I brought it to a local rim shop in Jacksonville. The mechanic got it off in like 5 minutes. He had a small jackhammer like tool and the locking lugnut cracked off and they only charged me $10. Maybe they can do something like that to yours?!?!?
 
Originally posted by matt23o
Im not sure if this will help but I had my locking lug nut striped about 2 weeks ago and I brought it to a local rim shop in Jacksonville. The mechanic got it off in like 5 minutes. I had a small jackhammer like tool and the locking lugnut cracked off and they only charged me $10. Maybe they can do something like that to yours?!?!?

thanx, i might have to try something like that out...i tried everything and its still one, so i might have to finish the car up and roll to a local wheel shop and see if they can fix it..
 
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