TB problems, PLEASE HELP!!

[civickiller]

I have Throttle Body problems. When i rev my engine it only starts to rev after 1 sec. I press the gas(in neutral) and nothing, 1 sec later it revs. Is it my throttle cable? Also, my car does not hold even 800rpm in neutral. I start the car and it idles for 10 sec(500-150RPM)
and dies. I have a safc 2 and i tried to fix it by using safc but it does not help.
when i take it for a drive, RPMs clime really slow a WOT. I thing all of my sensors are fine. Could that be because i did not connect TB correctly? Is there any diagram for TB installations? This happend after i reinstalled my head. My setup is in my profile.

 

[civickiller]

any ideas? my main concern is why my rpms clime really slow even in first gear.

 

[Tommy31]

Have you tried reving it from under the hood? That would take the throttle cable out of the equation.

If you rev it from under the hood and it still takes a second to rev then I would think it sounds more like a fuel delivery problem. Check your fuel line, injectors and SAFC.

Throttle body installations are pretty straight-forward. Did you have the TB apart before you put it back on? Maybe the throttle plate is sticky and not opening smoothly.

More info would be helpful.

 

[civickiller]

Have you tried reving it from under the hood? That would take the throttle cable out of the equation.

If you rev it from under the hood and it still takes a second to rev then I would think it sounds more like a fuel delivery problem. Check your fuel line, injectors and SAFC.

Throttle body installations are pretty straight-forward. Did you have the TB apart before you put it back on? Maybe the throttle plate is sticky and not opening smoothly.

More info would be helpful.

I fixed TB problem by loosening TB cable, adjusting BOV screw(it was to lose) and used idle screw to hold RPMs at 900.
The next problem i have is when my car under boost levels, it's fine. Whenever i boost it it feels like i have bad turbo but it still boost nonetheless. When engine was colder i took it for a ride, it boosted fine and i had a wheel spin after 5psi in second gear, which means turbo is fine. After my first run engine got hotter and whenever i tried to boost again it felt like turbo was stuttering and chocking, i was barely moving. I have a thin turbo line, could that be because my turbo is not getting enough oil? But why was it boosting fine at first time? Will wait for car to get colder and i will try again and see what happens.

 

[Tommy31]

I fixed TB problem by loosening TB cable, adjusting BOV screw(it was to lose) and used idle screw to hold RPMs at 900.
The next problem i have is when my car under boost levels, it's fine. Whenever i boost it it feels like i have bad turbo but it still boost nonetheless. When engine was colder i took it for a ride, it boosted fine and i had a wheel spin after 5psi in second gear, which means turbo is fine. After my first run engine got hotter and whenever i tried to boost again it felt like turbo was stuttering and chocking, i was barely moving. I have a thin turbo line, could that be because my turbo is not getting enough oil? But why was it boosting fine at first time? Will wait for car to get colder and i will try again and see what happens.

When you adjusted your BISS did you use the proper procedure to do it or did you just turn the screw? There is a proper technique. Link to VFAQ

Just because you can spin your wheel doesn't necessarly mean that your turbo is fine, but that doesn't mean there's anything wrong either. Oil feed lines tend to be 'thin' since they don't require much oil.

When you are at WOT what are your boost readings? Does it reach full boost or is it lower than normal?

It could be that you have a boost leak someplace that is causing the problem, you may also want to do an intake leak test.

If you're reaching full boost then you may be having your timing pulled due to knock. Do you have any way to log your car?

It might have been ok when your car was cold for a couple of reasons, 1. if it was a leak then it may have been that the leak doesn't appear after stuff has had a chance to expand. 2. the air going into the engine gets hotter as your car does and you're getting knock. you may want to go a point or 2 higher octane.

 

[civickiller]

It might have been ok when your car was cold for a couple of reasons, 1. if it was a leak then it may have been that the leak doesn't appear after stuff has had a chance to expand. 2. the air going into the engine gets hotter as your car does and you're getting knock. you may want to go a point or 2 higher octane.[/QUOTE]

I took part of my upper ic piping off and i found a huge hole in the rubber hose. I think that was why my car was sputtering even when i reach 10psi. I have a m100 logger that i bought off ebay, it was already programed with dsmmods program. I hooked it up and tried to connect but it does not connect for some reason. Something wrong with the logger i guess

 

[steve]

When you adjusted your BISS did you use the proper procedure to do it or did you just turn the screw? There is a proper technique. Link to VFAQ

No way he could have and still get a 900 RPM idle, unless he has a link and turned the idle up.

Steve

 

[civickiller]

It might have been ok when your car was cold for a couple of reasons, 1. if it was a leak then it may have been that the leak doesn't appear after stuff has had a chance to expand. 2. the air going into the engine gets hotter as your car does and you're getting knock. you may want to go a point or 2 higher octane.

i installed another rober hose, still nothing changed. I am using 92 octane, how can it get hot when i have intercoller? Any other ideas that may help me?

 

[Tommy31]

You have a 2G Talon, a normal Palm logger won't work (unless things have changed recently). It will likely work for a 1G. DSMLink would let you log properly.

It sounds to me like you still have a boost leak someplace. Do an intake leak test and make sure you take care of all the leaks.

Also follow the link that I posted before about your idle and set it properly.

The reason that it gets so hot is that the turbo is directly connected to your exhaust (600F-900F perhaps more) the heat from the turbo heats up the air as it comes through it. An intercooler can only do so much, especially if it's the stock side mount. On a warm day it wouldn't be unusual to see air temps under the hood at over 100F. Add on the heat from the turbo and the air will be really hot.

 

[civickiller]

I bought new set of wires, new plugs and played with safc little. That fixed my problem.
Now i have to deal with high idle, it idles at 2krpm after 20 min of driving. What can cause a high idle? I checked TB and everything looks fine.

 

[Tommy31]

Readjust your idle as per the vfaq as posted twice before.