Starting problem, need more power !

[dsm4life]

I been having this stupid starting problem that many other 2 g have been having . When trying to crank the morot i just get the clicking sound. Now on my TT i can see that when i turn the key the volts are dropping to like 10 and i know that is the problem. How can i get around this ? To start the car i have to keep turning the key back and forth really fast then it starts on like the 8th time.

 

[luv2rallye]

If it's not your battery, starter relay, or starter, another possibility is poor cable connections from the battery to the starter. I'm talking the big cables. The ends can get corroded, dirty, not tight, or partially broken (inside) where the cable meets the terminal. If there is even 0.1 ohm resistance in the path from battery to starter, it will drop so much voltage when you crank that there won't be enough voltage left on the starter (needs to be more than 10 volts at the starter). Remove and clean both ends of these cables and battery posts with sandpaper and secure tightly. Do both the battery positive to the starter and battery negative to engine (connection to engine must also be clean/tight). Also try wiggling them to check for breaks. After doing this if you measure the voltage across the starter itself while cranking and it's less than across the battery posts themselves (while cranking), one of the cables is your problem and needs to be replaced. You can measure the voltage drop across each cable while cranking to find out which - should be close to zero. Or you can connect a jumper cable from battery negative to engine block. If it now cranks your negative cable/connection is bad.

 

[dsm4life]

i redid my power cable to the starter and neg cable to the firewall (even striping the paint on firwall.) Battery is new , starter is new. Do you know if the black/yellow wire coming off the starter is just a normal ground ? I was thinking of cutting that and running it to the body for better ground. Right now it runs into the harness and i didnt want to touch till i found out what it went to.

 

[luv2rallye]

Do you know if the black/yellow wire coming off the starter is just a normal ground ? I was thinking of cutting that and running it to the body for better ground. Right now it runs into the harness and i didnt want to touch till i found out what it went to.

NO, NO , NO! That large black/yellow wire on the starter case IS the return wire for the huge amount of starter current that flows. It goes directly (thru the harness) to the battery negative. The starter MUST have it's OWN two large (4 ga) wires (+ and -) going directly to the battery to handle it's huge current draw (80-100 amps). Otherwise a voltage drop will occur while the starter is operating. This large black/yellow return wire may, in fact, be your problem! It must have perfectly clean and tight connections at both ends and not be cracked/damaged anywhere. You can easily verify if it is the problem by putting a battery jumper cable from battery negative to the engine block. If the starter problem goes away, that big return wire is your problem.

Note that the battery negative should have 2 large (4 ga) wires on it. One to the starter (or engine block) case and one to the firewall. Do NOT combine them in any way to have only 1 wire to the battery.

 

[dsm4life]

I dont have a wire that runs from the neg to the starter. I have one neg for firewall then the next to the starter bolts and block. Then i have a straight power wire from + to the starter. Then there is the little black/yellow wire that runs into the harness. If i am not mistaken.

 

[luv2rallye]

I dont have a wire that runs from the neg to the starter. I have one neg for firewall then the next to the starter bolts and block. Then i have a straight power wire from + to the starter. Then there is the little black/yellow wire that runs into the harness. If i am not mistaken.

The big wire that is on the starter bolts and block IS the starter negative which goes to battery negative. Although it will work if this starter bolt wire goes to firewall and then firewall to battery negative, you will have better power transfer (less resistance and voltage drop = more voltage at the starter) if you have the starter bolt wire go directly to battery negative. Going to firewall and then to battery, even if they are bolted together, is not as good as going directly to battery for the case of the starter which can draw 100 amps. The little black/yellow wire from starter to harness is the control wire which engages the starter (+12v) when the key is turned to start so don't mess with it (unless you have a partial break or short in it).

 

[gurrmanator]

I dont have a wire that runs from the neg to the starter. I have one neg for firewall then the next to the starter bolts and block. Then i have a straight power wire from + to the starter. Then there is the little black/yellow wire that runs into the harness. If i am not mistaken.

that black/yellow wire is your starter solenoid wire.when you turn the key that wire energizes the solenoid to make the starter turn.I have the same problem and I just bypassed everything because I got tired of tracing wires.

 

[dsm4life]

that black/yellow wire is your starter solenoid wire.when you turn the key that wire energizes the solenoid to make the starter turn.I have the same problem and I just bypassed everything because I got tired of tracing wires.

pleaseeeeeeeeeee tel me how i can bypass all that somehow to just get the right pwr to the starter so i can be done with this.

 

[luv2rallye]

Well if you want to bypass the starter relay, you can cut that small black/brown wire on the starter and connect a wire from it to a newly added push button (inside the car like on the dash). Then on the other side of the push button, connect a wire to a 10 amp fuse and from that to battery positive (or fusebox positive). This will unconditionally run the starter while the button is pressed - you still have to have the key on and make sure power is getting to the MFI system via the MFI relay (or the engine won't start). I think it will however with the key to ON position. No guarantees you might not have some other problem like a theft alarm going off since your not activating the real starter relay.

 

[dsm4life]

black/brown ...you mean black/yellow (maybe in my case TSI, i see you have GST). Well i can rig it up fast just to see if it fixes my problem.

 

[luv2rallye]

sorry - yes, I meant black/yellow.

 

[dsm4life]

just a little update, i did the push button today. So far works great, Thanks again for the info