No spark :[ need help

[intelectualism]

Hello, how many other things can affect no spark directly? I sure hope it's not alot of things, I've replaced the plugs and the distrubutor but I am not getting any spark at all. The engine turns over fine but is not starting (due to no spark). I'm really close to just giving up and just putting it in a shop

-New distributor
-New plugs

I guess that leaves...
-Cap/rotor
-Ignition module (power transistor)
-Wires (doubt it?)

Pleeaasseee help me

 

[ADrewzki]

The power transistor can be checked with a D-cell battery and a multimeter. You can check your wires for continuity. Those are both pretty easy to do and it'll eliminate some of your choices.

And "intellectualism" has two Ls.

 

[intelectualism]

The power transistor can be checked with a D-cell battery and a multimeter. You can check your wires for continuity. Those are both pretty easy to do and it'll eliminate some of your choices.

And "intellectualism" has two Ls.

I know it does, I had a whole thing going behind the sn when I made it for AIM. Also it doesn't fit with two Ls

As for the car, it has to be the power transistor correct? Thats basically all the stuff that has to deal with spark that I can think of.

 

[95gstHRCsuper20]

Hello, how many other things can affect no spark directly? I sure hope it's not alot of things, I've replaced the plugs and the distrubutor but I am not getting any spark at all. The engine turns over fine but is not starting (due to no spark). I'm really close to just giving up and just putting it in a shop

-New distributor
-New plugs

I guess that leaves...
-Cap/rotor
-Ignition module (power transistor)
-Wires (doubt it?)

Pleeaasseee help me

Check the crank sensor and cas. If either of theses don't read it wont send fire. If it was the ignition module in most cases you wouldn't get fuel either. Probably crank sensor. Park neutral swith cna give same problem if the vehicle doesn't think it is in p or n it won't fire. Unless it is a bypassed cluth but in this case the ecm thinks the clutch is in all the time. VJB

 

[Nt-Eclipse-Dail]

You said something about a distributor cap and rotor... Am I correct in assuming that you have the 1.8l NT Eclipse? If so, then you don't have the same power transistor and CAS set-up that the 2.0l DOHC cars have... On the 1.8l DSM there are not a whole lot of individual ignition parts that you can check/replace like the 2.0l. If you have a no-spark problem it may mean that you need a whole new distributor assembly. (or a remanufactured one) Did you replace the distributor on your car or the coil-pack???
If you do have the 1.8l (with a distributor) then: Why would you replace the Distributor without first replacing the Cap and Rotor to see if thats your problem...

We can probably help you fix your ride if you give us a little more info on exactly what kind of engine you have...

 

[intelectualism]

You said something about a distributor cap and rotor... Am I correct in assuming that you have the 1.8l NT Eclipse? If so, then you don't have the same power transistor and CAS set-up that the 2.0l DOHC cars have... On the 1.8l DSM there are not a whole lot of individual ignition parts that you can check/replace like the 2.0l. If you have a no-spark problem it may mean that you need a whole new distributor assembly. (or a remanufactured one) Did you replace the distributor on your car or the coil-pack???
If you do have the 1.8l (with a distributor) then: Why would you replace the Distributor without first replacing the Cap and Rotor to see if thats your problem...

We can probably help you fix your ride if you give us a little more info on exactly what kind of engine you have...

You are correct, I do have a 1.8L NT eclipse. I replaced the whole distributor yes. Why? I really am not sure why I did that first. Kinda funny, when we tried to use a volt meter to test the power transistor, the volt meter decieded to die on us so we couldn't figure if it was that eigher. I will go buy a cap and rotor on my day off and see if that's the problem.

If the cap and rotor doesn't do the trick eigher, what would be my next step?

What else would affect spark? Perhaps it's not getting power from somewhere? Even the shop manual only lists a few things that would affect spark ignition wise. I'm not sure what else to check if it's a bigger problem.

 

[jay_rod24]

You are correct, I do have a 1.8L NT eclipse. I replaced the whole distributor yes. Why? I really am not sure why I did that first. Kinda funny, when we tried to use a volt meter to test the power transistor, the volt meter decieded to die on us so we couldn't figure if it was that eigher. I will go buy a cap and rotor on my day off and see if that's the problem.

If the cap and rotor doesn't do the trick eigher, what would be my next step?

What else would affect spark? Perhaps it's not getting power from somewhere? Even the shop manual only lists a few things that would affect spark ignition wise. I'm not sure what else to check if it's a bigger problem.

Are you getting fuel? Crank sensor will cause no spark, no fuel on any cyl. Cam sensor will usually cause no spark on 2 cyl. but fuel on all cyl. I would do some more testing before you just buy a truck load of parts. A couple of batteries for that meter would probably be cheaper. You can use a test light on the power transistor if you have one of those. Locate your coil driver wires, connect the light to bat. positive, crank on the engine and see if it flashes. Get back with some test results!

 

[intelectualism]

Are you getting fuel? Crank sensor will cause no spark, no fuel on any cyl. Cam sensor will usually cause no spark on 2 cyl. but fuel on all cyl. I would do some more testing before you just buy a truck load of parts. A couple of batteries for that meter would probably be cheaper. You can use a test light on the power transistor if you have one of those. Locate your coil driver wires, connect the light to bat. positive, crank on the engine and see if it flashes. Get back with some test results!

I'm not sure how to test the crank sensor and the cam sensor The meter died, it goes haywire now, spitting out random numbers. I'm pretty noob at this

 

[jay_rod24]

I'm not sure how to test the crank sensor and the cam sensor The meter died, it goes haywire now, spitting out random numbers. I'm pretty noob at this

Do you have a manual and a test light? If not get one, you will need these all the time anyway. A test light is about 10-15 bucks. In the manual it will tell you what voltage your sensors should read and the test light will tell you if your coils are firing. I can't sit here and tell you how to do this stuff if you don't have the equipment to do.

 

[intelectualism]

Do you have a manual and a test light? If not get one, you will need these all the time anyway. A test light is about 10-15 bucks. In the manual it will tell you what voltage your sensors should read and the test light will tell you if your coils are firing. I can't sit here and tell you how to do this stuff if you don't have the equipment to do.

Manual, yes I have one. Test light, No, not yet, but I can get one. Oh ok It's all in the manual. Thanks I'll give it a try

 

[Nt-Eclipse-Dail]

You are correct, I do have a 1.8L NT eclipse. I replaced the whole distributor yes. Why? I really am not sure why I did that first. Kinda funny, when we tried to use a volt meter to test the power transistor, the volt meter decieded to die on us so we couldn't figure if it was that eigher. I will go buy a cap and rotor on my day off and see if that's the problem.

If the cap and rotor doesn't do the trick eigher, what would be my next step?

What else would affect spark? Perhaps it's not getting power from somewhere? Even the shop manual only lists a few things that would affect spark ignition wise. I'm not sure what else to check if it's a bigger problem.

The reason that your shop manual 'only lists a few things that would affect spark' is because on the 1.8l (which you have) most of your ignition related stuff is in the actual distributor. If your coil goes out - You get to buy a whole new distributor. You dont have the same exact CAS (crank or cam sensors) that the 2.0l engines have. You have a distributor instead... (Some of the advice the guys above gave you was for a 2.0l engine electrical system, You do NOT have one like this...)

You should be able to tell by looking at the cap and rotor if they NEED replacement. If the terminals inside the cap are worn or corroded looking then replace them. (last cap and rotor for me cost less than $12.00 new at Orilleys or Advance)

Assuming that your car IS turning over really good. I would spend a little time checking all of your connections (spark plug wires / sensors) and make sure your battery terminals are really clean. Something else to check: After you try to crank the car (while key is still in run position) Does your check engine light go out after a few seconds like normal? Or is the light on all the time? I am just wondering about the computer...

Is the car turning over really good like normal? (If your Neutral Safety Switch was messed up it would not even turn over, It would just 'click'...) Did you get a junkyard distributor or a remanufactured one? Did you swap the distributor yourself? There is an easy and fast way to swap or remove the distributor and the hard way... Your timing depends on this being done right.

Keep us advised and we might be able to help... Relax some too, You have less junk to deal with on the 1.8l . You will get it figured out soon!

James

 

[intelectualism]

The distributor is a re-man one and yes, I installed it myself. #1 was TDC and I matched up the markings on the distributor. I wasn't too sure bout the cap and rotor so I went ahead and got a new one (the rotor's contact was brown and furry looking )

It turns over fine, good and healthy. As for the CE light, I know it comes on, but I'm not quite sure if it was turning off or not. Hard to work on my car car because it's at my friends house and not mine.


So it's even harder to get a 4g63 motor running well? Eek, I was planning on making a gsx my next purchase too.

 

[Nt-Eclipse-Dail]

I just recently bought a 2.0l GSX for my wife. I got it for $200 bucks because it would not crank (no spark - bad CAS) and the kid that owned it gave up on it. He had put 'way' more than $200 worth of new parts on it, I could not pass it up...

If you like DSM's then by all means get one! DSM's are not hard to work on if you have patience. There are also many experts on this (and other) sites that will be more than happy to help you out. (Search under some of GTM's posts, The guy is amazing...)


When I reinstalled my distributor recently I got number 1 to TDC. I left the rotor on the distributor so as to make sure it was pointing straight down (made marks to be sure). I then lifed up on the rocker assembly a little bit on the belt side (timing belt was removed) and slid it in (making sure nothing moved or turned and everything was still lined up). I then tightened the rocker assembly bolts back down and was done... Way too easy if you lift the rocker shaft some so nothing turns as you slide it in...

Don't give up on your car, You will get it figured out.

James

 

[intelectualism]

I just recently bought a 2.0l GSX for my wife. I got it for $200 bucks because it would not crank (no spark - bad CAS) and the kid that owned it gave up on it. He had put 'way' more than $200 worth of new parts on it, I could not pass it up...

If you like DSM's then by all means get one! DSM's are not hard to work on if you have patience. There are also many experts on this (and other) sites that will be more than happy to help you out. (Search under some of GTM's posts, The guy is amazing...)


When I reinstalled my distributor recently I got number 1 to TDC. I left the rotor on the distributor so as to make sure it was pointing straight down (made marks to be sure). I then lifed up on the rocker assembly a little bit on the belt side (timing belt was removed) and slid it in (making sure nothing moved or turned and everything was still lined up). I then tightened the rocker assembly bolts back down and was done... Way too easy if you lift the rocker shaft some so nothing turns as you slide it in...

Don't give up on your car, You will get it figured out.

James

I love the car too much to give up on it. Although it is o nly a 1.8L I've had some fun stomping on the ricer civic "Si-R" and "Type R" around here. Specially the ones that you can still make out the DX symbol on. They seem to think they are invincible but still have no torque

So that GSX you bought wouldn't crank OR spark? eek.. how long did it take to get her running again?


EDIT: I replace the cap and rotor, and still no success. When I try to start the car the CEL isn't coming on at all anymore (I could swear it as coming on the other day) WTF I need to get a voltmeter... If I remember right, the last time when the voltmeter was working, the wires weren't giving off a good reading. But I didn't think all the wires would have gone out at the same time? So I thought nothing of it. Anything else I should check. You said that the Crank/Cam sensors aren't directly related to spark in my 1.8L, so what else would be? All these failed attempts are making me lose hope a little. BUT, I know we'll run out of things to check and eventually we'll find it... i hope.

 

[intelectualism]

bump, need more help.

 

[L2RTSiAWD]

bump, need more help.

Bumping is against the rules.