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Wont start, tried everything please help im begging

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5spd4life

Probationary Member
23
0
Apr 24, 2005
Grafton, Ohio
ok heres the story, i bought my 1992 mitsubishi eclipse GS 5 speed 16 valve dohc from columbus ohio about 4 months ago, payed 600 bucks for it and had it flat bedded back to south of cleveland, when i bought the car i was told it didnt start, and they didnt know why, they had pulled it into their driveway turned it off, went back out to start it, and it wouldnt start (odd i know) they said it ran perfect before this mishap had happened. now ive put 700 dollars and 90+ hour into it and im left with a non-running car, and running out of funds, ive sent the ecm out and had it rebuilt, and started testing everything, so far i found that i cant here a fuel pump running, i have no spark, and no power running to the crankshaft cam shaft sencor, when i turn the key, theres no check engine light that comes on either, ive never heard of this happening, i was told it was probally a shorted wire, or a broken wire somwhere, if you guys have any idea itd be grreatly appriciated, i hate feeling like a newb.....

the power transistor tested bad on it, so that could be my spark problem, but why dont i have power to the crank/cam shaft sencor, i pulled the lead off it, and tested that with a volt meter the way the manual says and it says i dont have any power in any of the terminals :(

please help i want this thing going by summer (total babe magnent:p)
 
Just had a similar problem with my GSX.
Symptoms:
All dash lights turn on (no CEL), good voltage (possibly bad amperage, no meter), heard a whine when key was turned to 'ignition' position (always been there, suspected fuel pump... stockers are almost silent). Drove it, parked, would not turn over.

Cause:
Starter beginning to fail. Possible binding or failure of the actuator solenoid.

Temporary fix:
Mechanic proved the failing starter by taking a BIG screwdriver (aka: get a foot or two long pole) and thumped the starter with the end while I was trying to crank it. Turned right over, started up.

Permanent fix:
Replace starter. $80-130 (plus labor), depending on what part you buy, and where you buy it from.



No idea if you have the same issue, but if the symptoms match, might give it a try.
 
5spd4life said:
...
they had pulled it into their driveway turned it off, went back out to start it, and it wouldnt start (odd i know)
...
if you guys have any idea itd be grreatly appriciated, i hate feeling like a newb.....

the power transistor tested bad on it, so that could be my spark problem, but why dont i have power to the crank/cam shaft sencor, i pulled the lead off it, and tested that with a volt meter the way the manual says and it says i dont have any power in any of the terminals :(

please help i want this thing going by summer (total babe magnent:p)

Grafton is about 10 miles from Oberlin where my son is if you are into music. Unfortunately though his mechanics skills are good he hates working on cars. :)
................

Actually it's a lot more common than you might think especially with DSMs. These are high maintenance cars and it becomes worse the older they get.
.............

Did you check the main fuse, a test light to the large B+ wire on the back of the alternator?

Have you checked the oil pressure switch / sensor (not the sender)? This is responsible for turning the fuel pump off should the car go upside down. It also may turn the ignition coils off through the ECU.

Did you check the valve timing and do a a compression check? Have you checked the CAS?

Cheers,
GTM
 
ill get to checking, im in oberlin 4-5 days out of the week, and all my friends go to JVS (schooling) is there a fuel shut off switch in these things, i dealt with a 1994 cavalier for a year and a half, thats all i know is chevys, mainly 2.2 chevy engines and trannies, when i got the chance to buy this dsm i almost cried, but now im almost crying cause it wont start....if there is a fuel shut off switch where is it located?
 
5spd4life said:
ill get to checking, im in oberlin 4-5 days out of the week, and all my friends go to JVS (schooling)

is there a fuel shut off switch in these things, i dealt with a 1994 cavalier for a year and a half, thats all i know is chevys, mainly 2.2 chevy engines and trannies, when i got the chance to buy this dsm i almost cried, but now im almost crying cause it wont start....if there is a fuel shut off switch where is it located?

Unless you play flute you probably won't meet though there can't be too many faded blue Volvo 740s in town.
....

No fuel shutoff valve, there is a relay which is known to fail, since many of the relays are the same it's possible to swap them around though I don't have specific info which is which.

Nothing wrong being a neubie, we all started someplace and tried to not make the same mistake twice. If you don't have, a manual is critical, factory best but Haynes seem to have a lot of trouble shooting and testing that others don't.

Cheers,
GTM
 
i tested the efi relay, but no voltage to the crankshaft sencor, and what the heck is a CAS i feel dumb, but anyway, why dont i get a check engine light?
 
5spd4life said:
i tested the efi relay, but no voltage to the crankshaft sencor, and what the heck is a CAS i feel dumb, but anyway, why dont i get a check engine light?

CAS, Cam Angle Sensor.

The light could be the bulb, the oil sensor previously mentioned, or something in that circuit. You are just going to have to have a schematic to test these along with the ECU.

Cheers,
GTM
 
Did you replace the crank sensor or using the one on it? Well, you might as well tell us all the things you have replaced so we have a little more to go on.

BTW, CAS is Cam Angle Sensor.
 
ok i got the ecm rebuilt and tested with a lifetime warranty....
i didnt check the CAS yet, thats tommarows job, but i did test the power lead that plugs into it, it reads at .003 volts, and the book says i should have 12 volts (wtf?!?!?!!!!!11ONE!!@1) i followed the wire to the firewall and there dosent seem to be melting or breakage, i bought a used pwer transistor (waste of money) and when i tested it according to the haynes manual, its burnt too, im pulling the dash tommarow also, should i replace the grounds?

comeon guys must get it running, my race team is counting on my car, i got a little over a month then i got to race for slips for a sentra (as far as he knows my engines stock, but once its running i got stuff waiting, including a 2 1/2 in exaughst from the headers back)
 
i really need to get this beast running, please gimme some more suggestions, i tested the wire to the cas at a number of different points, and i found i have 12 volts inside the car, but somewhere between the dash and the firewall i lose my voltage...broken wire? should i just splice into the hot wire under the dash and run the new wire to the back of the plug :confused: i think ill try that with a fuse hooked to it so it wont fry itll just pop the fuse, does that sound like what i should do guys....
 
5spd4life said:
i really need to get this beast running, please gimme some more suggestions,

What were the results I asked you to check?

Cheers,
GTM
 
ok thanks for all the help, i fixed the problem....i had either a short or break, or something to that extent in the hot wire running from the ecm to the CAS sencor, all i did was found a hot wire that sent no volts when the key was aoff and 12 volts when it was turned on, then i spliced into that hot wire and ran a new one...
 
5spd4life said:
ok thanks for all the help, i fixed the problem....i had either a short or break, or something to that extent in the hot wire running from the ecm to the CAS sencor, all i did was found a hot wire that sent no volts when the key was aoff and 12 volts when it was turned on, then i spliced into that hot wire and ran a new one...

You are welcome, and thanks for letting us know when we get something right once in a while. :)

You can't imagine what it's like sitting here trying to read these hen scratches and turn it into something meaningful. Glad it only took a couple of days instead of a month or more.

Cheers,
GTM
 
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