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NEED HELP no spark ........when warm wtf

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igopoopy

15+ Year Contributor
2,051
7
May 5, 2004
tucson, Arizona
my car will run great till it has been at operating temp for about 20 min.
then it will start to studder (then i floor it nothing happens) then it will go to 0 rpm
and die.
if i let it cool it will work normaly :confused:

i did a compression test and they where all good :)

fule is good
air is good
when it runns like shit i dont get spark :confused:

i put a new Coolant temp sensor caus the old one was messed up.
ecu is good


(it started to run like shit after i didnt put the oil cap on and got oil every where.)
 
igopoopy said:
my car is a 91.....6 bolt does it have a crank angle sensor

It's at the rear of the valve cover and head and driven by the intake cam. The windings when the engine gets hot (operating temp) will open up or short inside. Not a repair item, must be replaced with used or new unit and then the engine timing set.

Buy a manual, has test procedures to check. If you remove, mark exact position with a scratch line so you can get back correctly. Also note the blade drive, it's not the same on both sides and it must go back together the same way. With the key on, rotate the blade, you should have injectors and plugs firing. If not, could be bad CAS, ECU, harness plugs and few other things. Buy a manual if you are going to do anything besides chk oil and water.

Cheers,
GTM
 
GTM said:
It's at the rear of the valve cover and head and driven by the intake cam. The windings when the engine gets hot (operating temp) will open up or short inside. Not a repair item, must be replaced with used or new unit and then the engine timing set.

Buy a manual, has test procedures to check. If you remove, mark exact position with a scratch line so you can get back correctly. Also note the blade drive, it's not the same on both sides and it must go back together the same way. With the key on, rotate the blade, you should have injectors and plugs firing. If not, could be bad CAS, ECU, harness plugs and few other things. Buy a manual if you are going to do anything besides chk oil and water.

Cheers,
GTM
LOL i have one its in my car(on the other side of town my CAS gets verry hot is that normal or is that why its broken
 
igopoopy said:
LOL i have one its in my car(on the other side of town my CAS gets verry hot is that normal or is that why its broken

I wouldn't think it should be so hot as to blister you. It's not something I've tested to see if I can put my hand on it but it would also be my guess they would put a warning and I don't ever remember seeing one.

It would be reasonable to be suspect this is being cause by a short. These ain't cheap new or used unless you have Pick Your Part type yard near by. I seem to recall that someone does rebuild them but still $80-$90??. If it were a $10 part I'd say go buy it, so try to test before and then test when you have failure.

Get someone to take you across town for the manual.

Cheers,
GTM
 
GTM said:
If it were a $10 part I'd say go buy it, so try to test before and then test when you have failure.

Get someone to take you across town for the manual.

Cheers,
GTM
its $50 so maby and its hot enough that if you hold your hand to it for a long time you can get burnt :thumbdown

and now im in mexico over 10 hour drive :laugh:
 
igopoopy said:
its $50 so maby and its hot enough that if you hold your hand to it for a long time you can get burnt :thumbdown

and now im in mexico over 10 hour drive :laugh:

How can we help you?

PM email.

What part of Mexico?

GTM
 
igopoopy said:
its $50 so maby and its hot enough that if you hold your hand to it for a long time you can get burnt :thumbdown

and now im in mexico over 10 hour drive :laugh:

I have had experience in Mexico, you might get it rewound for $10 and have better quality. I/we are standing by ready to help.

Rest easy, enjoy the wonderful people, culture, and environment. What you see up here is not Mexico.

Cheers,
GTM
 
well im back from mexico im going to work on my car tomorow....is there any way to test the cas(will it say in the book)?
 
igopoopy said:
well im back from mexico im going to work on my car tomorow....is there any way to test the cas(will it say in the book)?

Yes as I recall it does have test procedures but the problem you may run into is that it's failing when the engine is hot. I seen this sort of thing on other cars where by the time you get it off it's cooled off and shows to be good. Still you may be able to unplug the electrical connection and get an ohm meter on the pins and get some meaningful info.

The fact you indicate it gets really hot suggests a short which would give low ohm readings. If you can find one at a wrecking yard for $20 grab it, they fail often enough that you won't have any problem unloading it. Do pay close attention to the blade drive, for it's not really obvious how it is indexed and you can get it in 180 degrees off and it won't start. Set the crank pulley on ignition of #1, then remove the CAS after marking the adjuster so you can get it back on without retiming the engine. Use a dab nail polish on the blade so you know how it goes together if you can't find the mark on the blade.

Keep us posted with your progress.

Cheers,
GTM
 
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