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where are the injector resistors are on a 92 talon AWD?

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Maxximillion

20+ Year Contributor
60
0
Oct 28, 2002
does anybody know where the injector resistors are on a 92 talon AWD? i've looked and looked but no clue. i'm getting no signal or pulse to my injectors after plugging a noid light into them. and the only thing in betweent the injectors and the ecu is the resistor(s). so i'm ruling out all cheaper solutions first. i'm betting on it being the ECU. could it be a sensor causing this? what sensor would have direct impact on operation of injectors? i've checked my fuel, spark, and timing and that all good. just no injector pulse. car cranks over fine, full battery. ANY THOUGHTS?? desparatly appreciated.

jason.
 
hey karbon thanks for the link to the pic. i didn't think it would be that visible. do you or anybody else have a way to test it?
 
hey yeah i do actually have a 92 talon awd turbo. this profile is my friends that i've used a couple of times. i guess i should get one of my own, i'm starting to be on here often enough.
 
okay, i was just logged on from my friends comp as maxximillion but i'm now using my own profile now so thanks again for that link for the pic of the resistor. does anybody know how to test the resistor?
 
FWIW the resistor pack is on the positive side of the injectors and should have power whenever the ignition is "on". The ecu has control over the negative side of the injector so check to see if thier getting positive power at the injector harness with the ignition "on", if they are then the reistor pack is ok and check into the ecu, cas, and thier respective wiring.
 
hey, thank you. that was exactly what i needed know. at this poing i'm doubting its the resistor pack being the problem. i'll go test it right now. i'm betting it being on the ECU. does anybody have an exact wiring diagram for a 92 talon AWD TSI ECU???

on another note, i did a test according to the haynes manual for the CAS and my readings were a lot lower than what the book said they should be. and i have 2 questions.

1. when you take the CAS off, does the position of the spindle thing that spins with the cam matter? like if i were to take the cas off and spin the spindle by hand say 180 degrees, does that affect the reading according to the ECU? or just as long as the "wings" of the spindle fit in the grooves of the cam its allright?

2. even though i did get some lower readings than whats said in the haynes book, i still get spark. i've read in the book that if there were a fault in the cas sensor, that there would be no spark. but my spark is fine. or would the spark be there but just out of timing with the engine? or would the cas sensor affect the injectors too?

my car has backfired once or twice in the attempts to start it, and a while before i decided to do some service to the timing belt area, i did notice that my engine light come on for a few seconds while driving, but no adverse affect on the performance of the car. i checked it once and it indicated that my TPS code came on.

just one more thing to note. i did purchase a compression tester and attempted to get a reading out of 3 of my cylinders but when i cranked the car over i didn't get a reading at all. not even a flicker of the needle on any of the cylinders. i want to attribute that to a lack of tightening or a bad seal between the tester connector and the plug hole but i'm kinda scared i bent some valves. if i crank the car over by hand i don't hear any crunching or bad sounds from the engine and it feels like theres compression. when i cranked with the starter i never heard any bad sounds exept for a couple of backfires before. any thoughts???

Jason.
 
mitsubluetalon said:
1. when you take the CAS off, does the position of the spindle thing that spins with the cam matter? like if i were to take the cas off and spin the spindle by hand say 180 degrees, does that affect the reading according to the ECU? or just as long as the "wings" of the spindle fit in the grooves of the cam its allright?
Yes, it makes a big difference. If it is 180* it will be spraying fuel at the back of a closed intake valve. The service manual should tell you how to align it correctly.

If you are not getting any compression then you have other, unfortunatly, more serious problems. Line up your cam timing marks and make sure the mark on the crank pulley lines up correctly.
 
As stated above, you can put the sensor on 180* off. vfaq shows how to put it on. The car has to be at TDC. If the starter smashed the valves, it already did the work. You would be able to turn it over by hand afterwards without much effort. How did this problem come? You said you checked for fuel and it was fine. If you have fuel, that rules out anything in the injector circuit. If you have spark, I would say valves. To get a car to run, all you need is a little spark, little fuel, and a little air. If there is no compression (bent vavles) the car will sound somewhat weak when cranking and not start.
 
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