Metallic tapping/pinging coming from wheel well.

[BlackbirdOfPrey]

I have a metallic-esque tapping coming from my driver side wheel well. I cannot see anything loose that may cause this problem. All lugs are tight, its not the wheel center piece, tires are new. It is coming from right around where the calipers are, but it isn't coming from that. It is something that rotates with the wheel, because when I speed up it taps faster, and slow down it gets slower. It happens some times, but if I hit a bump it will start randomly. It is annoying as all hell, and almost sounds like a loose heat shield, but it is on the opposite side of any heat shields. Any suggestions?

 

[GTM]

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It is something that rotates with the wheel, because when I speed up it taps faster, and slow down it gets slower. It happens some times, but if I hit a bump it will start randomly. It is annoying as all hell, and almost sounds like a loose heat shield, but it is on the opposite side of any heat shields. Any suggestions?

What speeds?

Worn C/V joint? May be something like a roofing nail in the tire, usually a small stone will kick out. Lug bolts not tight. Rotor warped, brake pads worn, pad anti squeal shims... broken cotter pin.

Jack the car up and inspect tire, rotate by hand, look at C,V joint boots, etc. see if you can duplicate.

Cheers,
GTM

 

[Doubletake]

Just a thought;

I know that a worn out hydraulic timing belt adjustor can cause a tapping sound, if you have never changed it, maybe you should check it out. Mine went and it rattled off and on depending on the temp.

 

[BlackbirdOfPrey]

What speeds?

Worn C/V joint? May be something like a roofing nail in the tire, usually a small stone will kick out. Lug bolts not tight. Rotor warped, brake pads worn, pad anti squeal shims... broken cotter pin.

Jack the car up and inspect tire, rotate by hand, look at C,V joint boots, etc. see if you can duplicate.

Cheers,
GTM

I checked the tire, nothing stuck in it, the brake pads are new, and the rotors are good. Timing belt adjustor is new. So that leaves a possible CV joint, or cotter pin? Could it also be a U joint? As far as speeds, it ranges from slow 5 miles an hour to about 60-ish, past that I can't hear it.

 

[BlackbirdOfPrey]

Just wanted to post an update.

I found out the source of the noise was a warped rotor after all. The problem was that the imperfection in the rotor was too small for me to have detected. I had to take it to a shop. So got a new rotor and everything is peachy.

 

[GTM]

Just wanted to post an update.

I found out the source of the noise was a warped rotor after all. The problem was that the imperfection in the rotor was too small for me to have detected. I had to take it to a shop. So got a new rotor and everything is peachy.

Thanks for the update, can you describe in a bit more detail what you found to be the problem with the rotor? Were there eliptical hot spots, glazed spots etc.?

My son's car had some horrible brake chatter from the rear only in reverse but he never wanted to get into sloving the problem. I mentioned it in your case but only as a remote possibility.

Cheers,
GTM

 

[BlackbirdOfPrey]

I don't really know how to describe it, it was put on a lathe and as it turned it wasn't level. The rotor was old and probably too thin and just warped under heat. I wish I could site a specific cause, but I don't know for sure. I also had break chatter before from a different source, it turned out to be a worn pad (VERY worn) and caused horrible squeaking noise. Just goes to show how well you can find a problem without using machines these days.....

 

[GTM]

I don't really know how to describe it, it was put on a lathe and as it turned it wasn't level. The rotor was old and probably too thin and just warped under heat. I wish I could site a specific cause, but I don't know for sure. I also had break chatter before from a different source, it turned out to be a worn pad (VERY worn) and caused horrible squeaking noise. Just goes to show how well you can find a problem without using machines these days.....

That was fine, it's a "brake lathe" and they found it wasn't "true" ... didn't rotate in an exact plane and was worn too thin to cut/machine to make it true.

Cars have such wierd personalities and make unusual noises, just when I thought I'd heard them all along with their owners description...

Cheers,
GTM

 

[CarTrader29]

Wow I'm having the same problem as you! Everything looks ok and I thought it was the dust sheild. I was gonna take it off this weekend. Maybe I'll just do a brake job and change the rotor. I'm getting the exact same symptoms as you. I even thought the driveshaft was hitting a heatshield or something. Mine is coming from the driverside rear wheel well. Sounds like a person taking a hammer and tapping something back there. Faster I drive the faster it taps. Hopefully my problem is the same as yours.

 

[GTM]

Wow I'm having the same problem as you! Everything looks ok and I thought it was the dust sheild. I was gonna take it off this weekend. Maybe I'll just do a brake job and change the rotor.
...

Unfortunately there is no sure fire way for a lay person to check for warped rotors unless they pull a wheel and reset the lug nuts. Rotating by hand might show a wobble in the disk or feel it come up tight and then get loose. A dial indicator can be used if available but unless it's difficult to remove the rotor they will just chuck it up on the brake lathe and take a cut if it will pass on minimum thickness.

I do want to caution anyone to be careful when making judgment calls when they read of similar complaints for they don't always have to be the same. Noises and sounds are very subjective, one person says it sounds like a woodpecker and another says it sounds like a horse getting shod. Direction, location, conditions vary, again subjective diagnosis can lead to incorrect evaluation.

Another diagnostic process which can be helpful is to make sure the pads are withdrawn a small amount, pinch of the hydraulic line feeding that wheel and go for a road test. Remember one wheel will not be braking so caution must be used to prevevent dangerous situations like skids etc. If it didn't change then you got the wrong wheel or barking up the wrong tree.

Using the hand brake can be helpful in isolating pedal pulsation unless it uses a a different set of brake pads which self center.

Cheers,
GTM

 

[BlackbirdOfPrey]

Wow I'm having the same problem as you! Everything looks ok and I thought it was the dust sheild. I was gonna take it off this weekend. Maybe I'll just do a brake job and change the rotor. I'm getting the exact same symptoms as you. I even thought the driveshaft was hitting a heatshield or something. Mine is coming from the driverside rear wheel well. Sounds like a person taking a hammer and tapping something back there. Faster I drive the faster it taps. Hopefully my problem is the same as yours.

I did reposition my dust shield also, it was only about a 1/16 away and could have caused issues as well. And GTM you had it right on, I wasn't sure if there was a more technical term, but that was it to a "Q". The rotors were too thin to remachine. Now I'm wondering about my other rotors..... On a DSM if it isn't one thing, its another.....

 

[GTM]

I did reposition my dust shield also, it was only about a 1/16 away and could have caused issues as well. And GTM you had it right on, I wasn't sure if there was a more technical term, but that was it to a "Q". The rotors were too thin to remachine. Now I'm wondering about my other rotors..... On a DSM if it isn't one thing, its another.....

All things considered curb side rotors get more abuse because they get rain and mud on them.

You need to find the minimum thickness specification for the rotor. Using an open end metric wrench try to get it to fit on the rotor, if it does then it's too thin and needs replacing. If there is a ridge on the outside edge you will have to select the next size up and make an educated guess. A micrometer or vernier caliper is of course the best way but what I suggested is quick and dirty.

Cheers,
GTM