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Weird clutch issues

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Parsalian05

15+ Year Contributor
68
0
Nov 30, 2003
Minneapolis, Minnesota
for the last few month or so, whenever i put my clutch in, my idle will drop a few hundred rpms. sometimes ill be turning and shifting into 2nd and my car will just die because i put the clutch in and the rpms dropped too low. ive already turned up the BISS screw so the car idles a little better (like 700-900, depending on how warmed up it is).

another problem that just started a few days ago that im a bit more worried about: the driver side of my engine rattles/clatters when i put the clutch in. the more i push the clutch in, the louder it gets, and if i rev the engine with the clutch in, the rattling will get faster as the rpms increase. no rattle with the clutch depressed though. the sound seems to be coming from the lower pulley that's part of the power steering/T belt.

BTW - i replaced the clutch w/ act 2600 in july last summer (with a machined stock flywheel) and replaced the master/slave cyl like 3 months ago. also, no problems with left turns or CW whatsoever.

ive read a dozen threads of rattling with the clutch NOT in (bad TOB) but not with the clutch IN. any ideas?
 
The noise you're describing from the lower pulley the alternator belt is connected to, that lower pulley is the crank pulley or harmonic balancer. Before mine completely come seperated, it was making lifter like noise, do your belts squeel during cold start?
 
no squeak on cold starts but the drive belt squeaks when it's cold outside. someone told me its no big deal and to use candle wax on it to quiet it down, so id waxed it up a few times over the last year or so... could a squeaky belt eventually cause the rattling im hearing now?
 
Parsalian05 said:
no squeak on cold starts but the drive belt squeaks when it's cold outside. someone told me its no big deal and to use candle wax on it to quiet it down, so id waxed it up a few times over the last year or so... could a squeaky belt eventually cause the rattling im hearing now?

It's more of a sign rather than cause. Keep in mind though sqeak can be caused by other reasons as well, not limited to a bad crank pulley.
 
Just take a look at the crank pulley. It is two pieces with rubber separating the two pieces. The rubber gets old and the pulley can separate.
 
Hate to say it but it your problems sound like crank walk. That 2600# pressure plate is a serious stress on the thrust bearing and can cause it to fail quickly.

1. Dies while turning, one of the first leading indicators, turning left is the common indicator but turning in general will do it.
2. RPM drops while clutch in, another leading indicator.
3. Scraping/Grinding when clutch in, crank is being pushed forcing pully into the shroud housing.
 
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