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done with rebuild...problem!!

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DAC96

15+ Year Contributor
69
0
Oct 10, 2004
Apple Valley, Minnesota
Ok I just finished my rebuild and I brought it outside to try and start it for the first time...when I try to start it, it turns over but it seems like its really resisting. Then after a 30 sec. of trying to start , smoke starts to come from under my intake mani. it smells like electrical. Anyways I checked and checked my timming and the tension, and everything is good, the only thing I wasn't sure that was to spec was the tension of the alternator belt and the power steering belt. Is it possible that I have those on to tight? also It will fire once or twice every time I try to start it, but then It just starts to smoke, and thats when I quit...Any Ideas or sugestions? Thanks

Derek

oh yeah if it matters it's -2 out right now
 
Did you cycle the crank by hand a few times without the plugs in before putting it all back together? That would tell you if you had a binding problem with the valves/cams. The smoking may just be leftover crap like anti-freeze and/or oil laying around after the rebuild. I would vote for anti-freeze since the smell is more unique.
 
halligoo said:
Did you cycle the crank by hand a few times without the plugs in before putting it all back together? That would tell you if you had a binding problem with the valves/cams. The smoking may just be leftover crap like anti-freeze and/or oil laying around after the rebuild. I would vote for anti-freeze since the smell is more unique.

Yep I turned the crank with just the pistons in...15lbs on the torque wrench, then the head and timming belt... 35lbs at most, then with power steering and alternator, not much harder...So why would it be anti freeze I wouldn't think that by turning it over for only 30 secs would get something hot enough to burn anti freeze???
 
DAC96 said:
Yep I turned the crank with just the pistons in...15lbs on the torque wrench, then the head and timming belt... 35lbs at most, then with power steering and alternator, not much harder...So why would it be anti freeze I wouldn't think that by turning it over for only 30 secs would get something hot enough to burn anti freeze???


It wouldnt get hot enough like you said. Somthing is wrong electicaly if there is a smell and smoke. Since you said from under the intake manifold.. id suggest checking your starter cables. And starter itself.
 
Ok new question, I had a loose wire to the starter so I fixed it, but now I can turn the engine over for about a min before the battery goes dead...it will fire a couple times but thats it. Can I put a little starter fluid directly into the cylinders to try and give it a quick jump to see if it will catch itself ...or is that a real bad idea. Thanks
derek
 
DAC96 said:
Ok new question, I had a loose wire to the starter so I fixed it, but now I can turn the engine over for about a min before the battery goes dead...it will fire a couple times but thats it. Can I put a little starter fluid directly into the cylinders to try and give it a quick jump to see if it will catch itself ...or is that a real bad idea. Thanks
derek


so now it cranks and doesnt start? .... Do not put starter fluid into the cylinders.. not a good idea. If you want to try to force start it, your best bet is to do a rolling start... but thats not gonna fix the problem.
 
ok well tommorow its suppose to be in the mid 20's outside so I'm going to wait till then to try again, I just don't understand why the damn thing won't start....here are a couple factors why maybe

- 1/4 tank year old gas ( I just added 3 gallons of fresh gas today though)
- high of 0 for the last couple days
- battery wont last more than one min. of cranking

is there anything else that I could be overlooking, anything else I should check or try besides the normal shit like checking for spark and what not
thanks


Edit: " so now it cranks and doesn't start "

it has always cranked, it's just that the starter was smoking yesterday, utill i found a loose wire
 
check everything.. Make sure you have a good charge on the batt... hell, just leave the charger on it while your trying to start it. Check for fuel, make sure you got pressure. And check your spark.
 
sounds good I'll give it another shot tommorow and let you know how it goes, thanks for the help
 
there is also a fuse you should check... i dont know where it is on a 2g.. but its your multi port injection fuse.
 
Fattie92 said:
there is also a fuse you should check... i dont know where it is on a 2g.. but its your multi port injection fuse.


ok, but what would happen if that fuse was blown, I wouldn't get any fuel right?? because I'm pretty sure I'm getting fuel because it does fire once and a while...also maybe a little more info for you: the reason for the rebuild...rear balance shaft bearing spun and somehow my cam angle sensor was shredded from when it happened, I think it jumped timming or something when it I lost the balance bearing. So I decided to do a complete rebuild. So could any other sensors have gone bad when I lost my CAS??
 
I thought you didn't have to adjust the 2g ones...just unblot old one ...bolt on new one, is that correct or is there something that needs to be adjusted??
 
well I think I found the problem...I finally had a friend come over to help me check spark, well it isn't firing on #1 and #4, So I swaped coil packs with a spare that I new was good...same thing happend. So I started thinking CAS, on a 2g or at least 95-96 the CAS is located on the inside of the intake cam, and there are two viens that cycle through it with the rotation of the cam. when one vein goes through I believe it sends a signal to fire 1 half of the coil and then when the other vien passes through in sends a signal to the other half of the coil...well I found that one of the viens was slightly bent and was rubbing against the CAS causing it not to send a signal to one half of the coil. So does everything I'm saying sound correct, could this be my problem?
thanks
 
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