clutch engaging right off floor

[kamigouki]

i seem to grind gears too often because i have no play in my clutch at all, even to get it into gear, it is really annoying. i took it to mitsubishi and they said that my adjustment was maxed and i might need to replace the clutch assembly. i dont know what to do, i havent checked it myself yet but something must be done. also my motor squeels like heel all the time. they said it might be the tensioner, but i really havent had time to check. should i wd40 it and see what happens or just replace it. my motor has 115k on original motor so the tensioner might just be shot, no idea, plz help.

 

[krazywhitboy]

usually the squeeling is a belt. mine does it, every person i know with a dsm has that problem. i suggest replacing all the belts, especially the timing belt (if you haven't done so already). that should take care of the squeeling.

as far as the grinding of gears, i had the same problem in my 1g. double check the fluid level, and check that the pedal adjustment is all the way out. i replaced my entire clutch, master and slave cylinders, and adjusted the pedal all the way, and it still would engage right on the floor. what i had to do was make a whole new longer rod for my master cylinder, tho i don't suggest doing this since i'm sure its not good for the master cylinder. i did that, and it fixed my problem, everyone told me that my 4th gear was shot, but after i made a longer rod, it was perfect.....hope that helped!

 

[kamigouki]

yea thats awesome, i will get the belts taken care of soon. how did you change the master bolt, is there a vfaq for it or anything. how long have you had it done.

 

[miteclgst]

Bleed the clutch lines to make sure no air got in them, air will compress a lot easier than the fluid and will cause a sloppy dis/engagementI would check to make sure that your master cylinder isn't leaking. Just look behind the pedal, if the rod is wet then the seals are leaking. If the seals are leaking theny you won't be compressing the fluid in the cylinder like you should and that could cause the problem. . I rebuilt my master cylinder and all of my clutch problems were fixed. http://www.plymouthlaser.com/ has a how to on replacing the master cylinder all together. if the master is fine then check the slave. Eliminate the small stuff first then go on to the big stuff. Worst case sinerio you replace all the small stuff and you still have a problem, you get the clutch replaced and now you are running on a totally new updated system.

 

[oldman]

It's your pedal assembly, the dealer is right but you don't need a new one.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=96981

and

http://www.taboospeedshop.com/clutch_pedal_assembly.htm

It's a lot of work but it's the only way. If you keep running with the ajustment rod all the way out, you will eventually blow out your slave cylnder.

 

[kamigouki]

i know this may be really dumb to ask, but if i bleed it and it is still the same way, would it be possible to just have the rod from the master replaced with a longer and that would solve the problem. that is what i got from taboo's site. i have an act2100 in it right now and it has less then 10k on it.

 

[oldman]

i know this may be really dumb to ask, but if i bleed it and it is still the same way, would it be possible to just have the rod from the master replaced with a longer and that would solve the problem. that is what i got from taboo's site. i have an act2100 in it right now and it has less then 10k on it.

1. Did you bleed it correctly? Follow vfaq under slave cylnder replacement article. If you just bleed it by opening the bleeder valve without attaching a hose to it and submerge it in fluid, air will get back in the system.

2. The longer push rod you speak of from taboo is for the slave cylnder, not the master. I have tried that already. It did help when the engine is cold but after 10 mins the problem will come back.

3. Step on the clutch all the way down and let it come back up. At this point it should be level with the brake pedal. If not, you should be able to pull it up more with your hand.
If this is the case, I'm pretty sure it's your pedal assembly because you're not getting the full stroke with the master cylnder therefore you're not generating enough pressure in the system.

 

[dsm1kenobe]

i know this may be really dumb to ask, but if i bleed it and it is still the same way, would it be possible to just have the rod from the master replaced with a longer and that would solve the problem. that is what i got from taboo's site. i have an act2100 in it right now and it has less then 10k on it.

Make sure you don't have any play b/w your clutch lever and clutch pedal rod. Get the two welded if you do.

About Taboo...

BUYER BEWARE as he's very good at ignoring emails, and not sending your parts. :thumbdown

 

[stepheng1113]

hey, I had the same problem as you exept my clutch would sometimes feel slushy after a couple minutes.. It wouldnt disengage totally and I was having trouble gettin into gears.. I have a new slave, master and act 2100 clutch installed and I had bled it very good and still the same problem was there.. so I took it to a guy down here and he said I needed to have the pressure plate on the clutch shimmed for some reason.. but instead of doin that he said he modified the clutch fork somehow.. I am not sure what he did but it feels alot better now.. the engagement starts about 1 1/4 inches off the floor now, seeing how I did have to push the clutch pedal practically through the floorboard to get it to go into gear.. keep posted how it goes..

 

[oldman]

About Taboo...

BUYER BEWARE as he's very good at ignoring emails, and not sending your parts. :thumbdown

I second that, they never return my email. I ended up buying the push rod throught dsmparts.com :thumbdown

 

[kamigouki]

where would i be able to get an extended rod for a 2g, dsmparts.com only have one for a 1g, would that work for my car too.