The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

car sounds like airplane, runs like crap!

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

ninety7gst

15+ Year Contributor
101
0
Jul 30, 2003
I think everything that I do to fix my car eventually hurts it.
I finally got my running rich, and boosting problem fixed and now my car is even worse!
now when I try and start it when it's cold i have 2 keep my foot on the gas to keep it running until the coolant is aobut 100 degrees, even then it sounds like an airplane, or a big old chevy pickup that uses oil! glug glug glug. I don't know what to do, i just bought a compression checker and im gonna ccheck my compression soon (whenever i can manage it between school and work) I NEED a car...LOL thanks for checking this out, i hope it makes sense....

btw... my car has a 50 trim turbo, ecu+, 650cc injectors, 255 walbro fuel pump, vented bov, i don't think anything else is important... :(

its also doesn't run right, its very boggish and the glugging gets louder w/ higher rpms...
 
*edit* i couldnt read all of your thread b/c i was using my phone. what are you using as 'ecu'?
 
650's are a bit much aint it? is the oil burning or leaking? yeah that vented BOV has to go. just get a 1G. fix the BOV first and any CEL's if applicable.
 
i justed checked my compression this morning cuz i wasn't feeling good enough to goto school :shhh:

cylinder 1: 160, 2: 130, 3: 150, 4: 140

.75x160=120 so I'm safe there.... :cool:

I have BPR7ES NGK's, I don't think I stated that earlier

and yes I know venting isn't the smartest way to go, and I actually like the GReddy sound better so it's not because I want to be loud or anything, it's just that I bought the car w/ this A'Pexi bov, and the flange won't fit a GReddy or a 1G, i've checked into that a LONG time ago... I have to get all new UPIC piping for that...+ it didn't always act like this... :(

no i don't have an FPR, I was told by many trusted sources NOT to get one if it's only a 255 walbro...and I'm not getting a CEL now because I haven't driven it since my new problem...but I was getting a P0300 (random cylinder misfire) or a P0301 (cylinder 1 misfire) when i was keeping the throttle down when it was cold so it would stay idling...
 
ecu+ is the ecu piggyback, I have the stock '97 ecu though, however ecu+ modifys the crank/cam sensors and mas output, meaning it car mess w/ the air/fuel, retard and advance the timing...also it taps into several sensors and I can read most things a datalogger can...

yes i know vented isn't the best way to go...but why is 650cc not good tuning? 550cc would be cuttin' out at high boost 25+ right? even though i'm not planning on running that, i still wanted the option...and they were only 30$ more, and yeh 130 did seem really low but it's still within the 75% range of the highest compression cylinder so I don't have to frown just yet...the motor isn't even broken in yet so unless someone messed up on putting it together, i don't know why it would have so low compression, unless i didn't crank it over enough times or something... :|
 
650's are fine, i just wanted to know if you had done any tuning. do you have any logs or have you watched your timing at all? what was engine temp when you did comp. test?
 
ninety7gst said:
the motor isn't even broken in yet so unless someone messed up on putting it together, i don't know why it would have so low compression, unless i didn't crank it over enough times or something... :|
Wait, those numbers came from a fresh motor? Ruh roh!!!

Either you didn't do the test right or something is seriously wrong.
 
No FPR.. Number one problem. I am willing to bet you money that the 255 is over running your stock FPR..

650's eh? must have skipped this. What are you using to control those bigger injectors? I don't see any mention of an AFC or any of the sorts in your profile.

Any links to this "ecu+" deal? I'm curious, b/c in all of my reading on tuners and such, I haven't seen anything of the sort..

Since you've had this car.. Name the last 5 mods you've done to the car, from newest to oldest.
 
ArticNemesis said:
No FPR.. Number one problem. I am willing to bet you money that the 255 is over running your stock FPR..

650's eh? must have skipped this. What are you using to control those bigger injectors? I don't see any mention of an AFC or any of the sorts in your profile.

Any links to this "ecu+" deal? I'm curious, b/c in all of my reading on tuners and such, I haven't seen anything of the sort..

Since you've had this car.. Name the last 5 mods you've done to the car, from newest to oldest.

Exactly what I said in post 6. Get a FPR and then sort out any remaining problems. No more posting is even needed. Thats your main problem. Any other remaining probelms will be uncovered after this mod. Your compression isnt that hot though.
 
EclipseTrbo420A said:
133 is service time soo thas tnot good. good luck though

He said the motor hasn't been broken in yet.. It's possible the rings haven't seated.

But yet, it sounds like who ever put the motor together severly screwed up.

[edit]

Then with running a walboro255 with no FPR (still waiting on fuel control answer..) You could have easily washed your rings out from running pig rich..
 
ecu+ is my afc....i said that it controls the mas voltage...thats what alters your fuel managment...its got a ratio precaculated for aftermarket injectors, PLUS a full 50% + or - on top of that...you just type in your stock injector size and the size of injectors you're actually running so it can alter the mas signal correctly...ecu+ is sold ONLY from machv.com and it's fairly new...im probably going to take it out and put in the stock injectors and see if thats part of the problem...i really didn't have a problem until i put the ecu+ in and a new 02 sensor (i was running filthy rich before it) except for me getting fuel cut at about 18-20psi...(which is originally why i bought ecu+) i think i messed up on testing compression because i didn't do WOT when i tested the compression...i'm gonna do it again when i get out of school tomorrow, and the engine was probably about 80-100 degrees, it was left set alone overnight and i started it up for about 2 mins to see if it was still doing what it was doing (which it was) then i turrned it off and checked compression
 
put in the stock injectors, and new insulators...0'd out my ecu+ and now the car doesn't even want to idle, it was idling w/ the new injectors....i know my stock ones are fine, i ran them be4 i upgraded w/ no problem. in any case it'll idle sometimes at probably 200 rpm when im giving it gas, but it WON'T go any higher...sometimes, when i can get it 2 turn over, it'll start up then die right away if i don't have my foot on the gas once it's started...now im trying to figure this one out...i'm gonna check for boost leaks AGAIN!!! I HATE BOOST LEAKS! OMG what do you guys think now?
 
yeh, i've done serveral boost leak tests...over and over and over, i do it basically every time i change something because I forget to screw something in or I don't tighten something enough...this time it was the hose to the fuel pressure solenoid from the FPR... but i plugged it back in and it didn't do jack...the guy that had it before me had a breather hooked up from the valve cover ventilation thing on the left side of the valve cover, i don't know if that's a problem but it always made my other eclipse tick after about 60 miles when I didn't have a hose running back to the intake...and also i can hear air rushing out from there...I hold my finger over it and it stops, then I can hear something around the throttle body, but i don't believe it's the gaskets...

I had a suprise today...sprinkles when i was checking boost leaks...and it got on the fuel rail and i heard crackling when the system was pressurized...so i'm thinking that maybe I have a leak there also...I have a chrysler dealership in town and the nearest mitsubishi dealership is about 20 miles away so I'm just gonna start getting parts from the one in town...LOL hope it works.... :dsm: :talon:

I'm gonna go ahead and order a 1G bov for now, but I need new UPIC and intake piping (of course) because the bov I have on now is a different flange size and there is no recirulation flange on the intake pipe i have now...I would order an injen intake, but I have a 50 trim turbo (3" inlet) then I'd order a dejon tool inlet but I want to be able to hook up my charcoal can and breather up to it if needed...so when i find the pipes i need for my setup i'll hook 'em up and let you know that that did absoultly nothing :dsm: :thumbdown LOL
 
Log your LTFT and post it. Is the car operating in closed loop like normal?

Your trusted sources are dead wrong on the fuel pressure regulator. I doubt that the higher base pressure at idle is causing the problems though.

What does your timing look like while the car is chugging along? Any knock activity...if ecu+ can read that.

Does the car hold a good idle when it is warmed up?
 
95kate said:
650's are a bit much aint it? is the oil burning or leaking? yeah that vented BOV has to go. just get a 1G. fix the BOV first and any CEL's if applicable.

For a 50 trim car running well 650s are anything but much. I max out my 660s at a higher base pressure on pump gas settings. A/F of 11:1.
 
Ugh.


1) The compression, although low in 2 and 3 could be a result of incomplete ring seating depending on the run time on the motor so far and gapping. If this had been a warm motor, those numbers would suck.

2) That compression, as low as it is, won't stop the car from running, or rather idling well.

3) Whoever told you you don't need an aftermarket FPR for the 255 you need to kick in the nuts.

4) If you don't believe me, go get yourself a $20 fuel pressure gauge kit and tell me how much over 43 psi you are running. The lowest I have seen was 50 psi and the high was 65.

5) Are you sure you know how to use the ecu+ thingy? To quote Uncle Ben, with great power comes great responsibility. You have tons of power to adjust shit, and if it don't work because of a tuning issue, there is only one person to blame.

6) If you want to confirm that the Blow Off Valve isn't open at idle, disconnect the vac line to it ( block the vac line). Try to run it at idle but don't drive the damn thing.

7) Before you go wholesale replacing of parts, how about you do some of the basic shit first, like a FPR?
 
Tevenor said:
7) Before you go wholesale replacing of parts, how about you do some of the basic shit first, like a FPR?
A AFPR is like $150 and like you said I don't think that would effect the grand scheme of things "keeping it running wise, it'd just be running rich" I'll probably go ahead and buy that fuel pressure tester and see what it is running. And no my bov isn't opening at idle, I've tested that more than once, I'm gonna take out the ECU+ and see how it runs w/o it. and pale no it doesn't log knock and by LTFT do you mean low throttle fuel trim? i've never heard of that abbreviation be4 LOL...I don't think it logs that either...I have everything 0'd out right now. sorry guys I seem like a dumbass...hell i might be, it's just that I was trusting the wrong people i guess...
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Latest posts

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top