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Car Still Dead. Need Some More Help Please.

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WhiteTsiAwd

15+ Year Contributor
449
4
Nov 13, 2003
Terre Haute, Indiana
Well my car has been dead for about a month now. I was driving normal and it just died on me when it stopped running. I checked timing belt, spark plugs, coil, etc...just about everything i could think of on my own. I just replaced my Camshaft angle sensor and thats not it either.

Does anyone have any ideas? I have thought of my crank angle sensor, but i dont know where its at or if this would be the cause.

Any help is appreciated guys.

Thanks,
Cody
 
You're going to have to be way more specific...
WhiteTsiAwd said:
my car has been dead for about a month now
Doesn't quite cut it. Are you getting spark? What happens when you try to start it? Does it crank at all or just sit there giving you the finger? If it cranks does it try to start and fail? Have you done a compression test? etc...etc... With more info we might be able to point you in the right direction.
 
Definitely need to be a little more specific here - *edit: saw your previous post* (You don't have a crank angle sensor, so don't worry about that.)
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Sorry, im not getting spark. Im getting fuel. Checked my coil and its good. It will crank but not turn over. It wont even act like its going to turn over.

And i always wondered if there was a crank sensor. I got confused by all the debates on here.

If you need any more info let me know.
 
I just had my ECU rebuilt by Steve. I dont think that it is the source of my problems this time. Any more ideas though? I really need some help!
 
check your power transistor..plugs into the coil pack..my car dies awhile back..replaced coilpack and powertransistor...found out it was the crank position sensor
 
I dont think that there is a crank position sensor. I know a camshaft angle sensor but not a crank? Can anyone clear this up for sure? HokieDSM said there isnt but does anyone know for sure?

And ya I was reading in the manual and it said check the transistor so I think im going to find one of those for sale and get it and see what happens.

Any more ideas, anybody?
 
you say you recently replaced the CAS...try flipping it and see if you have it in backwards (odd I know, but completely possible and a more common mistake than anyone here will admit, just search :D )
 
What do you mean backwards? It can only go on one way due to the slots for the bolts.

Im going right now to check the following:
power transistor
MPI Fuse
Open the CAS and look at it
Fuel rail harness
All wires involved in ignition
Do a compression test
And graound wires

Hopefully i can figure something out.
 
Ok well i went a looked at the MPI fuse first and it was shot. So i went and got another one and replaced it. So after like 5 seconds of cranking it tries to fire. Give it a second then do it again and it starts up BUT it sounds like complete A$$! So i adjusted my CAS b/c i just put it on and figured it might be not aligned, well that didnt help. Just made it worse I think.

So now I got a new problem. What would make it run so $h!tty? My only suspiscion(sp?) is it jumped timing. Reason for that being that when it originally died, i was shifting gears. Boost was about 5lbs when i let off the throttle.

So I really dont know. I hope its not the whole timing thing b/c then thats just more money i dont have to spend on it.

Any more help is welcomed!

Thanks,
Cody Inskeep
 
Any codes Cody?

I wonder why your MPI fuse popped to begin with. Something sucked more power than expected. Connected to the MPI fuse is the ECU, MAF, CAS, BSC, ISC, Purge and Fuel Pressure solenoids, Injectors, and O2 heater. I hope your ISC didn't short, that takes out a couple of drivers on the ECU. Your nose is the fastest way to check. Burnt electronics have a distinct smell.

Steve
 
I dont know if there are any codes. Since my MPI fuse blew, what would you suggest might of went wrong Steve? Do you think it could of jumped timing?

There were not any smells as far as I could tell. Def. not any down by my ECU. I still dont understand why my logger wont work. That just drives me crazy because I use it all the time. I am going to try and re-install the program on my Palm and then try again.

Thanks,
Cody
 
Oh also, when I put the new CAS in, is it possible that the little spinny thing that goes inside the head could of gotten turned 180? I mean i know its possible, but would that matter? Because if so then I think that woudl be my problem.
 
Ok well my dad changed it around and it still ran like complete crap. Then it just died again and now it wont start.

Also something else I found out is that when i turn my key on, my boost gauge(stock) just stays at -7. It does not go to 0 like it should. I really dont know, and I dont want to take it to Satin!
 
WhiteTsiAwd said:
Ok well my dad changed it around and it still ran like complete crap. Then it just died again and now it wont start.

Also something else I found out is that when i turn my key on, my boost gauge(stock) just stays at -7. It does not go to 0 like it should. I really dont know, and I dont want to take it to Satin!

Did you pop the fuse again?
Does the CEL light come on for about four seconds before going off when you turn the ignition on?

Here's how the CAS goes in.

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Steve
 

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Thanks for the diagram Steve. How can I tell when the No.1 Cylinder is at TDC?

And if I installed it when it wasnt at TDC then would it run completly crappy?Im assuming so.
 
Theres a nice writeup on adjusting ignition timing via CAS on the VFAQ.com It has to be set at a specfic degree or things will be a little outta faze, I should know when we met up in july my car was 10 degree's off :rolleyes:
 
WhiteTsiAwd said:
Thanks for the diagram Steve. How can I tell when the No.1 Cylinder is at TDC?

And if I installed it when it wasnt at TDC then would it run completly crappy?Im assuming so.

Same way you set the timing after it's installed. You use the timing marks on the front cover and the timing mark on the crank pulley. When the pulley mark lines up with the first mark (right most as your looking over the fender into the engine bay) on the front cover your at TDC. If the engine isn't at TDC the slots in the cam aren't going to match up with the CAS as shown so it won't seat.

Once it's installed you then have to "set" the timing. You not really setting the timing your synch'ing the CAS timing signal to the actual engine position so that when the ECU thinks the engine is at 5 degrees BTDC the engine really is.

Steve
 
First thing in the morning I will go put it at TDC and make sure the CAS is like the picture says its supposed to be. Hopefully that helps!
 
Well I did that and nothing. Still not running. Does anyone think that it might be the Power Transistor? I mean that would be a reason that I am not getting spark wouldnt it? Which would cause my engine not to run. And if it was bad then would my MPI fuse blow multiple times?
 
WhiteTsiAwd said:
Does anyone think that it might be the Power Transistor? I mean that would be a reason that I am not getting spark wouldnt it? And if it was bad then would my MPI fuse blow multiple times?
Sure a bad PTM would cause a no spark condition but it's not the reason the MPI fuse blows. The PTM and Ignition Coil are powered from the ignition switch and the 30A ignition fuse on the battery not the 20A MPI fuse. The things connected to the MPI fuse are the MPI Relay, ECU, MAF, CAS, BSC, ISC, EGR, Purge and Fuel Pressure solenoids, Injectors, and O2 heater. One of these or their wiring is causing the fuse to blow.

How many times have you blown the MPI Fuse?

The boost gauge and Check Engine Light get power from the footwell 10A fuse 11.
The ECU backup power comes from the footwell 10A fuse 19.

When you turn the ignition on the MPI relay should click, the CEL should light for a few seconds and the boost gauge should go to zero and you should be able to connect with your datalogger.

Steve
 
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