95EclipseGST
20+ Year Contributor
- 406
- 1
- Mar 1, 2002
-
Kansas City,
Missouri
Okay just put in this 6 bolt and finally got it to start.
It idles too high for one and i loosened where the cable meets the spring loaded thing all the way.It still idles too high.
If i loosen the nut to the CAS and pivot to change timing +- 5 degrees, does the car have to be off? or can i leave it running and find a sweet spot?
The damn thing overheats within minutes.System not pressurized...Could this be a faulty radiator cap causing this?
If i have a complete 1g engine and head...I was under the impression that i didnt have to do the injector swap or the coil wire swap.I ended up having to do both to even get it to start.I was going off of magnus and it seemed if you have a complete 1g engine you didnt need to do that.They just gave a wiring diagram.Anyway i did roadrace method so far but didnt change the pins in the ecu.I have to do that ALONG WITH changing injector trigger and coil swap??? I thought all that was for a 1g bottom with a 2g head. Please someone clarify this.
Last but not least i had the power steering all the way removed and filled it back up...Well when i started the car i didnt notice anything ...But when i turned teh wheel back and forth...It foamed out the ass and came out the sealed top.What caused this.Was it just getting air out and now its fine?
I cant tell if these poly motor mounts are this rough...Or if the engine is still running rough. i dont think its normal.It idles like shit.
Any suggestions on what to do next? What does the TPS do? Would that cause bad idle?If a TPS is off, what are the symptoms?
Thank you for ANY help you guys can throw my way. And if you live in Georgia i will pay your ass to come and help me get this thing running right.
It idles too high for one and i loosened where the cable meets the spring loaded thing all the way.It still idles too high.
If i loosen the nut to the CAS and pivot to change timing +- 5 degrees, does the car have to be off? or can i leave it running and find a sweet spot?
The damn thing overheats within minutes.System not pressurized...Could this be a faulty radiator cap causing this?
If i have a complete 1g engine and head...I was under the impression that i didnt have to do the injector swap or the coil wire swap.I ended up having to do both to even get it to start.I was going off of magnus and it seemed if you have a complete 1g engine you didnt need to do that.They just gave a wiring diagram.Anyway i did roadrace method so far but didnt change the pins in the ecu.I have to do that ALONG WITH changing injector trigger and coil swap??? I thought all that was for a 1g bottom with a 2g head. Please someone clarify this.
Last but not least i had the power steering all the way removed and filled it back up...Well when i started the car i didnt notice anything ...But when i turned teh wheel back and forth...It foamed out the ass and came out the sealed top.What caused this.Was it just getting air out and now its fine?
I cant tell if these poly motor mounts are this rough...Or if the engine is still running rough. i dont think its normal.It idles like shit.
Any suggestions on what to do next? What does the TPS do? Would that cause bad idle?If a TPS is off, what are the symptoms?
Thank you for ANY help you guys can throw my way. And if you live in Georgia i will pay your ass to come and help me get this thing running right.