The worst F%&$ing thing happened when i started my new 6bolt.Help;(

[95EclipseGST]

I have been working on this new 6bolt forever now trying to do everything right and go to spin the starter with the MPI fuse pulled to get things lubed and that went fine.Then i go to start it for the first time. It was turning over for about 5 seconds and then i let it sit to get fuel up in the rails.Anyway i go to start it again for about 5 seconds then it sounded rough so i immediately stopped. There was no clunk or loud noise cause i was just cranking it.Well the timing belt was loose as shit after i checked and rechecked the stupid thing for tension and proper gap with the tensioner etc. I think it jumped a tooth but not sure.It still lined up at the cams at a certain point but if you turned out the slack,then they werent aligned...So i dont know.I have done a timing belt before so i know i did it right...Except REPLACE the hydraulic tensioner!It was perfectly in spec after i rotated it 6 times and all that.Balance shaft removal done too.Anyway I spent a fortune on this 6bolt built engine 5 angle valve job all that SH&%. Well seeing how i wasnt driving it or the car wasnt even running when this happened. How bad do you think my damage is?
Will i need to pull the whole engine again?Please tell me no...
Should i just go buy a hydraulic tensioner and redo timing belt job and try to restart?
The engine just sounded rough for a split second.What do you think i broke if anything.
What are the first things i should check? "of course get a new tensioner"
Do i need to pull the head all the way off?
Please give me help on what to do and where to go from here.Please ,Pullease help.I am seriously emotionally fuc$ed right now.

 

[BISHILVR]

first thing is go and get a good tensioner......then reinstall it and re-time the cams/crank and see if it will run, if it was only off by one tooth it may have survived ok, i've seen/heard of one tooth not hurting anything....in any case if there is any damage it is already done and it won't hurt to replace the tensioner and try to run it before tearing anything down, and no even if your cam timing is off enough to bend the valves it's highly unlikely that any damage was ever done to the pistons, so no having to pull the engine back out or anything....basically worst case is bent valves that will have to be replaced, and possibly valve guides of the bent valves, but even then you should'nt have to mess with re-doing the five angle valve job since the valve seats is where all of the work/money is at and i've never seen any seats damaged by bent valves in the 4g63.....(i'm sure it has happened, though highly unlikely)............

 

[realhp=turbo]

Im thinking that if it only happened for a moment and you shut it off immeatiatly. That it was the oil pump just getting presure up to the top of the head. But then again, you need to do a compression test first. Well, after you get the timing belt on appropriatly. BTW, did you tighten the cam pivit tensioner, on the tensioner pully itself? I didnt get that at first and I jumped a tooth too. Wasnt really enough to damage anything, but, I think it did bend the valves, if just a little bit. Cause when I did the compession test afterwards I got like, 145, 130, 140, and 142. Its sucks but Im poor. Or id have that damn thing out already. Try those Im rambling...

 

[scottr126]

I Just recently installed a 6 bolt into my 97 gst, I did all the work myself and i took me a total of about 5 minutes of straight cranking to get it running. I was freakin out because it sounded HORRIBLE I was about to go inside and find a new bottom end because I thought I ####ed somethin up. But then it started up and has ran great since. So I dunno, i wouldnt be too worried about a lil bit of sound like what happend to yours especially if u were smart and stopped right away, but I dunno bout the timing belt problem.

 

[zerok318]

about that timing belt slack, i thought it was normal, because every few rotations it'll be tight, then sometimes it'll be some slack befween the cam gears. correct me if im wrong

 

[95EclipseGST]

Im getting a new tensioner today.When i put it all together i didnt use a special tool that pushes on the arm.I use 90 degree needle nose pliers though and had everything within spec.How long since ive done this before,do you think it will take me to just put a new tensioner in there? I had the engine out last time,so i cant tell.I have to take off the engine mount and ALL of the belts to even get to this?Or can i get by with removing most of the lower timing belt cover and trying to slip a tensioner in there.I dont think this would have ever happened if i would just have let the tensioner all the way out and then make the belt tight from there.Dont some people do that?I guess i will just tighten the SH7T out of it all when i get the new tensioner.Do you guys think this will take more than 4 hours to do? Also "realhp=turbo" what part is that "the cam pivit tensioner, on the tensioner pully itself?" There are 2 bolts and a rod and thats it, right? On the tensioner? Please explain.If i get everything back together and everything and it cycles fine when i rotate it 6 turns...Does that mean i didnt bend valves? or there still could be damage?

 

[spydertorbo97]

dsm timing tensioners tighten goin in one direction if you turn the motor the wrong way(counterclockwise)the belt will skip and u will bend valves. happened to me

 

[realhp=turbo]

Doing the timing belt job is alot easier if you dont try to cut corners as far as what you take off. To do this properly you have to remove;
lower outer plastic shroud,
support the motor (floor jack)
take the motor mount out
pull off all belts and remove A/C pump idler
remove outer crankshaft pully
take off both upper and lower timing belt covers
And now you have access to every thing you need to do, and it all comes off somewhat quik. And fortunately, it all goes back together resonably quickly aswell. The cam pivot is the second way to tighten the pulley's tension. If you were to pull the belt off and try to put a new one back on, it wouldnt go unless you loosened the bolt on the tensioner pulley. If you do that you have to tighten it back up thats were it gets tricky. You need to have a special tool. Have you ever seen on boats how some gas lids are flat with two little holes on the top that you have to use a special key to open it? Its like that. If you have a chiltons read, read, read! Go through the whole proceedure in your head first so there are no suprises. good luck

 

[95EclipseGST]

I did the new hydraulic tensioner last night and it worked.timing belt seems to be right at a good tension. The biggest problem now is the car overheats within 30 seconds of turning it on.Smoke comes out from the exhaust manifold area right away.When i go to squeeze the upper radiator hose...I can squueze it in like it doesnt have pressure.I replaced the radiator cap and there are no leaks.The water pump only has 1200 miles on it and the pulley on the water pump is spinning so its pumping right? If i hooked up one of the sensors wrong on the radiator cap elbow would it do this? There are extra clip connectors on there that werent on my 2g engine.I just hooked one up from where it was on the 2g but there are 2 other sonsor clips on there.Someone help.I have to get this thing running.

 

[BISHILVR]

a little smoke from the manifold is normal after a rebuild.....what makes you think it's overheating???.......if you have doubts, remove the thermostat and the put it back together, fill with coolant and try that.......

 

[95EclipseGST]

I think its overheating cause you can squeeze the hose all the way as if no coolant is coming through there and smoke comes from the manifold.If i could feel that the hose was hard to squeeze then i wouldnt think this.Is there such thing as a thermostat blocking flow? Also if you see the water pump pulley spinning and its not leaking then, it IS working right? It has to be...I am pretty sure that i have all the coolant lines etc all in perfect order so i am stumped.Would i have to drain the coolant completely to take off the thermostat? Help im going crazy. The only other thing i can think of is all the extra plugs that are on the 1g radiator cap neck area need to be plugged somewhere.here are those extra sensor things below the radiator cap.

 

[BISHILVR]

those sensors are there for the ecu to know the temp of the coolant so it can adjust engine controls accordingly, and to turn the fans on at a certain temp......there is also one in there for the stock temp gauge, you should just use the stock 2g sensors in those holes and plug them in if you have'nt already done it.......as for the hose pressure you have it backwards.....the only time there is pressure in the hose is when it has pressure built up from HEAT. otherwise it should just collapse when you squeeze it......and yes you have to drain the coolant to replace the t-stat......try starting the car with the cap off for the coolant and see if it looks to be boiling over or not.....trust me here you'll know what boiling coolant looks like (spraying from the filler neck)........

 

[95EclipseGST]

I tried pulling the radiator cap off and starting it. Looking down into the neck of it there you should see coolant flowing by right? Coolant was not flowing whatsoever.shouldnt i see it flowing once the car is started? It started smoking from the ex manifold again so shut it off.I dont want to hurt this engine.So shouldnt i see flow with the cap off? Any suggestions? The pulleys are turning teh water pump so i dont get it. Later on today i will try and pull out the thermostat.Could that block the flow whatsoever if it was bad?

 

[realhp=turbo]

Chances are that if you did replace the thermostat when you did the motor, you put it in up-side-down. But if it was a used one then yes it will cause you to over heat. Take it completely out for a test . And try that same proceedure. (watching it with out the cap) Are you sure that you even have any coolant in the engine? When my lower rad hose popped off (my fault) it took seconds for the motor to over heat. Good luck1