No power @ WOT

[VerbalKint]

Bit of background 1st.

Changed the plugs and plug wires a little over a month ago.
Car has a minor idle surge problem.

Other than that, everything as been running good up to date.

In fact, everything ran fine this weekend.

This morning, however....

I got in the car, and she started up like always, on the 1st hit.
Idle'd ok (800 - 1200RPM range). Once she warmed up a bit, idle settled out.
Disengaged the e-brake, let off the clutch.. Off to work we go.

Ran just fine for about 30 seconds.

Now. she still starts and stays running (but idles around 500 RPM, smells extremely rich)
but when I give her gas, she hesitates. I can go WOT sitting still, with the car in neutral, and nothing... No change in RPM's.. Inside of car smells like it's being soaked in gas.

I let off the gas, and the idle will heistate for a second, and all returns to normal.

If i play with the gas pedal, around 1/2 way down, working it in and out, she will rev up, but as soon as I lef off the clutch, back to 500 ish RPM's, Rich smell, and no real power.

However, in gear, if I do not touch the gas, she bucks for a minute, while trying to accelerate to idle speed. If i gently play with the gas pedal, i can get some speed out of her, but not much.


Any suggestions?

Standard, NT Engine, FWD 1991 Eagle Talon.


Many Thanks

Dave

 

[philipkrotch]

make sure you didnt blow any gas lines off. if all are there and intact, id look towards the fuel injector firing solenoids on the ECU. its a common 1g ECU problem other than the capacitors going bad. if u have anyone else with a 91-94 ecu NT, id try swapping it out and see if it fixes ur problem. other problem could be the cam angle sensor too, but not likely.

 

[VerbalKint]

I can pretty much rule out having blown a gas line off, unless it would NOT leak fuel.

There were no wet areas on the road area in my residential area, where I managed to circle the car to get it back to its parking place.

Are the fuel injector firing solenoids anything that can be checked with a multimeter, or is this something i'd need to take to a shop to get looked at?


Thanks


Dave

 

[philipkrotch]

actualy, u can just pull the ecu out and look at it. ill try and explain. if u pull the cover off the ecu, u will see in the corner, 4 green boxes. they will be in a set of 2 and another set of 2, and inbetween the 2 sets u will see 4 blue solenoids. if they are going bad, the insulators (or whatever u want to call them) will be a brownish color, also look on the underside of the motherboard directly under those solenoids and see if there is any sign of something being brunt, or the motherboard being a brownish color instead of green. if not, check the capacitors. look under each one and see if theyre leaking. that could also be ur problem. the things circled are the capacitors that goo bad. if u look in the top left corner, u will see the 2 sets of green boxes with the 4 blue things in between them....those are the fuel injector firing solenoids.

 

[VerbalKint]

I personally do not know anyone in my area with a 1g NT DSM.. Hell, I don't really know anyone with a DSM At all, in this area.. Though, I do know there are a few.


If the ECU is bad, what are my options?

I assume one could be picked up from a Junk yard from a matching car (1g NT).
About how much could I expect to pay, if this is in fact what I need.??


Many Thanks


Dave

 

[1.8laser90]

id also look on ebay they have acouple on there that are in good working order, and some that are rebiult. hope this helps Cory

 

[philipkrotch]

if its the capacitors, you can get them on ebay for like 4 bucks, and just solder them in, or have someone else do it, but make sure you clean the shit off the motherboard with a q-tip and acetone.

 

[VerbalKint]

If its the capacitors, I am fairly sure I could replace those with no problem.

There are a ton of electronics parts stores around here where I could get the caps at.

**crosses fingers**

I'll be home in 3 1/2 hours, so I can get started on it then.

I'll let ya know if that's the problem, and if I can get it fixed.

As far as getting one from Ebay... Does it have to be a 91 ECU, or will a 90-94 work, as long as its for a FWD NT??

Thanks


Dave

 

[philipkrotch]

no..the 90's are different. i kno theyre different in the turbo model, but im sure its the same with a NT

 

[VerbalKint]

Pulled the ECM out..

The ONLY place on it that I see anything that looks bad is in the picture below.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

I am going to clean this off and replace the cap this evening / tomorrow.

*crosses fingers*

Does that look bad enough to cause the problems that I am having?


Many Thanks

Dave

 

[92awddsm]

yes, that will cause your problems. Check the copper traces closely(magnifying glass if you can) and make sure none of them are corroded. If so, that needs to be repaired. Good luck

 

[philipkrotch]

ya, ur caps leaked EVERYWHERE. take a q- tip and acetone and clean all the shit off ASAP. then replace the caps.

 

[VerbalKint]

Question about the Cap in question.

The diagram shows a 100uF, 16v cap.

How important is it that it be 16v?
The only cap's I can find are 100uF / 50v, and 100uF / 35v.


Thanks

Dave

 

[philipkrotch]

its very important..just get them off ebay, they are direct replacements. its liek 4 buck shipped for them.