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ACT 2600 slips? WTF

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luv2eclipse

20+ Year Contributor
392
1
Oct 28, 2002
Dickinson, North Dakota
I put an act 2600 in my 91 talon tsi awd friday night. saturday the car runs just fine, clutch is strong. all of a sudden come late saturday night it started slipping at full boost. There is no oil on the pressure plate and the pressure plate is tightened to all hell. we didn't bleed the slave cylinder until after a few test runs. also i didn't adjust the pedal until after a few test runs also. The clutch held strong for like 2 hours then all of a sudden started slipping. the pressure plate isn't worn out already is it?
 
I forgot, I only launched it twice, after driving it around for a bit on low boost. But on last launch we heard a clunk from the back. the clutch started slipping then. The next day on my way home last night the rear pass axle was broke. we replaced the front pass when we put in the clutch. would that rear axle make it seem like it's slipping since it was screwed up?
 
I would get underneath the rear of the vehicle and check for things there first since that is where you heard the noise come from. May have blown the rear end if its the 3 bolt, broken axle could very well make the car drive bad if its broke that bad. Check the drive line and transfer case for anything obvious.

And remember a clutch needs to be broken in just like everything else. Probably not a very good idea to be doing launches that break axles right after installing it.
 
I know it wasn't a good idea to launch it. The boost is turned down. But with that axle being snapped would that make that affect on the Viscious coupling? Would it make it feel like a slipping clutch?
 
Originally posted by luv2eclipse
I know it wasn't a good idea to launch it. The boost is turned down. But with that axle being snapped would that make that affect on the Viscious coupling? Would it make it feel like a slipping clutch?

Yes, but from experience, it would take much less than full boost to make it slip. It's an open differential in the front, so any wheel free to spin will spin.
 
Its the axle.....Unless you broke something more major too.


Your mistakes so far
#1 Do not drop the clutch on an AWD car...period!!!! unless you don't mind breaking things.
#2 break in time on the clutck does not include launches.


Learn to FEATHER the clutch for a good launch....Dropping it just breaks things.
 
When I launch it I don't dump it, I let it slip for like half a second. And uhhhh I'm already aware that I didn't break it in, but that just means it's gonna wear out faster. I'm not worried about that.
 
Originally posted by crankbender
Actually it means you might glaze the surface before it gets worked in and will never grab correctly...

... causing it to slip like you said it is.
 
Originally posted by crankbender
Actually it means you might glaze the surface before it gets worked in and will never grab correctly...

I heard a good break in period is 400-500 miles with varying RPM's and a few pulls around 200 miles. Is that accurate?
 
no pulls...period.

Just lots and lots of shifts with out going WOT. On every shift you will slide the clutch a little because of the engine inertia (even if you work it like a motorcycle and never touch the clutch).
 
T-case maybe? Input shaft? Center diff? Clutch?

You would really need to inspect further to tell what it is.
 
Originally posted by dthquazi1
yes, the plate is what makes contact with the flywheel and is what gets glazed.

You mean yes I should because the DISC is what makes contact with the flywheel and gets glazed??? The pressure plate doesn't make contact with the flywheel.
 
yes the disk glazes not the PP. However once the disk glazes and starts slipping it will cause heat warpage (even if you can't see it) on the flywheel and PP.
 
I was told by a friend who's a mechanic that I should break it in for about 200 miles. During which I can go WOT as long as I shift slow. What's your opinion on that. From experience as well as from what you've read/heard.
 
It is kinda a self killing statement....

Shifting slow (this has more to do with syncros and not the clutch)
Feathering...done to avoid massive torque throughput.
not going WOT....same as feathering.

Why do one and not the other....and how fast you move the shifter when the clutch is in has nothing to do with the clutch.
 
Originally posted by crankbender
It is kinda a self killing statement....

Shifting slow (this has more to do with syncros and not the clutch)
Feathering...done to avoid massive torque throughput.
not going WOT....same as feathering.

Why do one and not the other....and how fast you move the shifter when the clutch is in has nothing to do with the clutch.

I should have been more specific, sorry. What I mean by shifting slow is, make sure that you are completely off the throttle both when you disengage and/or engage the clutch. As long as I don't launch it and shift this way for the first 200 miles or so shouldn't I be safe?
 
Originally posted by luv2eclipse
I am not pulling the tranny out again, LOL. That was a PITA

Sadly, that may be your only option. I know how much of an ass it is to get out, but you may have to do it before you break something else.

Procrastination = Broken parts & more money.
 
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