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spun a bearing need help

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sneakygs

Probationary Member
6
0
Mar 21, 2004
Miami, Florida
hi, my names will and i have a 1991 eclipse non turbo that i converted to a turbocharged car about 2 years ago, car moves pretty good just cant hold trannys together. anyway thats not the problem now, the new problem is that about 2 days ago i spun a bearing on my 125thousand mile motor and i since i need to replace the spun bearings anyway i figure i might as well just replace them all while im there. only thing is, i dont know if the bearings are a unveral type thing or if they are fit to match. someone told me that they are color coded. never heard about it but i figure i would ask you guys since you are the authority on all things dsm. hope someone can help me out, its only been 2 days and i miss driving it already. thanks for the help....
 
this is not extreme.

get oem bearings. thatll take all your confusion out of it.
 
most of the time when a bearing goes the crank gets fuxxored too...so get the crank checked out and possible reground and oversized bearings
 
Make sure to have the crank magnafluxed. Every dsm crank I have ever seen with a spun rod bearing usually cracked the crank. You will also need to have the rod reconditioned and have the crank turned(reground). The entire engine needs to be pulled apart and all the oil galleys cleand to remove the metal shavings. Without doing all these things, You will end up having more bearing problems or even worse. If you change one bearing, change them all. If one spun, and it wasnt from mechanical failure, It was from wear or low oil pressure and the rest of the bearings are probably close to doing the same as that one.
 
Thanks alot for the help guys. I replaced the bearings and i had the crank turned, however this has not seemed to help anything at all. I removed my valve cover to see if there was possibly a rocker arm that had broken or popped off of a lifter. Everything seems to look ok except for an exhaust lifter on the number 4 cylinder. It looks like its stuck in the extended position and when i turn the engine by hand it doesnt move with the rocker arm. Does this mean that I have a valve that is stuck open? Also the engine has a really nasty missfire. I got the whole engine to run perfect for about 20 seconds after i pulled the plugs and cleaned them up. As soon as i put a load on it is started knocking again. Now Im really confused. Any ideas?
 
Do you still have balance shafts? Ive seen or heard them make a lot of noise when the bearings go and alot of the time, they stay pretty quiet at idle, make a little noise when free reved, and turn to an all out knock under load.
 
I have already replaced the bearings and Im sure that they were installed correctly. Im not sure what you are trying to get at with the whole balance shaft idea. The balance shafts arent going to make noise unless something is wrong with them right? Is there an easy way to find out if something is wrong with them. I dont see how the balance shafts could cause a missfire either. Anybody think they might know what the reason for my knocking sound might be?
 
if you have a valve stuck in "open" or "extended" position, then you are the winner of a bent valve dude......that would explain the missfire and the rough running, the only way to ever get it to run right again is to pull the head and repair the valve damage...:dsm:
 
That sucks, I guess i know what Im doing tomorrow. I just need to fix the car so that it will run again and then I think I will be in the market for a 1g awd. I was wondering with the compression on my 1g non turbo 4g63 engine being obviously higher than the turbo engine what is the highest boost level anyone thinks I can run safely. I would like to avoid having to replace more bearings or rods or anything else that might be damaged by much higher boost than the engine is apable of handling (my mods on my profile)thanks for any info anyone can give me.
 
Are you talking about detonation "knock" or bearing knock? If you have bearing knock, It could be a balance shaft or it could be the rod bearing again if you did not have the connecting rod reconditioned. If it is rod bearing again, it probably came completely out and allowed the piston to travel high enough in the cylinder for the piston to make contact with the exhaust valves as it is chasing them up.
 
Its rod knock for sure. Damn shame the only car I have ever heard knock like that before is mine.
 
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