93 Tsi AWD starting, not starting Electrical Sh!t $@#$%@^%$@

[TurboMeTroy]

Okay---I tried calling and left a message on Nate's phone tonight because he is the best person I could think of for the job. Here is the deal---------

My car pretty much has everything it needs to be as fast as I wanted it to be---except for exhaust, which I did the past 2 days (3in Mandrel)---anyway...

Last time I drove the car it ran fine. I parked it in the garage, took the stock exhaust off---put the new 3in mandrel bent I made on it, and when I went to start it to see how sweet it sounded, it would do anything.

I jumped it w/ a booster pack, and it ran---klnd of lumpy, but ran. Thought nothing of it. Made it to the end of the driveway and it died. I pushed it back in the garage and plugged in the battery charger and started the car...it ran fine off the battery charger----so as you take the battery charger off, it'll run for about a minute then die...if at this time, I removed the neg. battery terminal, it died instantly. Making me think it was the alternator---however the alternator is brand new, AND the battery in the car reads 12v when the car is completely off. So wouldnt it atleast run until the battery in the car died?

TWO things to note:

1)When I took off the old exhaust, there was a braided ground that I did not reconnect anywhere on the newer exhaust? Some type of ground?

2)There is a slight oil leak, that happens to drip right on top of the alternator---and so if it IS the alternator, why wouldnt it run off the battery if its fully charged??

Am I overlooking something terribly simple??????? I dont have much money, but I'll have my g/f make someone cookies for helping!!

This is SOOOOO madning...I JUST got the car, and JUST got the exhaust on it.

Thank you!!!

Email me: [email protected]

 

[luv2rallye]

Sounds like the alternator to me. The car cannot run on just the battery. And batteries with no load on them (car off) will always read 12 volts - that's not an indicator of a good/bad battery. Check voltage at battery when running above idle - it should be 13-15 volts if your alternator is working - also headlights should brighten slightly when reved above idle (due to >12 volts from alternator).

I'll take chocalate chip please.

 

[luv2rallye]

Also you need the braided ground on the exhaust - it's the ground for the O2 sensor.

Make that double choc chip. :laugh:

 

[BUCK]

& BTW - that Oil or P/S Fluid leak on your Alt can take out your Voltage Regulator & then take out your ECU via too high voltage.

 

[TurboMeTroy]

Thanks for the input so far----

I don't think all batteries will read 12v w/ no load, will they?...I"ve seen some pretty low batteries.

The alternator is new though---->

Well, Im going to go try a diff. battery first, just because I have about 5 good ones. Then, I'll take the alternator out and have that f$%#@r tested.

I wasn't joking about the cookies----(if this works of course--I can't just be giving away cookies...)

But anyway, thanks again for using the forum for its orginal purpose, and not polluting it like some people.

Troy

 

[johnh]

try to ground that O2 sensor first. if that doesnt work, take it down to your local Kragen, Schucks, Checker, etc. and they will be able to test it on the car. I work at the local Kragen and we test batteries and alternators in the car for free. We will also charge them free of charge as well. Good luck.

 

[TurboMeTroy]

The car runs----took the alternator out and had it tested...works fine. Changed battery, still didnt run. Just when I was about to give up, I checked the fusable link---it wasn't blown, but I took it out anyway, and sanded the connections, hooked it back up----Poof, RUNS.

I welded all the exhaust, without disconnecting the battery, don't know if that's related at all or if total coincidence, but she runs...and runs very, very well.

Thanks for input,

Troy