I Need Help with a noise, ( not dsm tick )

[Ryan james]

I am new here and new to the dsm world. I just bought a 1998 Eagle talon awd tsi. Two weeks ago I got on it and it hit fuel cut, right after that it developed a loud tick, kind of like a sewing machine. I read several threads about noise, and I learned about the famous dsm tick that is caused by the lash adjusters. so I replaced them with topline revised 3g lifters. The noise is still there, it almost sounds like it is coming from the timing belt area. I changed the oil and filter twice, there is no shavings in the oil what so ever. Can anyone give me some other ideas?

 

[mattp_65]

What type of oil are you using? Also also make sure your timing belt is not falling apart and hitting the timing covers

 

[Ryan james]

I am using 10/30 castrol syntec. I took the top of the timing belt cover off and the belt looks fine.

 

[RvlutionMtrsprt]

Unless you cut open the oil filter to check for debris you can't be sure there is nothing there. Listen to the motor with a scope at the head and at the oil pan to pinpoint the noise you're hearing. Could very easily be rod knock. If you're hitting fuel cut, the car is also more than likely knocking while in boost. Since you just bought the car you've probably got to assume the car has been driven like this for quite some time. Good luck with it.

 

[Ryan james]

I used an battery powered stethescope yesterday, and the noise is louder above the crank, I went under the car and put it on the oil pan and the tick noise isn't as loud as it is from on top, it is really loud just under the cam gears when I put the scope right in front of the timing belt cover.

 

[RvlutionMtrsprt]

Sounds like it's time to pull the timing cover off and do some inspecting under there.

 

[dsmspickdad]

Pull the pan and check that bottom end while removing the timing cover. Rod knock?

 

[RadDsm]

Is it coming from the balance shaft bearing?

 

[Ryan james]

If it is a balance shaft bearing, is it best to just eliminate them, and if so will I have to remove the engine?

 

[RvlutionMtrsprt]

I find it easier to pull the motor out for the bse install.

 

[Ryan james]

I have bad new's. The motor went boom... Well I guess i will be doing the 6 bolt swap sooner then I wanted.

 

[RvlutionMtrsprt]

I have a freshly built 6 bolt, ready to drop in if you're interested.

 

[Ryan james]

I have never done a 6 bolt swap I was just wondering how difficult it is, mine is an auto also. And I was just curious about how much your 6 bolt will go for?

 

[RvlutionMtrsprt]

The mount on the drivers side is already modified for the 6 bolt swap and I have the adapter harness so you don't have to do any wiring. It's an easy swap. The block is a bare rotating assembly right now. It's built with a stock crank (just micropolished, NOT turned), Ross 8.5:1 pistons .020" over, Eagle rods, ARP main and rod bolts. $1700 for the rotating assembly. I also have all new OEM front case, oil pump, water pump, timing belt and components, ARP head studs, freshly built cylinder head (needs cams and valve springs, those were sold). So, $1700 and up depending on how complete you want it. It's no problem that you have an automatic. You can still mount your flex plate, torque converter and transmission. Feel free to call me if you have any questions.
Jesse
541-337-4792

 

[Ryan james]

That sounds like an awesome motor Jesse, but its almost christmas and 3 kids, cant afford that. It is my daily driver right now so I don't have a lot of time for many upgrades. I have a friend that knows a guy that has a 7 bolt that was running when they took it out for a 6 bolt swap, he wants 300 for it. I was thinking of just getting better rods for it but not sure if stock wrist pins will work. Or is putting money into a 7 bolt a waist of money?

 

[RvlutionMtrsprt]

A 7 bolt can be built just like a 6 bolt, later models being the best to build.

 

[Ryan james]

do you have any suggestions on what I can do with the 7 bolt that I am getting? I only have about 1 grand to spend right now? I really need some help right now. I don't want to put money into things that I don't need. I was thinking obviously new rod and main bearings and the normal stuff, but beyond that I would love your advice. thank you

 

[RvlutionMtrsprt]

My best advice is to be extremely cautious with used motors. I paid good money for a jdm 6 bolt motor, plus balance shaft delete, new water pump and timing components, bought it from one of the most reputable dsm shops in the country and it didn't last 500 miles. I thought I was doing the right thing, buying from the right shop, doing the proper maintenance, but in the end I was out $1500 plus my time/labor.
Doing bearing work requires complete disassembly of the motor, clearancing, reassembly... That all ads up fast and you can go over budget quickly. In the end, you might have a situation like mine, where you could have almost bought/built a new motor, but didn't and wish you had.

 

[Ryan james]

I have not gotten the 7 bolt used short block yet but I will in a few days.I am thinking about replacing the pistons with new stock ones and buying eagle esp h beam rods but Im not sure if they will fit with stock wrist pins. Does anybody know if the stock wrist pins will work?

 

[RvlutionMtrsprt]

Yes they work. If you buy the block and replace the pistons and rods you are going to spend the same amount you would on my block, or damn close.

 

[Ryan james]

I am going to all the work myself. I am mechanically inclined, I dont know if that is a good or bad thing.

 

[RvlutionMtrsprt]

It's a good thing that you're going to do all the work yourself. Still, lets add it up...
What is the block gonna cost you, $200-300?
Tearing it down, free...
New OEM pistons/Eagle rods, ~$500
New rod and main bearings, ~$100
Machine shop fees will run $300-500 for the bore/hone, balancing, clearances, ring gaps, polishing crank, magnaflux (to be on the safe side with crank), a couple trips to the hot tank, etc... It all adds up pretty quick.
Are you going to do the engine assembly yourself? It'll save you a couple hundred dollars. If not, you're just about to $1700 but it'll have stock pistons and not forged Ross' or ARP mains which add about $200 for the studs and line bore. The Ross/Eagle setup was $2100 assembled when all was said and done.

Either way you go, I hope it works out well for you. Any questions on your build feel free to ask.

 

[Ryan james]

I am sure I will ask you questions. And thank you for the help, I wish I had the money to buy your motor but I don't. This is gonna be a learning process for me also.