I purge, but why buy a kit?

[chevota]

Purging makes a big difference for me, but why buy an expensive kit? I purge into the motor by simply activating the existing nitrous solenoid (but not fuel) . Other than for showing a plume, why pay the $$$?

 

[mavisky]

Purging makes a big difference for me, but why buy an expensive kit? I purge into the motor by simply activating the existing nitrous solenoid (but not fuel) . Other than for showing a plume, why pay the $$$?

Because for that short moment you purge into the motor without purging the fuel at the same time you're forcing the motor to run lean for that time period. Purging to the atmosphere keeps that from happening.

 

[rys]

Purging makes a big difference for me, but why buy an expensive kit? I purge into the motor by simply activating the existing nitrous solenoid (but not fuel) . Other than for showing a plume, why pay the $$$?

http://www.speedshop.org/store/scripts/prodView.asp?idproduct=24

Not that expensive. (This is also the purge kit that I run on my setup - Yes the purge tubing is plastic, but I'm not concerned if it cracks, it's $5 for 20 feet at Home Depot and it's meant to release the pressure into the atmosphere anyways...)

-Brian

 

[peanotation]

you can use brakeline (which is metal, duh) to use as your purge "exhaust". $9 at pepboys for 6 feet worth. purging into the engine though...i dont know if i'd ever do that.

 

[rys]

That's a good idea peanotion. Actually, I was contemplating running a hard line from front of the car to the back, and using the steel braided teflon to connect that to the solenoid and bottle. (The teflon line degrades over time, but the hard line, not so much). Installing a hardline would reduce the need for replacement and the possibility of leaks.

-Brian

 

[chevota]

You need to buy another solenoid right? That's what I was talking about. Seems like a waste since you already have one there. Plus more potential leak points and double the chance of solenoid failure.

mavisky:
It's just for a second, I don't see how it could hurt. Plus, technically, it should be a more effective prep since you'll have liquid right into the real solenoid vs the purge solenoid right?

I dunno, that's the way I see it. I'm new to this stuff so help me out if I missed something here. Another thing I can't understand is why they don't make a regulator? Variable pressure is really screwing me up. Sheeze, do I gotta make one myself? Has it been tried?

Thanks....

 

[rys]

A lean condition for a split second in a high shot application can cause enough detonation that, when the fuel does spray, it'll backfire and blow your intake manifold right off the car. (Usually bends valves and destroys sensors too).

If you are concerned about wasting that little bit of nitrous and not getting it to the solenoid, you can always go with an NX Hitman solenoid, where there's a port for the purge solenoid right on the nitrous solenoid itself.

As for regulators, people just don't build systems like that, but there's no reason it can't be done.

I think it's been cheaper to increase the pressure up to above what it would need to be, by heating the bottle. (above 900psi). It's a good idea anyways as the liquid to gas conversion that takes place inside the bottle will drop the bottle temperature (and conversely the bottle pressure), so the heater will insure both consistency and pressure.

To be honest, the purge helps with consistency, and helps clear the lines, but there are guys that run without them all the time -- If it were me, and I had the choice between purging into the engine, or not purging at all, I wouldn't purge at all.

-Brian

 

[chevota]

rys:
Thanks for the info. Hmmm, I agree it would be bad under a load, but at idle?

No, I wasnt really concerned about that little bit in the solenoid. I was just thinking "technically". If people really wanted the best purge, then the original solenoid would be better than an add-on purge solenoid, plus it's free. But of course if it's not safe.....

My car is normally very soggy off the line, and an extra dose of fuel doesn't help. A freshly purged shot makes all the difference for me.

A bottle heater wouldn't work for me. One; I have a carbon fiber bottle. Two; I'm not going out to the car 1/2 hour before I drive to start the warmer for the off chance I might use it.
I have a small regulator, maybe I'll experiment.

Thanks, I appreciate your guys input on all this.

 

[Itzallstock]

Sorry to thread jack......
I will be installing s wet kit on my 1g here in a few weeks. Will a purge kit help me as well? Does anybody know if a company out there sells a purge style that has a Y fitting. I want to place it inbetween my head lights.........
-Ben

 

[rys]

Sorry to thread jack......
I will be installing s wet kit on my 1g here in a few weeks. Will a purge kit help me as well? Does anybody know if a company out there sells a purge style that has a Y fitting. I want to place it inbetween my head lights.........
-Ben

It may sound like I am kidding, but completely seriously:

Buy your purge kit. I recommend DynoTune's kit because it will already give you some of what you need, and it's cheap.

http://www.speedshop.org/store/scripts/prodView.asp?idproduct=24

Go to Home Depot, go into the plumbing section.

Look for the 1/8th" NPT hardware, and find a 1/8th" 'T' adapter (3 way), some 1/4" Plastic or Nylon tubing, and some 1/8th" NPT to 1/4" Tube compression fittings.

Add teflon paste, and you are good to go.

-Brian

 

[Itzallstock]

Is there any tips I can put on the end of the 2 holes to get a tighter pattern? Any way to get a wider one?
Thanks
Ben
PS
Have you done on yours? If you give me a pm and send some pics if you can BGW@Witek. net

 

[rys]

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You can't see where it sprays out, but the purge solenoid on the left has a 1/8th" NPT to 1/4" tube compression fitting, and then runs straight into the firewall and sprays straight up on the driver's side.

The concept is the same for anything else.

You sound like you might want:

http://www.speedshop.org/store/scripts/prodView.asp?idproduct=34

Although, I wouldn't try and run a nylon or plastic hose to that, it would probably rupture. (You would likely need a steel braided hose to hold the pressure to that sprayer tip).

-Brian